[NikoG]

Hello everyone,

I'm Nicolas from France and I joined the club of selespeed victims... I can't find any solution, or idea, in french communities so I'm trying here.

Here's the issue :
I have a GT selespeed from 2007. I had to replace the accumulator a year ago as I could only use 1st & 2nd gear. Everything was going well and after a while I had some other issues. After a few gear changes, pressure was dropping and the pump didn't start to get it right. I broke the bleeding screw trying to tight it up too strong, so the car didn't move for like 3 weeks. I replaced that screw and now I can't start the engine.

I checked with MES and the problem is the pressure that remains at 0.0000... the pump keeps running with no result. Then I replaced the pump but the problem isn't solved at all. Still 0 pressure in the actuator. And it's not the pressure sensor as when I unscrew the bleeding screw I have obviously no pressure (plus the oil level in the tank is not really going down).

It's like the entire circuit is always open and I don't understand why.

Pump relay is new, brake sensor is new. There's no air in the system.

Thank you if you have any lead. I hope it's all clear.

 

[addo]

I have not seen the bleed screw removed on a Selespeed, does it have a point or is the end flat?

As you have discovered by accident, they are only designed to be gently tightened.

 

[MO8IUS]

Does MES show any fault codes? Maybe a silly question but is there fluid in the system?

This is what the bleed screw looks like.

 

[NikoG]

That's the sensitive screw here below.

The only faulty code I have is a low pressure, obviously, P1773. The strange thing is that right now, I have no "selespeed failure" alarm on the dashboard.
And yes, there is fluid in the system. When the pump is running, and the screw out, oil is coming from the hole.

 

[addo]

When the screw is tightened (not hard, just closed) and the pump operating, what is the level in the reservoir - is it within the gauge marks?

 

[NikoG]

Yes it is, close to the max mark. When the system was working "fine", the reservoir was more empty than it is now. It's like no oil is going to the accumulator. Which is logical if the circuit is open somewhere, the pressure is too low to push the gas in the accumulator.
Something should close the circuit at some point, and it's not happening here.

 

[addo]

It is almost as though one of the solenoids is stuck in the “exhaust” setting.

 

[NikoG]

Agree. I'm going to check the resistance for the EVs. I know the big ones should be around 2.5 Ohm and the small ones 5.1 Ohm. Hopefully one of them is dead...

 

[MO8IUS]

If the screw bleed screw is out and the pump is running the fluid should be pissing out like a fountain and your reservoir would be empty in a matter of seconds. Your engine bay would be very oily. The bleed screw sits on the pressurised side of the system.

There is a filter that sits inline with the hose that pumps fluid in from the reservoir. This could be blocked, pictures below. The pressure coming into the circuit from the pump and the pressure sensor should be before the solenoids.

Essentially (as I understand it), fluid is pumped in, pressurises the accumulator (in red in the model) and triggers the pressure sensor, the solenoids operate and utilise the pressure which then goes to the return hose (in blue in the model).

The link below shows the hydraulic circuit in 3D (big thanks to whoever created it).

Selespeed hydraulic unit for Alfa Romeo | 3D Warehouse

Magneti Marelli CFC208F C146 hydarulic actuator unit with internal lines. (No valves, cylinders, mechanics and electrics.) Precision within 5 mm for general geometry and within 0,5 mm for mounting diameters. Made to represent internal hydraulics design.

3dwarehouse.sketchup.com

 

[bazzbazz]

Ok, STOP!

Before you go any further may I suggest the following -

1/ Leave the car overnight with the hood up, this is to allow the system to depressurise and dump most of the fluid back into the reservoir. Do not open drivers door or put key in
the ignition till the next step the following morning.

2/ Take the cap off the Selespeed reservoir - it should be a good amount ABOVE the max mark, if not fill it it so that it is close to the bottom of the neck of the filler tube

3/ Open the drivers door, the pump should run for a few seconds, wait till it stops. Place the key in the ignition and turn to MAR, the pump should run again for a few more
seconds, wait till it stops. Now check the level in the Reservoir, it should have dropped significantly and now be close to the maximum mark on the Selespeed reservoir dipstick.
If it hasn't dropped then the issue is that the pump motor may be running but the pump section itself is not pumping any fluid.

When you say you replaced the selespeed pump did you replace it with a brand new one of one from a wreckers?

Do this before anything else and get back to me.

 

[NikoG]

Ok, STOP!

Before you go any further may I suggest the following -

1/ Leave the car overnight with the hood up, this is to allow the system to depressurise and dump most of the fluid back into the reservoir. Do not open drivers door or put key in
the ignition till the next step the following morning.

2/ Take the cap off the Selespeed reservoir - it should be a good amount ABOVE the max mark, if not fill it it so that it is close to the bottom of the neck of the filler tube

3/ Open the drivers door, the pump should run for a few seconds, wait till it stops. Place the key in the ignition and turn to MAR, the pump should run again for a few more
seconds, wait till it stops. Now check the level in the Reservoir, it should have dropped significantly and now be close to the maximum mark on the Selespeed reservoir dipstick.
If it hasn't dropped then the issue is that the pump motor may be running but the pump section itself is not pumping any fluid.

When you say you replaced the selespeed pump did you replace it with a brand new one of one from a wreckers?

Do this before anything else and get back to me.

Hi.
I did everything you said.
Fluid level dropped to the max mark, but the pump keeps running and the pressure measured on MES is still 0.000 bar.
The pump is brand new, Magnetti Marelli.

 

[addo]

The whole pump is new, not only the motor?

 

[NikoG]

Yes the whole pump. And the accumulator was also brand new, Magnetti Marelli not oem copy.

 

[bazzbazz]

Sure the pressure sensor is plugged in?

Check that none of the wires to it have broken.

 

[NikoG]

Yes it's plugged in, and wiring is fine. There's really no pressure in the actuator.

 

[addo]

The other simple thing to check is by removing the bleed screw and taking a photograph of the hole, this will show any debris or if the thread is damaged. It’s also possible then to compare the depth of the hole, with how far the screw is going in.

 

[MadMotoUK]

Does the pump need priming from new by any chance? It does sound like the pump is airlocked.

Have you tried using a vacuum pump to draw fluid through the system like when bleeding brakes?

 

[bazzbazz]

But he says when he removes the bleed screw and activates the pump it pumps out large amounts of fluid, so the pump is obviously pumping fluid.

 

[MO8IUS]

The OP said oil comes out with the bleed screw out but not how much. Is it a dribble or a pressurised squirt? In post #1 he says when the bleed screw is open there is no pressure, in post #4 he just says oil comes out.

You can tell if there is pressure in the system and the bleed screw is removed.

 

[bazzbazz]

Hi.
I did everything you said.
Fluid level dropped to the max mark, but the pump keeps running and the pressure measured on MES is still 0.000 bar.
The pump is brand new, Magnetti Marelli.

Well the pump is obviously working to some degree, otherwise the fluid level wouldn't drop, however I can't understand how the pump draws fluid initially and then keeps running. To do so it would have to be pumping fluid in one end of the Actuator and then running straight back out again, bypassing the accumulator?

Without being there to asses the situation there is not much more advice I could give.