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Discussion Starter #1
Have removed the calliper, it's the ATE twin piston, but can't seem to get the pistons out. If I blast with compressed air I could get one out but just wondering how to get the other one out? They were seized good and proper. Any advice appreciated. Rich
If all else fails and I can't refurb it do people have recommendations or is a new one the best bet?
 

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Ah, yes IIRC I used a bit of wood - the same thickness as the disk rotor on my old GTV6, and some other shims to persuade the other piston to move, with the aid of a foot pump. Both pistons should get most of the way out.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks Alfahaze
Got both almost out by pushing the brake with the rotor off. They've sort of met in the middle, with a gush of fluid. It's too dark now so I'll have another go later in the week. Are they any easier to get in?
 

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Take both calipers off.
Put them in a box.
Send them to Brake Caliper Specialists in Notts.
Go for the physical overhaul and standard paint job.
It's not expensive, and much better than worrying about leaking calipers next year when the same thing happens....

If you want to extract the pistons, then yes, a bit of wood (or old brake disk) in the middle will allow you to blow both partially out. Do not put fingers in the way, and wear eye protection (brake fluid smarts in the eyes...). Then you've got to somehow grip the pistons and get them out, which frequently trashes them, hence the huge advantage of getting someone else to do it....
 

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Mine were so seized that getting them partially out wasn't enough. With the calipers off, g clamp a bit of wood over one piston, blow the other out completely with compressed air then swap over to do the other side, as said be careful if using air as they come out with some force!

If the pistons are still in good condition then you can rebuild them, seals are only a tenner but if you're looking at new pistons too or paying someone else to do it then I found new calipers to be more cost effective. Rebuild kits are £72 for a pair of calipers but a new shiney calipers is £108.
 

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I've done a few calipers, they all seem to get rusty in the bore before the hydraulic seal. A bit of 400 grit sand paper, reassemble with red grease, and they are good for another few years. Of course if the calipers are actually leaking then the seal groove is likely shot, and they will need to go away for machining. But I've been lucky, and never had a brake caliper piston leak on any of my 116 chassis cars. The handbrake seal is a different story, they just seem to let go all the time.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Encouraging news

For me part of the joy and the pain of an old car is learning how it all works. I've never stripped a brake calliper before and it's been interesting. I'll have a go at the rebuild and if if all goes wrong, send them off to the folk recommended. Thanks for all of the advice and encouragement.
 

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you probably don't need to, but...

if you are splitting the calipers (say to hone the bores), do make sure you use the correct ribe head tool for those special screws...they look like torx, but ain't!......if you mess up the ribe screws they are just about unobtanium.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks, what are they then if not torx?

I have split them, came apart very easily. What are they and where can I get the attachment?
 

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they are called 'ribe sockets' or sometimes 'ribe spline keys' in UK, you can get them for 1/2", 3/8" drive etc

Remember to replace the O ring half seal and to torque them back in 2 stages.

this is a great refurb thread on alfa rear calipers, lots of tips there and the torque settings too. For the 105 alfa rears they say a R5 ribe socket, but check your alfetta fronts for size, first.
Restoring Some 105/115 Rear Calipers... - Alfa Romeo Bulletin Board & Forums
 
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