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Well unless that coil HT Lead is broke, and you haven’t missed a loose or fallen off wire somewhere,
It’s sounding like that 111 gizmo may be bad
There is probably a test for it out there somewhere on the www ,but I don’t know one!
 

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Latest update: coil voltage is good, rotor arm on distributor is rotating, as is the plate below with the 4 lugs when the engine cranks.

If I reattach the distributor, I'm going to test each HT lead to spark plug in turn (only did plug 1 to discover no spark). How can I test the HT lead from coil to distributor?

Just to add to the frustration, one of the clips which secure the distributor cap has fallen off. It looks like I'll have to release the screw which holds it in place, then re-tighten. Just not sure my hands will bend to the angle needed to get to it!

Only good news is it's tipping down with rain outside, so a good excuse to spend an afternoon indoors!
I woulld just plug one of the spark wires into the coil HT and to a spare spark plug that is grounded, and see if the 111,coil and distributor work at all, as it may be a cap/rotor/lead issue. Let us know if that gives a spark at all...
 

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Discussion Starter #63
I've connected a new spark plug wire to the coil and a grounded plug, and the plug gave a good spark. Does this just mean that the coil is working ok, rather than the ecu, or both? I'll get a new long ht lead to run in front of the radiator between coil and distributor in any case.

I feel like I'm narrowing things down. It's not the coil, maybe not the ecu, more likely distributor or leads?
 

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I've connected a new spark plug wire to the coil and a grounded plug, and the plug gave a good spark. Does this just mean that the coil is working ok, rather than the ecu, or both? I'll get a new long ht lead to run in front of the radiator between coil and distributor in any case.

I feel like I'm narrowing things down. It's not the coil, maybe not the ecu, more likely distributor or leads?
This is good! (I am a little surprised, but it is good news). Now you know the coil and the '111' and the ignition wiring are all good. You also know the 'pulse generator' winding in the distributor is working. The next step is to test the rotor/cap/king lead. So I would put the rotor in and the cap back on and see if you get a spark with your 'test rig' going into one of the distributor's spark plug connections.
 

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blimey, if after 64 postings, it turns out to be that dodgy king lead right at the beginning that was scraped by the fan!
(weren't you going to test that....?)

but somehow I think not...there is something else at play

can you show us a photo of your dizzy cap (inside) and the rotor, that might give a clue.
 

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Discussion Starter #66
This is good! (I am a little surprised, but it is good news). Now you know the coil and the '111' and the ignition wiring are all good. You also know the 'pulse generator' winding in the distributor is working. The next step is to test the rotor/cap/king lead. So I would put the rotor in and the cap back on and see if you get a spark with your 'test rig' going into one of the distributor's spark plug connections.
Would I have to do this with the old ht lead, as it's the only one which will reach the coil right now until I get the replacement (it's on the opposite side of the engine). If the old ht lead is the fault, then it wouldn't spark anyway? I'm assuming there needs to be that connection to the distributor?
 

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Would I have to do this with the old ht lead, as it's the only one which will reach the coil right now until I get the replacement (it's on the opposite side of the engine). If the old ht lead is the fault, then it wouldn't spark anyway? I'm assuming there needs to be that connection to the distributor?
I'm not convinced the king lead is the problem. I would put it all back together, and see if you get a spark to any plug. You might have inadvertantly fixed it with all the plugging and unplugging. I've done that many many times :)
 

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Discussion Starter #68
blimey, if after 64 postings, it turns out to be that dodgy king lead right at the beginning that was scraped by the fan!
(weren't you going to test that....?)

but somehow I think not...there is something else at play

can you show us a photo of your dizzy cap (inside) and the rotor, that might give a clue.
938376


938377
 

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ok, thanks
cap and rotor look good from here...look new

stick it all back, use the old long king lead and see if you get spark.
could well be just plugging/unplugging has done something.

how many wires going to that yellow plug thing on the side of the distributor, 3?
 

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OK,
I mean I am not sure how many there should be, but I would have thought two or even three!
I cannot see what one wire can do.
Obviously I am misunderstanding the particular system they've put on your car, somewhat.

I thought it would be sort of like this 'hall effect' set up
(obviously not!)
opel-corsa-4-pin-coil-wiring-diagram-22.jpg
 

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It if is the same as the GTV6, it is a 2-core balanced and shielded coble. The shield is only grounded at source, so you should only see the two balanced pins if you take the connector off. Don't take it off by the way, as we just proved all that bit works!
 

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Discussion Starter #73
Well, the saga continues...with a new twist.

I've replaced the king lead with a longer, new one. It now runs around the other side of the radiator, well away from the cooling fan. I've tested each spark plug, and there's a good spark from all 4...but still no start :confused:

As the electrics seem to be working now, I'm thinking there must be a fuel problem? Possibly a blocked fuel feed pipe or filter, a blockage in the carburettors, or maybe fuel pump? Could there be anything else?

What order would you tackle these in?

One step forward etc :(
 

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Well, the saga continues...with a new twist.

I've replaced the king lead with a longer, new one. It now runs around the other side of the radiator, well away from the cooling fan. I've tested each spark plug, and there's a good spark from all 4...but still no start :confused:

As the electrics seem to be working now, I'm thinking there must be a fuel problem? Possibly a blocked fuel feed pipe or filter, a blockage in the carburettors, or maybe fuel pump? Could there be anything else?

What order would you tackle these in?

One step forward etc :(
I feel your pain! My Dellorto carbed 1.8 needs to have the carbs primed by a hand bulb I installed if I do not drive him for three or so days. I think the standard solution is to keep cranking the engine and pumping the accelerator to pump fuel in. If you put too much fuel in, the plugs will be wet with fuel. If you get to the point that you are confident the carb. bowls are full of fuel, and the plugs are wet, and all the spark plugs are getting a spark...You have a timing problem with the distributor, which is sort what I expected from the beginning. Do you have a timing light? If not you might be better off going to a garage, as with the type of distributor you have, you can't really statically time off a bulb when the points open. Odds are the distributor is somehow stuck with too much advance, maybe the centrifugal advance or the vacuum advance mechanism has got stuck. Only after you have confirmed the carb. bowls are full of fuel, and the spark plugs are wet, I would then try to retard the ignition, but a very tiny amount in the same direction the rotor rotates, no more than about 5mm. That will allow you to diagnose the fault, but your car will not really be safe to drive at that point, so it is a last resort. It will probably require a bit of throttle to keep it to idle like this too. However, you really really need to be sure you don;t have fuel issue before you adjust the timing, as it is not easy to set it correctly.
 
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