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Hi guys and girls noobie here. Sorry to Bi*&h on my first post but need to sort this asap...

146 T.Spark 1.8 2000 had it 2 weeks, Had problems starting, some erratic revving, gutless performance till 3000 rpm. (never starts first time, but key code light goes out immediatly, injector lights a little slow but do go out within 3 seconds, when driving no warning lights show)

Had a closer look found an aftificial earth coming from the MAF sensor to the neg of the battery (think its an earth?). Tried to use diagnostics (snap on if thats any help) but wont recognise ECU, my mate reckons this is because the MAF sensor in knackered and stopping the ECU from being recognised. Im not convinced that this is the case but im also not an expert by any stretch of the word.

My mate did a test on the MAF itself which did work and the graph showed a very spiky curve, he said that the line that represents the mass air flow shound be perfectly straight at idle and a smooth curve when revving.

I was planning to clean the MAF and if that doesnt work replace it. I have seen a few step by step guides but still cant figure out exactly how to clean or replace the MAF. Also would a dodgy MAF cause the diagnostics stop working?!? or is that a seperate headache?

Its a lovely car otherwise and would really hate to have to get rid so soon, any help would be greatly appreciated.
 

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Hello and Welcome !! :)

Post your problem in the appropriate lounge dude and someone will help you out I'm sure !! ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #4
lol, Sorry for posting in the wrong place, was 5 in the morning!!! Thnaks for the heads up. Cheers
 

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Hi, hope you get your car fixed soon :)
 
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welcome to AO dude....

heres how to give the MAF a clean

Remove the MAF - undo the metal clips with a pair of small pliers or lever off with small screwdriver, undo the cable tie which keeps the connector cable tidy to the air duct.and then the connector remove the MAF.

There are 2 TX secrurits screws that clamps the sensor to the MAF body...these can be undone with pliers as they are not to tight.

Pull the sensor head out and stick the MAF body a bowl of luke warm water and slosh about...use a sponge to clean the inside of the MAF body but do not touch the Mesh. then put back in the bowl and leave for about 20 Mins...

To clean the sensor head you need anti-static cleaner from Maplin or any radio hobby store..

Spray liberally all over the head......

You will see a channel in the sensor head, and will notice a wire running inside....you can clean this with a cotton swab with cleaner applied.....don't go to mad just apply gentle pressure.

At the side of the sensor is a metal plate within another channel...you can clean this using the cleaner and some tissue, wedge it in the grove and slide in and out....you can use a small screwdriver to exert more pressure to clean the plate and the edges.

The sensor heads..electonics is sealed so don’t worry too much...but still be careful.

When this is done....rinse the sensor head under luke warm running water from the tap and just cover the top part of the head where you have cleaned...

when done remove the MAF body that was soaking, test the mesh for cleanness with a cotton swab, if still dirty use the anti-static cleaner to clean more..and re wash in luke warm water.

Lay both the sensor and the MAF body...on a tea towel on a radiator to dry ...

Re-Fit the MAF all back together and put back on the car.





:)
 

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Discussion Starter #10
thanks for the warm welcome everyone, had the maf out gave it a clean. car idles better but still wont start first time. Gonna check the wiring on the artificial earth and maf connecter see if that helps. Found an oil leak too. only a small one but would like to get it sorted. had a look seems to be coming from the dipstick!!! right where the dipstick connects to the engin at the bottom.... couldnt believe my eyes but that was the highest i saw oil...unless something higher is leaking onto the dipstick.....
 

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Hi and welcome, dipstick o-ring seal thing is a known problem available for pennies but tricky to fit due to the way the stick goes up through the exhaust manifold & think you've gotta be looking at the MAF although do check the lambda as well ;)
 

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Thanks for the advice.Did a check (disconnected) the MAF and cleaned, car idles better but is stell gutless until 3000 rpm. Do i get a new MAF? How do i test the lambda? just read a thread and said there was 3 lambdas in total?!? also wanted to use diagnostics with my 2000 1.8 t.s. What software and connection do i need?

Also is there anything above the O ring on the dipstick that could leak or is this the most probable cause for the oil leak

Many thanks again for all the advice.
 

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not familiar with the 2000 1.8's, assume it'll be CF3 engine which has lambda's in the down pipes, again assuming they will be standard 4 wire jobbies which you can test with a multi meter, iirc you are looking for 4 ohms across the heater wires and the same for the third which has a connector on the bulkhead behind the engine, may be under a black plastic cover....
 

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THANKS FOR ALL THE ADVICE GUYS, HAS BEEN VERY,VERY HELPFUL!!!!! Mechanic said it will be the O ring aswell, common problem as u guys said so CHEEEEERS!

Right .... tested (disconnected) and cleaned the maf, idle became better...

Had the throttle body off, was very very dirty! There was alot of gung coming into the air intake pipe from a thinner short pipe coming from the engine located between the MAF and the throttle body. Cleaned this also but am worried about this gunk and oil in the air flow path?!? Cleaned it and oiled the butterfly on the throttle body and again the idle became better after a quick throttle reset. Idle is better but is still a bit lumpy and fluctuates a little bit, never seems to settle and theere is not much get up and go at low revs.

Had a diagnostic done (BEFOR CLEANING THROTTLE BODY BUT AFTER CLEANING MAF) and the following errors were found:

P0130 - OXYGEN SENSOR OPEN CIRCUIT

P0100 - AIR MASS SENSOR BELOW LOWER LIMIT

PO110 - IAT SENSOR OPEN CIRCUIT/POSITIVE SHORT

P01511 - IDLE ACTUATOR THROTTLE POTENTIOMETER OPEN CIRCUIT/POSITIVE SHORT

P0120 - THROTTLE VALVE POTENTIOMETER OPEN CIRCUIT/POSITIVE SHORT

P0115 - COOLANT TEMOPERATURE SENSOR

Mechanic says that Coolant temp sensor needs replacing, then he wants to reset the ECU. He never mentioned the throttle idle actuator or potentiometer, O2 sensor, of the maf...

Errors have come up for these other components am i wrong to think that they all need attention or replacing?

Also there is an artificial ground coming from the maf, havent had a chance to investigate too much but could this cause the ecu to get improper readings?
 

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Hi Sparkz, welcome, as you can see this is a great site with great people:D Hope you stay and enjoy it. Cheers:)
 
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