You can get brush on and spray rust convertor from Frost. Brush what you can, spray in the cavities. Then paint/spray the surfaces (por15 or mastic epoxy) and then spray dimitol or waxoly in the cavities.What’s the weapon of choice for dealing with surface rust and to use on cavities etc? I’ve got a set of Cup sills and a J10 rear apron to fit so the original sills, wheel arch liners and back bumper will be coming off at some point.
Many thanks. When you say spray, are we talking a light mist or an absolute drenching so it’s dripping wet?You can get brush on and spray rust convertor from Frost. Brush what you can, spray in the cavities. Then paint/spray the surfaces (por15 or mastic epoxy) and then spray dimitol or waxoly in the cavities.
No I'd just give them a paint with something like Por15. Give them waxoly on the inside where you can't see.The sills have a number of holes for screws and the push in fixings plus a couple of larger holes with rubber bungs. Spraying stuff in looks to be relatively easy. The paint on my sills is in good condition, is there any benefit in covering the paint in waxoil stuff before putting the covers on top?
I've been advised that Dynax S50 is much better than Waxoyl - https://www.bilthamber.com/corrosion-protection-and-rust-treatments/dynax-s50Hi Jonesy, what did you use the get the Waxoyl in? I am looking at buying the waxoyl pump and a 5lt tin of the stuff.
Dinitrol is very good to. Basically all wax type products are great for the cavities.I've been advised that Dynax S50 is much better than Waxoyl - https://www.bilthamber.com/corrosion-protection-and-rust-treatments/dynax-s50
Not sure how it compares pricewise though...?
Taking mine off was easy, there are screws on the inside of the cabin, underneath and there is one attached to the front arch liner.
The white clips holding on the cover to the sill will get mangled taking them off but there are replacements on ebay.
I think this is the stuff and link? https://www.frost.co.uk/brushable-seam-sealer.html?utm_source=pricejoyDeal with any surface rust. Get some seam sealer from "Frost" website, then clamp the seams together with some c/u clamps.
https://www.screwfix.com/p/g-clamp-set-3pcs/2581V?tc=XA9&ds_kid=92700030952055203&ds_rl=1241687&ds_rl=1245250&ds_rl=1244066&ds_rl=1245250&ds_rl=1249481&ds_rl=1249796&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIv4Dx58ju3gIVrr_tCh213wW4EAQYAyABEgKLHPD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.dsI think this is the stuff and link? https://www.frost.co.uk/brushable-seam-sealer.html?utm_source=pricejoy
Would you use a rust converter first such as Krust then seal.with frost stuff then finally look to bend back any flattened seams?
Guessing any tool such as mole grips carefully to bend back? Do you need to heat or anything before bending back? Then I suppose some way of getting as straight as possible. Please expand on what you mean by C/U clamps as not sure what you mean so trying to visualise?
5 different coats of rust protection might just be enough!! :rofl:I used all Bilt Hamber products bar the final top coat. Dynax I used 2 cans for internal cavities, external surfaces were wire brushed using assortment of power tools. First and second coats following wire brushing was using hydrate 80 (rust converter) I bought 500ml and have loads left, once completely dry I used dynax seam sealer on all panel joints making sure all traces of old factory sealer had been cleared away. Following this I used 2 coats of Electrox zinc rich primer, I bought 1 litre brush on type and had loads left after doing wheel arches, sills, boot floor and as far forward as rear floor pan. The topcoat was a product by innotec in aerosol form 3 cans were used. I bought one pack of 10 clips and a pack of 20 stainless self tappers and didn't need to use all the clips as around half were still fine. Regarding arch liner removal there are 2 screws at rear of arch, one is tucked away in a little recess. 2 more are found up above the general area of bump stop cups and are awkward to get at to remove and even more awkward to put back in, finally there is one more screw at front of rear arch. I did mine with the rear bumper removed and also found heating the arch liners with a heat gun to make them pliable made them much easier to remove and refit. Finally if you are going to be treating these areas around the arches with various paint products make sure you keep any screw holes free from whatever product you are using. I allowed some to get into the 2 screw holes above the bump stop cups and had an absolute mare trying to refit.