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We still do have a problem, sometimes the hood will fold faultlessly, other time it wont, it seems to be the opening cycle, once opened it will close OK. Now with the gas struts replaced we will get our Alfa specialist who has got it working in the past to take a look. We will ask him why he didnt suggest changing the gas struts to us.
 

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Just had two new flap motors fitted, with the help now of the new struts the hood is as good as new. Motors are becoming hard to source, we're going to buy another 2 and stash them away.
 

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Just had two new flap motors fitted, with the help now of the new struts the hood is as good as new. Motors are becoming hard to source, we're going to buy another 2 and stash them away.
On a previous post on this thread by yerbamateo he tells you how to refurbish flap motors when I had mine done the garage gave me my old ones back so I intend to have a go at them, nothing to loose.
Don't Know weather they gave you yours back? or its to late to ask them for the motors if they didn't? but know harm in trying.
The poster yerbamateo really seems to know his stuff and goes into great depths explaining the does and don'ts of the process.
 

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On a previous post on this thread by yerbamateo he tells you how to refurbish flap motors when I had mine done the garage gave me my old ones back so I intend to have a go at them, nothing to loose.
Don't Know weather they gave you yours back? or its to late to ask them for the motors if they didn't? but know harm in trying.
The poster yerbamateo really seems to know his stuff and goes into great depths explaining the does and don'ts of the process.
Indeed, I salvaged mine too!
 

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Hi, I am looking to replace the gas struts on my 2009 Alfa Spider 939..I contacted SGS to order parts but they said they need exact sizes. I can't remove them and would prefer a mechanic to remove and replace at the same time. Does anyone have either the exact part number for both sizes of strut or the exact dimensions to allow SGS to manufacture them. Thanks in advance
 

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Hi, I am looking to replace the gas struts on my 2009 Alfa Spider 939..I contacted SGS to order parts but they said they need exact sizes. I can't remove them and would prefer a mechanic to remove and replace at the same time. Does anyone have either the exact part number for both sizes of strut or the exact dimensions to allow SGS to manufacture them. Thanks in advance
These are the ones you need. The OEM part numbers bring them up on their site

https://www.sgs-engineering.com/gsc3104-alfa-romeo-brera-roof-strut

https://www.sgs-engineering.com/gsc3103-alfa-romeo-brera-roof-strut
 

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Confirmed - roof fixed!!!

Hi,

I was gonna open a new thread, but found this one describing exactly what I did today, so let me expand a little and give my thumbs up.

My 2007 Spider had two typical roof issues - rear window getting stuck on plastic embellishment of head hoops and arc corner sometimes slightly popping up after closure.
Both issues are solved, changing 2+2 gas struts inside the hood. Mine were totally shot, just as I suspect most of them are after couple of years (keep reading why).

First pair, upper one, rated at 100N, which seems to be responsible for tensioning the roof between 3rd and 4th arc. This keeps (heavy) rear window slightly up when going over the hoops. There´re also elastic straps, that go along each side of the window (photo below), which after couple of years loose elasticity - I pulled them slightly and made a knot, to tense them again.
Second pair of the struts, rated at 200N, keeps lower, fifth arc tensed and roof sealed to the cover. If the corner pops, or you need a lot of force to lock over-the centre struts, this most probably is the gas spring being dead weight.

My 100N springs were completely shot, no force whatsoever. The 200N, one had around 35N (causing shearing of the plastic cover on the hoop on that side), the other had around 120N.

For the replacement gas springs, you´re looking for Stabilus 2609NH and 2607NR. Avoid Alfa Service prices, they're double retail. Myself, I've fitted FA Krosno 23286 250N as lower springs, and Hahn Gasfedern 106729.2 + 2xPX22, charged to 150N (these are industrial quality springs, with valve to regulate or charge the spring, and steel ball mounts). FA Krosno you can get around here for 8-10 quid, Hahn are closer to 18-20 quid/piece. PM me, if you want some contacts here in Poland to get them, many places ship internationally. You basically want 155mm, 40mm displacement, 6/15 gas springs with fi10 ball mounting.

10 full cycles of opening/closing confirm that no issues whatsoever remain. :thumbu p:

Removal/refitting is really easy, with just two rivets to drill (I've replaced them with small screws afterwards), and four screws to undo. PM me if you need a detailed procedure.

By the way, popping of the corner is also often caused by the rubber limiter on the over-the-center struts. Undo small allen screw that blocks it, and turn the rubber in.

Last but not least - why those gas springs break? When ordering my springs I spoke to the engineer that designs them, and apparently the biggest factor in gas springs loosing pressure is amount of vibrations, especially when extended.
Unlike gas springs in the boot, or any other places in the car, the ones in the roof are constantly vibrating with the roof up and the car at speed. This means that spring quality is paramount, but anyway they´ll die after 3-4 years anyway and should be replaced. (The ones in the boot can last even 20 years. My other Alfa proves that :) )

So, it was a good day in the garage, now I need a slightly warmer days to take the Spider for a spin...
Mateo, You are a star, youve just given me the answer to both my 939 hood issues; scraping of roll hoops and popping up rear quarter when closed.....GAS STRUTS!! Will be replacing mine soon as.....thank you my friend!
 

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Mateo, You are a star, youve just given me the answer to both my 939 hood issues; scraping of roll hoops and popping up rear quarter when closed.....GAS STRUTS!! Will be replacing mine soon as.....thank you my friend!
Its not an easy job to do, but well worth it.
 

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Hey Guy, Posted same message on AROC Forum so apologies for repetition but I'm exasperated!...:

Oh NOO! Was chuffed at having struts replaced, and yes the old ones were completely shot (the worst one you could slide it in and out just by tilting it!).........BUT

After about 5 operations I got the fateful 'Permanent Hood Failure'......Garage seem to think the extra load of the new struts was too much for a failing hydraulic pump motor which does noisily whirr away now but with no movement
:thumbdown:


During the 5 or so operations I was testing if the original hood fouling issue had been fixed but alas it hadn't.........I then tied a knot in the elastic that runs round the rear window to stop it dipping onto the hoops as suggested on previous link / site.......then I got the failure mid cycle......Ive followed procedure to manually close the hood and I await diagnostics form the garage.....

ANY ideas, thoughts, suggestions or pearls of wisdom (and yes even rude ones at the moment!) would be gratefully received....

Miffed Andy.
 

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I have been reading all these posts with interest as I bought a spider last year with a hood damaged and that was also not working.
I bought a second hand hood and replaced the original damaged one. Information on this forum. While doing this I replaced all the gas struts as they were shot. Next I tried the hood but it was slow and struggled, also the corners would not lock down. There are two adjusters on the frame inside with solid rubber end. I wound these back slightly which allowed the hood to lock. I was still slow so checked the hydraulic pump. It had dark oil so I removed the pump assembly and cleaned out the pump. The three solenoids on the top were removed and they were black inside and the little filters were blocked. Every part was cleaned and blown out including the pump and body. I tested the solenoids and one seemed not to click as hard as the other two so I got a new replacement. I finally reassembled with new clean clear hydraulic fluid and it all works fast and correctly. Have not had any trouble since.
Looking at all these posts, problems can be caused by a combination of several things listed. The only way I found to sort it all out was to go through everything.
Also I may have found a way of replacing a dead ECU but I need an old one to see if it works. Does anyone have a broken hood ecu please? If the fix does work, it could help many people.

Thanks
 
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