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Hi All can anyone tell me where to find the fuse box that has the fuse for the airbag also does this fuse operate the internal and boot light
spider 916 ph2
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That depends on when your car was built.
Pre 2000, the fuse is on the auxiliary fuse bracket between the main fuse box and the ignition switch. It's a 10A fuse in a red holder.
Post 2000, there is an auxiliary fuse box with 6 fuses in the same area. Again a 10A fuse second in from one end adjacent to a 7.5A fuse.
Pre 2000, the fuse is on the auxiliary fuse bracket between the main fuse box and the ignition switch. It's a 10A fuse in a red holder.
Post 2000, there is an auxiliary fuse box with 6 fuses in the same area. Again a 10A fuse second in from one end adjacent to a 7.5A fuse.
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You are mistaken
The Spider you are referring to is the Nuovo Spider (946) that was produced from 2006
The one under discussion is the 916 model that was produced from 1995 - 2005
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Thanks PKR just found the one's you are on about unfortunately they are all good, do you know if the LED's can blow on the dash as ive got no oil light and the NS door a jar is only half lit ive checked the oil switch with a new one and still no go,You are mistaken
The Spider you are referring to is the Nuovo Spider (946) that was produced from 2006
The one under discussion is the 916 model that was produced from 1995 - 2005
They're unlikely to blow - they generally have a life of many 10s of thousands of hours.
Not unknown for previous owners or dodgy garages to cut the LED out of the instrument pack rather than fix the actual problem ...
The oil w/l is on a different connector at the instrument pack to the airbag & door warning light so no commonality there ( loose connector? ).
For the door w/l, it could be an early indicator that the switch in the door lock is failing. Maybe.
I'd open up the instrument pack to have a look. Maybe some idiot snipped the oil LED thinking it was the airbag LED and then snipped the airbag LED as well!
Easy to do. Unscrew the two allen bolts holding the instument pack ( you can see them at the top of the pack ). Fully lower and fully pull the steering wheel towards the seats on its adjuster. Ease the instrument pack out and undo the two connectors at the bottom ( one white, one green ). The cables may be hooked to plastic clips on the rear so slide them out and the pack will then come free.
Undo two screws in the plastic cover at the back and remove the cover by easing off the plastic clips.
Undo the five screws holding in the PCB. Ease the PCB out gently - the speedo and rev counter connect to the PCB by pins passing through the board. They'll come free with gentle easing.
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You'ld be surprised at what people do in cars. I've had my Spider for over two years now and I think I've just about sorted out where all odd screws and fastenings I found in it actually fit.
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Thanks for all your info been having a look at the instrument panel, took it all apart I mean everything and removed the centre legend and found some one had put black tape over the airbag led hole
and it also covered half the passenger door open light, what sort of people do these things???
also found the problem with the interior light it was the connection in the drivers door locking mech,
just one thing to sort out now the oil light don't come on any ideas from you guy's
thanks for all the forum people you all make it a pleasure as im a new alfa owner,
OK, good result so far.
To test your oil light :
The green connector on the instrument pack is an 18 pin connector.
You want pin 10. Looking at the wire side of the connector and the locking clip upwards you have pins 1 through 8 on the top row going RIGHT to LEFT(!) and 9 to 18 on the bottom row also going right to left.
So, first double check -
pin 1 ( top right ) should have a wire coloured black
pin 8 ( top left ) = white
pin 9 ( bottom right ) should have no wire
pin 18 ( bottom left ) should have no wire
pin 10 bottom row, second from right should have a Grey/Black wire. And as a further precaution, pin 11 is Grey/Yellow!
Now, get a piece of wire and strip a bit of insulator off each end. Twist the ends to prevent loose strands.
Hold one end to a earth e.g. cigarette lighter body or any bit of unpainted metal on the car body, turn on the ignition and push the other end of your wire carefully into pin 10 of the connector ( obviously still plugged into the instrument pack! ). Ensure no stray strands touch adjacent pins!
If the oil light LED is good, and everything else about the instrument pack is also good, the oil w/l will now light up.
If that checks out, the wiring up to the pressure switch can be checked next.
To test your oil light :
The green connector on the instrument pack is an 18 pin connector.
You want pin 10. Looking at the wire side of the connector and the locking clip upwards you have pins 1 through 8 on the top row going RIGHT to LEFT(!) and 9 to 18 on the bottom row also going right to left.
So, first double check -
pin 1 ( top right ) should have a wire coloured black
pin 8 ( top left ) = white
pin 9 ( bottom right ) should have no wire
pin 18 ( bottom left ) should have no wire
pin 10 bottom row, second from right should have a Grey/Black wire. And as a further precaution, pin 11 is Grey/Yellow!
Now, get a piece of wire and strip a bit of insulator off each end. Twist the ends to prevent loose strands.
Hold one end to a earth e.g. cigarette lighter body or any bit of unpainted metal on the car body, turn on the ignition and push the other end of your wire carefully into pin 10 of the connector ( obviously still plugged into the instrument pack! ). Ensure no stray strands touch adjacent pins!
If the oil light LED is good, and everything else about the instrument pack is also good, the oil w/l will now light up.
If that checks out, the wiring up to the pressure switch can be checked next.
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Done the check how you said but no didn't work had a few other checks and still came up with no go, so now going to fit a oil pressure gauge hopefully it will fit into the middle one of the round heater vents so I don't have to drill holes or do any unsightly mounting of pods
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OK, I can come up with some further tests for you to establish what's wrong.
Won't be tonight though!
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that's not a problem all info is great thanks
With the circuit board out and top surface up, set the multimeter to ohms.
You'll see the 4 LEDS in the rev counter forming an arc at the bottom right. Each LED has two legs and they're all aligned the same way. When I refer to the bottom leg, that's the leg closer to the bottom edge of the board with the two connectors and vice versa.
The 4 LEDs, starting with the one closest to the green connector are the battery, oil, CODE and engine fault lights.
1. Put one probe on the bottom pin of the oil w/l and the other probe on the bottom pin of the engine fault w/l or CODE light ( doesn't matter which ). You should see a resistance of about 1000 Ohms ( 1K ).
If you get 1k, it shows that the anode of the LED is getting it's +12v supply. The reason for the 1K resistance is that the current limit resistors are between the +12v supply and the LED's anode ( contrary to the way it's shown in the workshop manual! ). You get 1K because you're measuring 2 parallel pairs of resistors each with a value of 1K ( so each parallel pair equates to 500 Ohms resistance and there are two pairs between the probes so you get a total resistance of 1K ). Anyway, 1K measured is good.
2. Measure the resistance between the two legs of the oil w/l. You should get a resistance of 240 Ohms. This is because each LED has a 240R resistor in parallel with the LED. This is a delayed switch on feature.
3. Touch one MM probe to pin 10 of the green connector ( bottom row of pins in the green connector, second from right ) and the other probe to the upper pin of the oil w/l. You should get little or no resistance. This means the cathode of the LED is connected to pin 10 of the green connector ( good ).
If all those tests are good, the circuit board is good. That leaves two areas for the fault -
a) failed LED
b) wiring problem
With the instrument pack out of the car, you can check for a wiring fault easily.
With your multimeter, measure for resistance between pin 10 of the green plug in the car and ground. Here you're testing the wiring and the oil pressure switch. If both are good, you should see a resistance of zero Ohms ( or near enough! ). With the engine off, the oil pressure switch should be switching the LED to earth.
If all those tests are OK, it may be the LED that is at fault. Unfortunately, owing to that 240R resistor, it's a bit difficult testing the LED in circuit. I'll have to think of a way of testing that.
You'll see the 4 LEDS in the rev counter forming an arc at the bottom right. Each LED has two legs and they're all aligned the same way. When I refer to the bottom leg, that's the leg closer to the bottom edge of the board with the two connectors and vice versa.
The 4 LEDs, starting with the one closest to the green connector are the battery, oil, CODE and engine fault lights.
1. Put one probe on the bottom pin of the oil w/l and the other probe on the bottom pin of the engine fault w/l or CODE light ( doesn't matter which ). You should see a resistance of about 1000 Ohms ( 1K ).
If you get 1k, it shows that the anode of the LED is getting it's +12v supply. The reason for the 1K resistance is that the current limit resistors are between the +12v supply and the LED's anode ( contrary to the way it's shown in the workshop manual! ). You get 1K because you're measuring 2 parallel pairs of resistors each with a value of 1K ( so each parallel pair equates to 500 Ohms resistance and there are two pairs between the probes so you get a total resistance of 1K ). Anyway, 1K measured is good.
2. Measure the resistance between the two legs of the oil w/l. You should get a resistance of 240 Ohms. This is because each LED has a 240R resistor in parallel with the LED. This is a delayed switch on feature.
3. Touch one MM probe to pin 10 of the green connector ( bottom row of pins in the green connector, second from right ) and the other probe to the upper pin of the oil w/l. You should get little or no resistance. This means the cathode of the LED is connected to pin 10 of the green connector ( good ).
If all those tests are good, the circuit board is good. That leaves two areas for the fault -
a) failed LED
b) wiring problem
With the instrument pack out of the car, you can check for a wiring fault easily.
With your multimeter, measure for resistance between pin 10 of the green plug in the car and ground. Here you're testing the wiring and the oil pressure switch. If both are good, you should see a resistance of zero Ohms ( or near enough! ). With the engine off, the oil pressure switch should be switching the LED to earth.
If all those tests are OK, it may be the LED that is at fault. Unfortunately, owing to that 240R resistor, it's a bit difficult testing the LED in circuit. I'll have to think of a way of testing that.
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