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I think the chip has to be specifically mapped to the RON, however mine is mapped for 98 with a Squadra but I am too tight for that so it runs fine on 95 :D

So, you're missing out on :

Better fuel economy &
Better performance

I find super costs 5p per litre more yet gives 2-3 mpg more and much better torque when used with the squandra. Please give it another go! :)
 

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So, you're missing out on :

Better fuel economy &
Better performance

I find super costs 5p per litre more yet gives 2-3 mpg more and much better torque when used with the squandra. Please give it another go! :)
Probably but I dont notice the performance loss and its still pretty rapid. MPG, cant say I have noticed it but there probably is a loss, but most of my journeys are pretty short anyway:cry:
 

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AO Silver Member, 155 Lounge Winner 09
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Discussion Starter #146 (Edited)
are the Q4's unreliable? :eek:

ok, time for an update. :)

i worked pretty solidly on the car for 2 wholes days on the weekend. but doesn't seem to be a lot to show for it - just that it takes a long time to do it all!

i opened up both doors on the passenger side for inspection, fixing and cleaning. they were of course quite filthy, like the other side. all the door-seal rubbers were removed, cleaned, and sprayed with silicone to rejuvenate them. door jams cleaned of grime and grease; lower door edges cleaned similarly. plastic door sills/kick plates removed, cleaned, and rejuvenated with Poorboy's Natural Look. any paintwork was cleaned and given a 'polish' with Eagle One Nanowax (i'm using this cos i happen to have it and it's an easy-to-use one-step product; the GT gets the top shelf stuff!).

the rear door was in good condition. aside from being dirty, all the bolts and clips were present (wow!). the front passenger door had a lot of squeaks and rattles beforehand. the trim was not fitted properly. as with a lot of the car - i'm discovering - a lot of the trims and pieces have been removed and refitted in the past (for reasons i don't know). but not a lot of care had been taken, and fitment was pretty shoddy. the passenger front door trim was an example; and the door sills were not screwed back properly using the factory holes. the screws were driven directly into the chassis/metal; and not into the factory plastic retainers :rolleyes: . with a bit of care, i quite easily fitted all the screws back properly into the holes they were meant to be in! now all the trims are lined up properly.

and bliss! the lack of door squeaks and rattles when i'm driving is heavenly! :D well ok, still a few rattles to attend to, but it's nearly rattle-free.

i also changed the passenger front door power-window motor with the newer secondhand one i bought as a pair with the driver door motor. the existing one seemed slow compared with the other side; perhaps on its way out. Dynamat Xtreme self-adhesive sound deadener was applied to the 'outer skin' of the front door; this caters for future stereo upgrades and saves having to completely strip the door again. finally, the broken door-lock knob trim piece was replaced.

*passenger side rear door in good shape; cleaned of dirt and grim, and re-assembled:




*door seal rubbers removed and scrubbed clean; underlying metal all cleaned; note silly screwholes 'created' in chassis when trims poorly refitted in the past:




*trims subsequently refitted with more care, using factory plastic holes/retainers:



*passenger front door disassembled and cleaned; Dynamat sound deadener applied to 'outer skin'; window motor mechanism replaced (spot the handy toilet paper roll!):



*cleaned and re-assembled; replaced broken door lock knob trim:







another job was completing the 'repair' of the trim piece on the driver's door (been working on it for a couple weeks), where the side mirror is. the car has electric mirrors, but at one stage, the previous owner fitted a manual mirror after the original was damaged. he subsequently swapped the mechanisms over, and converted back to electric. however, he made a rudimentary 'cut out' hole in the trim, to cater for the manual 'lever'.

to repair this, i first applied fibreglass matting on the reverse side. a series of small holes were drilled to provide more 'grab' onto the plastic (ie: for the resin to soak into). once dried, bog/filler was used to fill the defect at the front. after a couple cycles of bog-sanding, a smooth surface was created. this was sprayed/prepped with 'spray putty', then finished with 1200 grade sandpaper. i then resprayed both driver and passenger side panels (so that they looked the same) with 'satin black' paint. now you wouldn't know there was a hole! :D

*how it was when i bought the car:


*fibreglassing the hole from the back:





*bog, sanding, spray-putty:





*what hole?! :D





last week, i also received replacement brake discs and pads (Ricambi Tuning, Italy). the discs are Tarox G88 40-groove versions, front and rear. pads are Tarox Strada .112 series, which are meant to be good street pads. these will be fitted on Wednesday by my alfa dealer.

i chose these discs cos: i needed replacements, i wanted something better than OE and not drilled (though the current front discs are drilled (and grooved)), they look great 8) , and there's not much choice when finding an online store that sells to australia! 40-groove rear discs is way overkill, but having front grooved discs with plain rears looks...kinda silly :p . i would have settled for 6 or 10-groove discs (eg: RedDot), but couldn't find anyone to sell them to me, or at a good price. doesn't matter!

Tarox G88 40-groove front discs (257mm diameter) + Strada pads:


Tarox G88 40-groove rear discs (240mm diameter) + Strada pads:


lastly, my oil pressure gauge has never worked. i tested the 'resistance' from the sender, and confirmed it's dead :( (shows a constant ~340ohm that doesn't change with the engine running at different revs). common problem i gather; so i'll need a new one. any tips on where to source one cheaply? i might see if my local car accessories place has a generic one that suits; i've noticed the OE ones are quite expensive.

:)
 

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AO Silver Member, 155 Lounge Winner 09
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Discussion Starter #148
the cloth/velour is flocked grey, rather than white. and the roof and C-pillars have been retrimmed in the past; they are a lighter grey.

:)
 

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Discussion Starter #149
here's some pics of the new brakes. as previously mentioned, they are Tarox G88 40-groove discs, front/rear, with Tarox Strada 112 pads front/rear.

so far, seems a very good street setup. no squeal at all (including at crawling speeds), and good bite. from the website, Tarox do not actually manufacturer their pads, but "work closely with selected friction manufacturers who have developed and manuactured brake pads that work particularly well with TAROX heat treated brake discs."

so i've no idea who actually make these pads!

still, they are better than what i had, though i've not properly tested them out. whilst no specific bedding-in procedure is recommend by Tarox (they do propose a bedding-in process for their higher performance pads suited more for the track), they suggest taking it easy for the first 300~400km. no doubt there is 'better' out there, but should be fine for my needs.

the discs hardly produce any 'thrum' during braking. maybe it was the pads (cruddy EBC Greenstuff) but when i had the G88 discs on my 156, the discs would make a thrumming noise during braking. it wasn't annoying at all, and i actually liked it! it was a reminder that i had funky discs. :p maybe i need to brake harder in the 155. ;)

*front right Tarox brakes:




*rear right Tarox brakes:




*Tarox brakes behind the wheels - front and rear, left side:







:)
 

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Great Rims(Made in Japan???), Great disks inside, but never thought about migrating on 284mm brakes.These 257mm looks small in that big rim. The car stops even quicker with 284 when in high speed. But to migrate, you need to replace: disks,pads,brake caliper,and the pillar. The only disadvantage is that with 284mm brakes in front you cannot use 14 inch rims. Mine are also 257mm, because my winter tires are on 14 inch rims :). 284mm brakes are in 155 2.0 16v TS ;), and I guess in the 155 with 2.5 V6 engine,
 

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AO Silver Member, 155 Lounge Winner 09
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Discussion Starter #151
hey. :) yes, Enkei is a Japanese brand.

i would love bigger brakes. however, i've already blown the budget (don't we all!), and parts are quite difficult for me to come by cos i'm in australia, where this car was never sold. so i have to rely on ebay, and various online stores/suppliers. and many places are either unwilling to post to australia, or it costs far too much to be good value.

so for now, i'll have to stick with the 257mm. :p

:)
 

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did you have a look at the brake bias valve already? if correctly setup, it's impossible to fry the setup you have. if not properly set up, you could cook the brakes in the twisties fairly rapid, especially a standard setup.

The real benefir from fitting bigger brakes is a more instant bite, and the ability to lock the brakes easier...
 

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Great Rims(Made in Japan???), Great disks inside, but never thought about migrating on 284mm brakes.These 257mm looks small in that big rim. The car stops even quicker with 284 when in high speed. But to migrate, you need to replace: disks,pads,brake caliper,and the pillar. The only disadvantage is that with 284mm brakes in front you cannot use 14 inch rims. Mine are also 257mm, because my winter tires are on 14 inch rims :). 284mm brakes are in 155 2.0 16v TS ;), and I guess in the 155 with 2.5 V6 engine,
Why go to all that trouble for a modest upgrade? if you start with 257mm brakes, you have the possibility to fit the 305mm GTA calipers with 305mm Fiat Coupe 20v Turbo discs. All you need besides this is a bracket... I imagine the puny GTA brakes are easier to come by in Australia anyway, maybe even the Coupe discs... BTW, i believe the coupe uses the same calipers as the GTA, so that's another option... If you don't like the idea of a bracket between the hub and the caliper, you'd need to find Coupe hubs and fit 155 bearings to them...
 

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Discussion Starter #154 (Edited)
thanks guys. :)

did you have a look at the brake bias valve already? if correctly setup, it's impossible to fry the setup you have.
yeah, i've adjusted this a couple times now (once before changing the suspension, then afterwards). it's the valve at the back under the car, where i hang a 5kg weight off the leverage arm, right?

Why go to all that trouble for a modest upgrade? if you start with 257mm brakes, you have the possibility to fit the 305mm GTA calipers
305s would be very nice, and would be reasonably easy to source secondhand in good condition here. they would be from a 156GTA or early model 147GTA.

but other 'mechanical' considerations would probably be new wheels again (to allow clearance of the Brembo's behind the spokes) cos spacers are not officially allowed here (in terms of roadworthiness and insurance). plus sourcing some suitable brackets, though there's some good brake specialists around here who could do the custom work (ie: deal with race cars).

however, there's other 'non-mechanical' considerations that add hassle and money, including acquiring an 'engineer's certificate' to approve the modification (ie: to inspect and deem it roadworthy/safe), then insurance costs.

so at the end of the day, the upgraded pads (and discs) do the job at hand. they just don't have the bling or street cred of big brakes. ;)

if i feel the need for 'big', i'll drive the GT. :p

:)
 

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we use the calipers from a 166 instead of the 147/156GTA as the 166 brembo is a thinner caliper and have better chance of fitting behind a set of wheels without much offset
 

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Discussion Starter #156
they may be even easier to source. thanks for the tip - i'll bury that thought away until i have more $$, and the wifey sees that i haven't spent any money on the car for a while. :D

:)
 

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Discussion Starter #158
thanks for the pics. if i ever decide to go ahead, i'll be asking for info at the time (again).

:)
 

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I have a plywood mockup of the required bracket for the 166 calipers that you can use when / if you decide to do this mod. The 166 calipers make a real difference in stopping power at the track...

I bought the 166 calipers at Milano spares for $700. The Fiat VT 20 rotors are a standard DBA part.

cheers, jimn~
 

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Wow! Shiny , why don't u put together all the mods u ve written abt and pix in the form of a booklet plus all the contributions that others make in relation to your project. This material could come handy for mods others may want to do. What do u think?
 
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