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Discussion Starter #1
I am a First timer and have just spent 6 months stripping down, cleaning,, polishing and rebuilding the body of my 1750 kamm tail spider. i about to take engine out and give it the once over. Apart from all gaskets, seals, top and bottom timing chains and clutch should I be looking at renewing anythinge else. it is good fun however, I will admit I do not know my elbow from my bottom regions. dealer tells me car is a rare one and looks great.
 

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I'd certainly consider changing all the coolant hoses. New engine mounts and possibly gearbox mount as well. It might be worth putting in a new reversing light switch - they do fail and it is a gearbox out job to put a new one in. A new oil pump would be a good idea but they are rare and expensive. It might be worth doing the water pump but I don't know how difficult they are to replace while in situ.
 

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For what they cost, change the water pump. It's a bit of a pig to change in the car because the front pulley needs to come off. Also have a look at the bush in the back of the crank.
 
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slippery slope, this...if engine was out, I'd consider changing the rubber carb mounts, servicing the starter, and might even look into whether the head gasket and related seals are long for this world. All of the above easier to do with engine/gearbox out of the car.
Then there is detailing the engine compartment....and so on...and so on.
 

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Reverse light switch in bellhousing! I agree with this one from Cosmo! Just chuck it and put in a new one to be sure!
Plus if engine and g/box is out, the rear crankshaft oil seal should be checked. Whilst you are at it the clutch itself and thrust bearing.

I take it the engine was running well before you removed it, good oil pressure etc, good compression on all cylinders (5-10% max difference between cylinders is ok), no big end knock?? Man, there are so many things one should check whilst the engine and box are out....all the jobs are so much easier this way!
If you take off the head then check the protudance of the liners above the head...............in fact may i recommend a full strip down? It is a great thing to do, the engines are so beautifully put together it makes it almost fun to do!.....almost, I said!
 

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Discussion Starter #6
got engine out. cleaned everything up and changed all hoses, gaskets, seals and water pump. Now put it together and just finished putting it back in. Have no oil pressure. Oil in top end and when turning the key oil comes out the top of the oil filter in surps when I take the sensor off therefore, oil pump working. Earthed the oild pressure gauge and oil light both working. Any clues before I have to take everything out again?

Thanks Guy
 

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I am presuming it had oil pressure before you started, ie that the oil pressure guage was working? You did reconnect the oil pressure sender wire (I presume it is an electric guage and not the old direct oil pipe to the oil pressure guage like on the 60's cars?)---what exactly did you dismantle on the engine and what gaskets did you replace?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Yes the oil pressure gauge was working ok and registered a healthy oil reading. I have taken the engine down to many bits, sump, crank, pistones, timing chains, the list goes on.

Yes I have connected the sender wire however, I think what I have done is sealed a oil run that must run up through the head gasket to the cam because it is the cam that has no oil. I have also noticed the generator light is on when the engine is off and off when running therefore, I think i have put a wire back wrong
 

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For a first timer you seem to have taken the engine to bits! Well done there!

Yes you have to be a bit wary with new head gaskets that they have ALL the holes corresponding to the oil and water channel holes in the head and block! I sure hope it is not this, as you will have to undo it all again.

Does oil come out of the oil sender hole if you remove it and turn her over?

I guess you started the car, then switched it off quickly when saw there was no oil pressure? (I always turn her over without sparkplugs and the HT removed, after a rebuild, as this has far less stress on the moving parts) You will have to turn it over a fair bit if you didn't prime all the oil holes before fitting crank, bearings, cams etc, and I think more importantly you also have to prime the oil pump (somebody correct me if i am wrong????) Certainly you have to prime jaguar oilpumps (I had to on the old MK IX Jag, as without a prime they dont suck up the oil in the sump! Hey presto no oil pressure!)

As for the generator light on with engine off, that is a new one to me. Really sounds like a switched wire somewhere.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I did not prime the pump!!!!!!!! can I get the pump out by entering via the sump rather than taking the whole engine out again.

I have had a great time although this fault is becoming very frustrating and I want to take the wife out nex weekend in it. I have found that as long as I take bits out logically and lay the out in order nothing is over taxing although I think I have just been a little hypocritcal.

Another problem is the horn. It seems the cable for the horn goes straight down the steering column through the steering box and to a connector on the bulk head. This is going to be fun to make work!

Guy
 

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Every time you change the oil the pump drains and it takes a few seconds to fill everything up including the new (empty) filter.

I usually turn the engine over with the coil disconnected for 20 seconds or so before trying to start the engine. This will prime the pump. Reconnect the coil then fire it up. DON'T rev the engine. Allow it to idle, within 20 seconds or so depending on the engine type the oil pressure light should go out and the gauge will slowly creep up to normal level. At the same time, you'll notice that the mechanical noise of the engine drops. You can actually hear this happen! This is the oil pressure reaching the bearing surfaces. It's very important NOT to rev the engine unless there's healthy looking pressure and even then no further than 2-3000 rpm until it's properly warm.

Allow the engine to idle for a few minutes to get oil all around it then switch off. Have a cup of tea. Now check the oil level again and top it up. You'll have to do this because the filter and galleries take a pint or so to fill.

If you've followed these steps and still don't have oil pressure then you'll need to find out why.

And yes, the horn wire does do through the column and out the end of the box but it is (just) possible to thread a new one through. It's not fun though.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Hi,

engine back in, horn reconnected via the steering column however! I can balance the solex carbs whilst running fast however, when I try to adjust the timing to idle correctly the carbs go to bits. There is a spark, I have got the timing right and fuel is getting to the carbs correctly, yes the plugs are sparking. Any clues before this thing drives me up the wall. I cannot afford new webbers just yet.
 

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So you have oil pressure now?

First you need to establish a "base" setting for the carbs. Turn all the idle mixture screw fully in (gently) then undo them all 2 or 3 full turns. Set the points to the correct gap and the ignition timing to the factory setting for idle (using the "fixed" mark on the pulley) then start the engine. Set the throttle stop screw so that the car idles at around 800-1000 rpm when hot.

Stating with number one idle mixture screw, unscrew it slightly, if the idle speeds up, keep going. If it slows down, screw it in. The object is to get the fastest idle possible. Now repeat with the other three idle screws. By this time, the engine should be racing a little bit so unscrew the throttle stop until you're back to 800-1000 rpm.

Now have another twiddle with the idle mixture screws to see if you can make any further improvements in the idle speed. Adjust the throttle stop as necessary.

Check your ignition timing with the strobe at idle. Adjust as necessary.

Finally, check the ignition timing meets the "maximum advance" mark on the pulley with the engine at higher speeds.

If this doesn't work then you have something fundamentally wrong somewhere, either air leaking in through a split vacuum pipe, split carburettor mount, throttle spindle (not unknown with Solex carbs) or a badly worn distributor.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
thank you I will set to it when I get home from work tonight. Think of me in my garage in the early hours fiddling with mixture screws!!! I am determined to take the wife away this weekend in it with the hood down attempting to blow all the oil out my hair and off my hands and arms. i suspect I am the oiliest new boy on the block.

Guy
 

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Guy,

The world wide sales for Kamm Tail Spiders with 1750 engine is

105.62 type “coda tronca”

1970 – 1426

1971 – 1211

1972 – 7

This comes from

Marco Fazio

Tel. +39 02 444 29 115

Mob +39 334 62 95 381

Fax +39 02 444 28 152

[email protected]



Automobilismo Storico Alfa Romeo

Centro Direzionale

Viale Alfa Romeo

20020 Arese (MI) Italy

I hope that make you feel it is all worth while
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I had put too much oil in therefore, took a litre out. Also I had to change the two sender units. The light was easy the gauge was a swine. The Solex carbs do not sound that good however, they will do until I can afford a couple of webbers.

Guy
 

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Discussion Starter #19
yes I have however, just tried to upload but cannot for some reason when I have a little more time I will investigate why.

Guy
 
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