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Is there an approved method for sorting out bent seams caused by careless jacking or is it best left alone?
Deal with any surface rust. Get some seam sealer from "Frost" website, then clamp the seams together with some c/u clamps.
 

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What’s the weapon of choice for dealing with surface rust and to use on cavities etc? I’ve got a set of Cup sills and a J10 rear apron to fit so the original sills, wheel arch liners and back bumper will be coming off at some point.
 

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What’s the weapon of choice for dealing with surface rust and to use on cavities etc? I’ve got a set of Cup sills and a J10 rear apron to fit so the original sills, wheel arch liners and back bumper will be coming off at some point.
You can get brush on and spray rust convertor from Frost. Brush what you can, spray in the cavities. Then paint/spray the surfaces (por15 or mastic epoxy) and then spray dimitol or waxoly in the cavities.
 

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You can get brush on and spray rust convertor from Frost. Brush what you can, spray in the cavities. Then paint/spray the surfaces (por15 or mastic epoxy) and then spray dimitol or waxoly in the cavities.
Many thanks. When you say spray, are we talking a light mist or an absolute drenching so it’s dripping wet?
 

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Discussion Starter #27
The sills have a number of holes for screws and the push in fixings plus a couple of larger holes with rubber bungs. Spraying stuff in looks to be relatively easy. The paint on my sills is in good condition, is there any benefit in covering the paint in waxoil stuff before putting the covers on top?
 

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The sills have a number of holes for screws and the push in fixings plus a couple of larger holes with rubber bungs. Spraying stuff in looks to be relatively easy. The paint on my sills is in good condition, is there any benefit in covering the paint in waxoil stuff before putting the covers on top?
No I'd just give them a paint with something like Por15. Give them waxoly on the inside where you can't see.
 

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Discussion Starter #30
Hi Jonesy, what did you use the get the Waxoyl in? I am looking at buying the waxoyl pump and a 5lt tin of the stuff.
 

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Hi Jonesy, what did you use the get the Waxoyl in? I am looking at buying the waxoyl pump and a 5lt tin of the stuff.
I had one of those decades ago, not really much squirt to it. If there are enough access holes then I'd buy the cans.
 

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Their website states:
"Single 750ml aerosols are supplied with one injection lance, multiple aerosols will be supplied with one injection lance for every two aerosols. The lances are reusable please refer to the Injection lance listing for more information."
This is what I will be using on my 156 and GTV.
 

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Ok for anyone who has done this can you expand on what to buy before starting, eg how many replacement clips and screws, how many cans of Dynax or similar. Also has anyone done a simple guide to removing rear arch liners as well.

Guessing job for over winter, with each side of car jacked up and rear wheels removed? Again perhaps job is easier than perceived , just sound intimidating in case you find what you don’t want to?
 

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Deal with any surface rust. Get some seam sealer from "Frost" website, then clamp the seams together with some c/u clamps.
I think this is the stuff and link? https://www.frost.co.uk/brushable-seam-sealer.html?utm_source=pricejoy

Would you use a rust converter first such as Krust then seal.with frost stuff then finally look to bend back any flattened seams?

Guessing any tool such as mole grips carefully to bend back? Do you need to heat or anything before bending back? Then I suppose some way of getting as straight as possible. Please expand on what you mean by C/U clamps as not sure what you mean so trying to visualise?
 

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I used all Bilt Hamber products bar the final top coat. Dynax I used 2 cans for internal cavities, external surfaces were wire brushed using assortment of power tools. First and second coats following wire brushing was using hydrate 80 (rust converter) I bought 500ml and have loads left, once completely dry I used dynax seam sealer on all panel joints making sure all traces of old factory sealer had been cleared away. Following this I used 2 coats of Electrox zinc rich primer, I bought 1 litre brush on type and had loads left after doing wheel arches, sills, boot floor and as far forward as rear floor pan. The topcoat was a product by innotec in aerosol form 3 cans were used. I bought one pack of 10 clips and a pack of 20 stainless self tappers and didn't need to use all the clips as around half were still fine. Regarding arch liner removal there are 2 screws at rear of arch, one is tucked away in a little recess. 2 more are found up above the general area of bump stop cups and are awkward to get at to remove and even more awkward to put back in, finally there is one more screw at front of rear arch. I did mine with the rear bumper removed and also found heating the arch liners with a heat gun to make them pliable made them much easier to remove and refit. Finally if you are going to be treating these areas around the arches with various paint products make sure you keep any screw holes free from whatever product you are using. I allowed some to get into the 2 screw holes above the bump stop cups and had an absolute mare trying to refit.
 

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I think this is the stuff and link? https://www.frost.co.uk/brushable-seam-sealer.html?utm_source=pricejoy

Would you use a rust converter first such as Krust then seal.with frost stuff then finally look to bend back any flattened seams?

Guessing any tool such as mole grips carefully to bend back? Do you need to heat or anything before bending back? Then I suppose some way of getting as straight as possible. Please expand on what you mean by C/U clamps as not sure what you mean so trying to visualise?
https://www.screwfix.com/p/g-clamp-set-3pcs/2581V?tc=XA9&ds_kid=92700030952055203&ds_rl=1241687&ds_rl=1245250&ds_rl=1244066&ds_rl=1245250&ds_rl=1249481&ds_rl=1249796&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIv4Dx58ju3gIVrr_tCh213wW4EAQYAyABEgKLHPD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

These sort of clamps are good for squashing sill seams back together, screw fix call them g clamps, I heard them called a few things lol.

I'd rub down any rusted metal as much as possible with a wire brush, then apply the rust converter. Next put some seam sealer/bond between the split sill seam and clamp it together as hard as possible with the above type clamps. Pull the seam straight if you can, then paint and protect it.
 

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I used all Bilt Hamber products bar the final top coat. Dynax I used 2 cans for internal cavities, external surfaces were wire brushed using assortment of power tools. First and second coats following wire brushing was using hydrate 80 (rust converter) I bought 500ml and have loads left, once completely dry I used dynax seam sealer on all panel joints making sure all traces of old factory sealer had been cleared away. Following this I used 2 coats of Electrox zinc rich primer, I bought 1 litre brush on type and had loads left after doing wheel arches, sills, boot floor and as far forward as rear floor pan. The topcoat was a product by innotec in aerosol form 3 cans were used. I bought one pack of 10 clips and a pack of 20 stainless self tappers and didn't need to use all the clips as around half were still fine. Regarding arch liner removal there are 2 screws at rear of arch, one is tucked away in a little recess. 2 more are found up above the general area of bump stop cups and are awkward to get at to remove and even more awkward to put back in, finally there is one more screw at front of rear arch. I did mine with the rear bumper removed and also found heating the arch liners with a heat gun to make them pliable made them much easier to remove and refit. Finally if you are going to be treating these areas around the arches with various paint products make sure you keep any screw holes free from whatever product you are using. I allowed some to get into the 2 screw holes above the bump stop cups and had an absolute mare trying to refit.
5 different coats of rust protection might just be enough!! :rofl:
Seriously though, it's a good idea to be "belt & braces" with the out of sight parts of an Alfa Romeo!
 

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Not so good under my right hand sill. Will do right hand wheel arch liner removal tomorrow, hopefully not more shock! Considering the underside of my car is really clean and was fully under sealed it was disappointing to find the sill this bad. I think the front and rear sections can be saved, however mid section will need to be replaced. More pictures to follow over coming days of what else I find. I suppose 20 year old Fiat steel it is just down to luck of the draw. Shocking to see however at least once repaired I will know what was lurking is sorted.

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