Although I'm not totally up on the Alfa system I have done audio installs on many other cars in the past so will offer some more generic advice.
I've not heard of the Alpine Power Pack, but from your description it sounds like a small in-line amp used for component speakers. Depending on its wiring methods and size you may find it won't fit behind the head unit in the dash, there is very rarely much space behind there. Generally amps are mounted in the boot of a vehicle, for space reasons but mainly because the boot is generally cooler than the rest of the car which allows the amps to work without overheating. If it simply a plug-and-play amp that connects directly into the head unit wiring you may find some space behind the glove box and this will probably be the best area to mount it.
Your front components and crossovers are an easy install despite how complicated it first looks. The crossover receives a signal from the head unit, and then splits this signal into 2 - one for the large speaker and one for the tweeter. The only original wiring you should use (if any) is the feed into the crossover, the wiring out of the crossover should be made up by you using the contents of the kit. Mounting of the actual crossover unit is dependant on the space available in the door, but generally I've mounted them on the external door skin using double sided tape. With the door card removed check where the window sits when it is lowered, and try and mount the crossover underneath the window. A little bit of cling film over the top of the crossover unit will keep any errant water out of there.
Setting up the head unit for the front components is easy - you don't have to change anything. The crossover unit that comes with the speakers does all the signal splitting for you, ensuring the speakers only get the frequencies they can cope with.
Speaker cabling - there are soooo many myths here it is unreal, so to dispel the biggest of them I'll say this - most speaker cabling and connectors are of exactly the same quality. You can pay twice the price for thicker gold plated cabling and connectors, but in a road vehicle running a medium grade install and used at a reasonable listening volume, you will never notice any difference in quality. My advice is to use as much of the original speaker wiring as possible. Having done a few complete installs I have to say that replacing the speaker wiring was always the hardest part of the job!! Passing the cables through doors, fixing it all down, connectors, so many problems for absolutely no quality gain at all.
Your sub - a sub works by moving massive amounts of air. Therefore it should be mounted in a position where there is enough air to move - the rear of the back seats is an ideal place as you have a boot full of air to move. This only applies to sealed sub enclosures, as ported enclosures work in a slightly different way but that's nothing to worry about in this case.
When connecting the wiring from the head unit to the sub/amp there are a few things that you should follow - always try to avoid the phono leads alongside anything that carries power. The phono leads carry a very low power signal and are very prone to interference, and there isn't much people can do to stop it. Don't be drawn in to more expensive leads with magnetic interference protection and gold plated connectors - they do not help!! Keep your phono leads apart from other leads, and only cross other leads at a 90degree angle.
There will probably also be settings on the head units for your sub-out (the phono leads that take the signal from the head unit to the subs amp), be sure to set these settings up, as sometimes the amp won't even switch on without these settings.
Hopefully this has helped you some, and not just made it more confusing!
Mark
I've not heard of the Alpine Power Pack, but from your description it sounds like a small in-line amp used for component speakers. Depending on its wiring methods and size you may find it won't fit behind the head unit in the dash, there is very rarely much space behind there. Generally amps are mounted in the boot of a vehicle, for space reasons but mainly because the boot is generally cooler than the rest of the car which allows the amps to work without overheating. If it simply a plug-and-play amp that connects directly into the head unit wiring you may find some space behind the glove box and this will probably be the best area to mount it.
Your front components and crossovers are an easy install despite how complicated it first looks. The crossover receives a signal from the head unit, and then splits this signal into 2 - one for the large speaker and one for the tweeter. The only original wiring you should use (if any) is the feed into the crossover, the wiring out of the crossover should be made up by you using the contents of the kit. Mounting of the actual crossover unit is dependant on the space available in the door, but generally I've mounted them on the external door skin using double sided tape. With the door card removed check where the window sits when it is lowered, and try and mount the crossover underneath the window. A little bit of cling film over the top of the crossover unit will keep any errant water out of there.
Setting up the head unit for the front components is easy - you don't have to change anything. The crossover unit that comes with the speakers does all the signal splitting for you, ensuring the speakers only get the frequencies they can cope with.
Speaker cabling - there are soooo many myths here it is unreal, so to dispel the biggest of them I'll say this - most speaker cabling and connectors are of exactly the same quality. You can pay twice the price for thicker gold plated cabling and connectors, but in a road vehicle running a medium grade install and used at a reasonable listening volume, you will never notice any difference in quality. My advice is to use as much of the original speaker wiring as possible. Having done a few complete installs I have to say that replacing the speaker wiring was always the hardest part of the job!! Passing the cables through doors, fixing it all down, connectors, so many problems for absolutely no quality gain at all.
Your sub - a sub works by moving massive amounts of air. Therefore it should be mounted in a position where there is enough air to move - the rear of the back seats is an ideal place as you have a boot full of air to move. This only applies to sealed sub enclosures, as ported enclosures work in a slightly different way but that's nothing to worry about in this case.
When connecting the wiring from the head unit to the sub/amp there are a few things that you should follow - always try to avoid the phono leads alongside anything that carries power. The phono leads carry a very low power signal and are very prone to interference, and there isn't much people can do to stop it. Don't be drawn in to more expensive leads with magnetic interference protection and gold plated connectors - they do not help!! Keep your phono leads apart from other leads, and only cross other leads at a 90degree angle.
There will probably also be settings on the head units for your sub-out (the phono leads that take the signal from the head unit to the subs amp), be sure to set these settings up, as sometimes the amp won't even switch on without these settings.
Hopefully this has helped you some, and not just made it more confusing!
Mark
hehe..
