Swanneck ring spanners do all those jobs perfectly perfectly, but those starter bolts are easy to get to with a few 12" EXTENSIONS AND A 13MM SOCKET.Thats a good idea..
I have a bent 10mm spanner for undoing TS balance belt tensioners, and a sawn off 15mm socket (square drive removed) with half a 17mm spanner Tig welded to the top of it for undoing the fixed Aux belt tensioner on a 156. (no room for socket and ratchet)
LOL Symon, that's the hard way, the easy way is to sit the bearing in place in the gearbox, fit the gearbox onto the engine then PULL the handle the opposite direction to its normal travel till you here the click of the split ring engaging in the spring plate.You are are meant to slide it over the splines, then engage the ears on the bearing with the prongs on the release fork. Then wedge the arm forwads to hold it in place until you have bolted the box back on.
:lol:LOL Symon, that's the hard way, the easy way is to sit the bearing in place in the gearbox, fit the gearbox onto the engine then PULL the handle the opposite direction to its normal travel till you here the click of the split ring engaging in the spring plate.
I've changed a few clutches in the past, but TBH its always been on rwd cars or vans, and I found the fwd layout and the total lack of working space the biggest problem...In general, Jason, did you find that it was simply a case of patiently unbolting your way all the way in, and then building back up again in revers order? Or, ar there any parts that need any tricks. In particular, I,m thinking about disengaging and re-engaing the clutch assembly.
Err..yes...of course not....I remember thinking once though, that the only reason why things are different in theory than in practice, is that it is impossible to apply enough theory to cover all the eventualities that arise in practice. But, it should be possible, no. I figure, leave myself a full day for the disassembly, and another one or two to put it all back together again. Put the car up highish on blocks and keep every thing organised and recorded. I just know, though, that there are about four parts of this job that cannot be explained fully in text, only first hand, and those, I'm sure, are the reasons why you say this. Cheers.I wouldn't recomend this as a first clutch change though:tut:
Does anyone have some pictures for splitting the ball joints please. Cheers......... then split the lower ball joint from the strut, we jacked up the wishbone and tapped the back of the strut with a hammer (on the flat surface-its apparent when you see it) the passenger side came off easily, but we couldn’t split the drivers side so we removed the four bolts that mount the wishbone to the subframe.
After spitting the passenger side balljoint you can then undo the alllen bolts that secure the driveshaft, which can then swing out of the way, .........