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100% correct SS4
I would encourage moving the coil near where it should be.
 

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Just to add my halfpennies worth, the HT leads should run the other side of the thermostat housing, there is a clamp you can buy from classic alfa that keeps the leads nice and neat but there has been a lot of discussion about that clamp being to narrow for anything more than 7mm leads, this is the factory RHD version 194-2-800.jpg
938007
 

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actually on the later engines, like his S3 (and my S4) the lead tidy was moved to the cam cover. He has the lead tidy, but the lid is missing (hence the cable ties)
#14 shows how it should be
 

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Ah right, understand on the S4 with electric fans but I like to keep my HT's away from the mechanical fan, I'm sure they wouldn't be a problem but you never know...
 

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Discussion Starter #25
100% correct SS4
I would encourage moving the coil near where it should be.
If I can get things moving again with the current set up, just re-routing the ht lead as SS4 suggested I think I'll leave it where it is, so I don't need to extend/rewire the existing connections. Got my hands full as it is!!
 

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Discussion Starter #26
Check the points gap, it could have slipped and closed up too much. They seem to be able to run, but not start with a tiny gap.
My plan today was to check the points gap in the distributor, and want to check how I get to them.
Check the points gap, it could have slipped and closed up too much. They seem to be able to run, but not start with a tiny gap.
This is my next investigation planned for today. I've removed the distributor cap, rotor arm and protective cap, but don't seem to have uncovered the points. The photo here shows what I'm faced with now. Do I need to remove this to reveal the points, and if yes how is it fixed? I can't seen any screws etc, but don't want to force it.

938094


The distributor's a whole new world for me, and I'm learning loads about how they work, but I'm nervous about damaging it!
 

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ISTR that the S3 spider uses l-jetronic, which should use an analogue fuel ecu and separate spark ecu, but no points.The S4 spider uses motronic where a single ecu does spark and fuel. here is a crank trigger on the crank pulley. Why do you have carbs? I wonder where the spark ECU is. The distributor is the reluctor type which I think must be run with an ECU. Look for a small BOSCH black box. Maybe a loose wire near that?
 

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Discussion Starter #28
ISTR that the S3 spider uses l-jetronic, which should use an analogue fuel ecu and separate spark ecu, but no points.The S4 spider uses motronic where a single ecu does spark and fuel. here is a crank trigger on the crank pulley. Why do you have carbs? I wonder where the spark ECU is. The distributor is the reluctor type which I think must be run with an ECU. Look for a small BOSCH black box. Maybe a loose wire near that?
Hmmm. I found this old thread:
S3 Electronic distributor specs

and the photos look the same as mine. There's no Bosch black box obvious - how small are we talking - could it be tucked underneath something?
 

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that all there is inside your distributor?
you must have pulled off something else apart from the cap:)

if there is a black box, just follow the wires from the little black plastic gizmo wedged on the side of the distributor, that you can see in the photo
 

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Discussion Starter #32
that all there is inside your distributor?
you must have pulled off something else apart from the cap:)

if there is a black box, just follow the wires from the little black plastic gizmo wedged on the side of the distributor, that you can see in the photo
There was a rotor arm and a protective cap - then this. the four metal pieces on the outside are magnetised, which I'm assuming create the charge when the metal lugs on the wheel pass by. Nothing else in there.
This is the L-Jetronic version on the GTV6 circa 1981-1986.
View attachment 938096
I've been looking near the distributor, I'll check around closer to the coil, and follow the wires as SS4 suggests.
 

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Discussion Starter #33
Here's what I've found bolted onto a plate immediately below the coil. Sorry it's not the clearest picture, but the white piece in the circle definitely has Bosch written on it.
938116


So my next question is, how can I test to see if this is working? And, is there also a fuse which serves the L-jetronic system which I can check?
 

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I doubt you can test it.
What's the number written on it?
looks like 0 227 100 111 ?
seems to be an ignition module (for a GTV6)
on BB one guy says: "The 111 is a "smart" module and it modulates the dwell angle and coil current to keep the average current below 0.7 amps. "
IGN amp.jpg

But what I would do, because it looks chewed up, is remove the plug going to it (there is a spring clip in a groove that prevents it coming off, remove the clip and catch it it might fly!) and clean and check the connections.
check the wires to the piece/plug on the distributor as well

what you have is this, except you have the 4 cyl version:
I know v. little about it, tbh.
Intermittent Cranks but Doesn't Start
 

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On your new lead assembly, there's also a smaller round rubber cover on the distributor end, with all five HT leads passing through it. It's designed to push onto the plastic distributor shroud shown in this picture. The shroud is in two halves (a bit like an Easter egg), is held on with two wire clips, and is missing from almost every Alfanord engine...

938120
 

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If you have a fixed advanced distributor and no means of advancing the ignition, you are going to have a real hard time starting the car. Has it been converted to carbs by the way?
 

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Discussion Starter #37
On your new lead assembly, there's also a smaller round rubber cover on the distributor end, with all five HT leads passing through it. It's designed to push onto the plastic distributor shroud shown in this picture. The shroud is in two halves (a bit like an Easter egg), is held on with two wire clips, and is missing from almost every Alfanord engine...

View attachment 938120
I have half the shroud still - it was attached by cable tie around the distributor cap. I always thought it was there to protect from engine heat but looking at the photo of a complete shroud, ans the rubber cover fit it's probably more to keep moisture out??
 

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Discussion Starter #38
If you have a fixed advanced distributor and no means of advancing the ignition, you are going to have a real hard time starting the car. Has it been converted to carbs by the way?
Really don't know about any conversion in the past. I've owned the car for 10 years, and other than replacing the carb's I've never changed the set up. Being an Alfa there have been multiple "issues" over the years, but it's never had a problem like this.
What is it about this set up which will make it so hard to fix, and any suggestions for how to go about it?
 

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I have half the shroud still - it was attached by cable tie around the distributor cap. I always thought it was there to protect from engine heat but looking at the photo of a complete shroud, ans the rubber cover fit it's probably more to keep moisture out??
Yes, you're right. The engineers of the Alfanord engine were seemingly concerned that the distributor's position made it rather too vulnerable to water ingress in wet conditions, so the shroud was added - maybe as a bit of an afterthought. Swings and roundabouts though, as it helps keep moisture in as well as out.

I suspect that a lot of owners don't even know that their car used to have this shroud, and most of the remainder prefer to leave it off for ease of maintenance.

I've run my Alfetta without one for thirty years, with no ill effects so far....
 

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Really don't know about any conversion in the past. I've owned the car for 10 years, and other than replacing the carb's I've never changed the set up. Being an Alfa there have been multiple "issues" over the years, but it's never had a problem like this.
What is it about this set up which will make it so hard to fix, and any suggestions for how to go about it?
As Spiderserie4 says you have a "0 227 100 111" ign amp, which is supposed to go with a distributor with built in advance curve. The " 0 227 100 100" is basically just a transistor switch, with the dwell timing done by the ECU. I guess your distributor must have advance weights in it, but I've never seen a non-points distributor that isn't fixed advanced, so thats a new one. What does the wiring diagram in your handbook say about it ?
 
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