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Discussion Starter #1
As I am well pleased with my 20v 156 I am getting every little niggle sorted and getting it running spot on.

So so far..

New Behr stat,
Sealed thread on climate control water temp sensor
Changed EGR (Jammed shut)
Cleaned MAP
Cleaned MAF
Changed Waterpump
Changed Cambelt and tensioner.
Checked VAc hoses on VGT solenoid/actuator (bloody top pipe plastic was brittle and came off in my hands -temp fix while I wait on new one.

Got Parts coming for;
Oil and Filter
Air Filter
Fuel Filter
Pollen Filter
Silicone lower turbo hose
Silicone hoses for new VGT Valve (5 and 3mm)
Clean and grease VGT mechanism
Sort intermittent glow plug error
Going to inspect and clean the shutter valve and area around on intake manifold (if it looks really bad then may take off manifold and clean whole thing - or maybe hold out for a 2nd hand one to clean up).

Rad is clean with fins present (looks like an aluminum rad tbh), All 4 suspension arms were done last year, gonna get round to Aux belt and tensioner but belt is good and spring now working.

Is there anything else that would be a good idea for me to look at or check? Only thing I can think not on list is clean VGT inside turbo. Oh, that reminds me I have the full Fiat ECU scan so am going to check the correct Injector trim values are in the ECU and throw some injector cleaner into tank.

Anyway if I was being a total perfectionist is there anything else you would add to my list? Any other obvious things for me to do or check?

Thanks

John :thumbs:
 
M

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Discussion Starter #3
considering it.... alfatuner one if anyone near me does them.

However, at moment I am on full service and check everything on car to ensure it is running perfectly like it came out of factory (or as close to) live with it for a while and see if I want map or not then :)

I liked the way a company called star in glenrothes did remaps on VW's (they actually had a series of buttons you could press that, on petrol, would allow you to switch between std map, 95 performance map and 97 performance map.... This option would be great as you could switch it to standard at MOT time (especially if they do start checking).
 
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Discussion Starter #4
Drain, replace & bleed power steering fluid (every two years) Keeps the pump and rack nice and sweet.
Bleed through & replace brake fluid (every two years) It's hydroscopic remember and prevents the lowering of the boiling point = better braking and prevents uneven braking issues.

Drain & replace gearbox fluid (every two years) Grease all selector cables and joints and while you are on bleed out and replace the clutch master/slave fluid while bleeding the braking system. No heavy stiff clutch issues or stiff gear stick issues in the future.

Grease the handbrake linkages while the rear wheels are off. Common sense really!

Check the induction pipes for any leaks and make sure that the airbox lid can be removed re-fitted and sealed properly to prevent any future MAF problems
... Nice to see that someone else has the common sense to CLEAN their MAF too... Well done:thumbs:

Remove inspect, clean and refit securely all electrical connections to sensors, relays, earthing points one at a time... Pay attention to glow plugs and starter motor connections, this will pay dividends in the future.

Get a free check done on the battery and alternator charge state at a local tyre and exhaust centre.. It's free so abuse that fact for peace of mind.

4 wheel laser alignment check just to confirm everything is spot on with front and rear suspension and prevents uneven tyre wear, especially on UK roads with potholes that can throw out the tracking very easily.

Check the floorpan and sills and underseal accordingly, no nasty surprises in stall at the next MOT.

Check the exhaust system for carbon deposits and leaks by using a leather work glove over the exhaust silencer tip and listen for any hissing. check the exhuast rubbers for splitting and wear.

Wash, claybar, wax and polish the body and be happy with all your hard work:thumbs:

It all worked for me and have no issues to report... Prevention is far better than the cure IMO
Keep up the good work mate:D
 
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Discussion Starter #5
nice one, fluids were in my mind... gonna fit top quality gearbox oil.

will check exhaust, good tip with glove... induction pipes on list to replace anyway. Will do electrical connections when I am working in each area. Will also pay close attention to airbox lid and how well it seals.

John
 

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Going to inspect and clean the shutter valve and area around on intake manifold (if it looks really bad then may take off manifold and clean whole thing - or maybe hold out for a 2nd hand one to clean up).:
I found that most of the gunk in mine was around the swirl vanes (directly under EGR valve). These were relatively easy to clean once the shutter valve housing at the end was unbolted. It would have been easier with manifold off but that would be a lot of dismantling. It looked much better afterwards but the car ran no better so I would say not a job to do with high priority.

Also give your underside a good check and waxoyl as necessary. Power steering pipes on mine certainly needed a good coating as did the passenger side floorpan. I also unbolted each exhaust system bolt and reassembled with copper grease. I may well be grateful of that when/if the cutch or DMF goes.

Have you checked under carpets for leaks? I wish I had in the summer :rolleyes:

Keith
 
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Discussion Starter #7
All dry inside but not looked under carpet except boot...

Also underside is very clean except at front two scissor jack points where paint has been a little damged. ill clean, treat and underseal them. Where are the leaks on the inside most usually seen? What cause? Just guess there is a common fault if your asking me to look.

Cool on manifold. will chck shutter valve and clean if not fully opening or closing. clean manifold can wait till another time :)

Cheers
 

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There are several common causes for damp carpets but if yours are dry thats good! The wife spotted a small damp patch under the rubber mat in mine. I pulled the carpet back and it was like a swimming pool under there. Mine is probably a backed up air con drain as I've ruled out most other causes but finding the outlet on the bulkhead is difficult due to all that engine in the way.

Sounds like your car got a good underseal at the factory. Many (like mine) did not. My whole passenger side underneath was starting to rust along with some of the pipework.

Keith
 
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Discussion Starter #9
Seems hit and miss underneath my 2000 TS which has spent a lot of it's life near the sea is still clean and nice underneath.

Right 2 more things off list. butterfly in intake is clean as I would want it. No carbon deposits. However on looking although the butterfly mechanism moved by hand it did nothing when I turned off engine (just stayed fully open). Had a quick look ad hose was connected. Popped off plastic cup where it connects to butterfly, looked ok so popped it back on mechanism wouldn't move so levered plastic cup so it was aligned horizontally.... Bingo works perfectly. when I stop car it doesn't shudder an more :)

popped hose back on and started car. where idle was rough before it is now very smooth for diesel vary smooth indeed. I can only assume there was an air leak where hose joined to maifold. went for spin and car feel nicer all round. maybe not 100% on higher rpm yet but a lot nicer. It's also great not having it get rough every time you stop.

So filled with diesel and treated the car to some diesel injector cleaner as well.

Have a feeling after improvement there may still be a very very small air leak. Suspect bottom hose as they don't last long but got silicone one coming anyway.

I like it when going to do one job fixes something else. :D

John
 
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Discussion Starter #10
Had it out again the night.. defo feels a whole lot nicer. without doubt a bit of smoke on full throttle so sure I will find small hole in bottom hose (either that or something else is causing it to overfuel).

Getting there though.
 
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