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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I think it's about time I treated the old shed to a fresh set of plugs. Anybody got any recommendations for a V6 12 valve? I know they used to always like Lodge plugs, but I don't think they're easily available any more now.
 
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Most people list NGK Which are fitted as standard in the 24v a different No. In the 12v not sure if its just a temp difference though? Good plugs .
 

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Check the on-line NGK application chart and choose platinum over iridium. I cannot remember which version I ended up with but they work just fine. I will check back if needed.
 

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Mine was running NGK BPR6E then I changed to BPR6ES. Have a feeling the former were running to hot although cannot remember precisely. These ones are fine however. Looked for Golden Lodge and failed to find anything suitable
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks all. I'm on NGK BP6E at present. Might have a go at some platinum ones. Anybody tried the Bosch ones?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
It just sounds so gooooood! (You'll understand...)!

Before I "saw the light" as it were, I had a string of big French cars. Clever cars in many ways - and I do miss the ride when I'm feeling lazy, but the engines really were painful. They'd redline at 5 or 5.5k but you just knew you'd never get there. A tacho on a big Citroen must be the next most useless accessory after the proverbial ashtray on a motorbike. By 4k it would want another gear, and by 4.5k, you'd just be going backwards and making a lot of noise. My mum used to say that a thoroughbred horse would gallop until it burst if you asked it to. Alfa engines (and the Busso in particular) are thoroughbreds under that definition!
 

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Always used NGK in my various 12v motors, including the supercharged one. Never any bother with sparks. BPR is fine if you can't find the non-resistor version or they happen to be more expensive.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Ta Chris. I've never had a problem with misfires, pinking or anything ignition -related either, EXCEPT very rarely (it's happened twice now) it (within the space of 50 miles or so) starts missing and coughing and then completely trashes its rotor arm (and cap on one occasion). Absolutely trashed - (Rotor arm was a blob of charred yuk on the top of the shaft)! I've not had that on this car, but about once every 100,000 miles, the last one did it. Now OK, I don't really begrudge it a new cap and arm every 100k, but it surprised me how quickly this happened.
 
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