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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all
Despite the jts not seeming to be suffering from any terminal rust, when i look underneath there's loads of bits that im not happy with!

I have a vague plan in my head tgat at some point during the summer im goung to...
1) Get a hardy wire brush and put her up on axle stands and , whilst wearing a boiler suit and goggles, brush as much of the crap off as i can
2) Buy something i can apply with a brush to protect what I've brushed and also the remainder of the parts that will be exposed to next winter's salt from the roads

Forgive my ignorance but i dont know what the parts are called that im diagnosing as requiring attention but the cross member at the front, where the air box sits on part of it is one area. As are the two pieces that can be seen when looking under from the rear end and form a very open Λ but are separate from each other.

The pointer i need is what's best to buy to apply after ive cleaned?!

It shouldnt be too expensive and my time, im willing to give.

Thanks
 

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Can't go far wrong with the Bilt Hamber products: https://www.bilthamber.com/corrosion-protection-and-rust-treatments/

Brush off what you can (angle grinder with a cup brush helps!), treat what's left (Hydrate 80), then once that's done give it a fresh coat of Dynax.

The front support bracket that the airbox sits on also supports the radiator... They can go a bit rotten, but not terrible to replace if they do rust through... Chassis is where you really want to make sure you do a good job, rather more difficult to swap rust bits when you need a welder ;)

Probably worth popping the wheels and arch-liners off whilst it's up in the air and making sure all is well behind the liners and up into the shock-tower... There's a little shelf of metal just behind the front wheels that tends to collect all sorts of road crud, and can start to corrode out the arches/sills from the inside.
 

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I think I'll be doing similar with both 156s in warmer months.

Last time I did something like that, I used the Isopon Zinc 182 primer (by U-Pol) and then sprayed underbody schutz on. Results are good but in front wheel arch areas, I think I'll use a rust converter (I heard good things about Bilt Hamber Hydrate 80 but I have Q Rust or something) after the angle grinder twist wire brush work, then I think I'll use an aerosol etching primer then use Hammerite. It stills appears to be as good as anything and probably finish with schutz/stonechip.

The rust converter will be useful for any pitting which may not be cleaned off. I once had to use it for a car which I had resprayed (bare metal). That and etch primer then 2-pack paint had no rust come back in the years I had it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Can't go far wrong with the Bilt Hamber products: https://www.bilthamber.com/corrosion-protection-and-rust-treatments/

Brush off what you can (angle grinder with a cup brush helps!), treat what's left (Hydrate 80), then once that's done give it a fresh coat of Dynax.

The front support bracket that the airbox sits on also supports the radiator... They can go a bit rotten, but not terrible to replace if they do rust through... Chassis is where you really want to make sure you do a good job, rather more difficult to swap rust bits when you need a welder <img src="http://www.alfaowner.com/Forum/images/smilies/wink.gif" border="0" alt="" title="Wink" class="inlineimg" />

Probably worth popping the wheels and arch-liners off whilst it's up in the air and making sure all is well behind the liners and up into the shock-tower... There's a little shelf of metal just behind the front wheels that tends to collect all sorts of road crud, and can start to corrode out the arches/sills from the inside.
I think I'll be doing similar with both 156s in warmer months.

Last time I did something like that, I used the Isopon Zinc 182 primer (by U-Pol) and then sprayed underbody schutz on. Results are good but in front wheel arch areas, I think I'll use a rust converter (I heard good things about Bilt Hamber Hydrate 80 but I have Q Rust or something) after the angle grinder twist wire brush work, then I think I'll use an aerosol etching primer then use Hammerite. It stills appears to be as good as anything and probably finish with schutz/stonechip.

The rust converter will be useful for any pitting which may not be cleaned off. I once had to use it for a car which I had resprayed (bare metal). That and etch primer then 2-pack paint had no rust come back in the years I had it.
Thats great. Good advice
Thanks guys
 
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