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Discussion Starter #21
Great write-up Jason. Has anyone got a procedure for changing the clutch on a 1.9 JTD?
No idea, can only suggest the same but different...
Is it the same 'box?, can't be too dissimilar...but never looked at a GT diesel under the bonnet.
 

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twist the box a lttle to get it out but I promise it will clear the subframe – "honest."

Heres some proff (Few mouths ago)





I didnt remove anything from drivers side tho.. lol
 

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Thats a good idea..

I have a bent 10mm spanner for undoing TS balance belt tensioners, and a sawn off 15mm socket (square drive removed) with half a 17mm spanner Tig welded to the top of it for undoing the fixed Aux belt tensioner on a 156. (no room for socket and ratchet)
Swanneck ring spanners do all those jobs perfectly perfectly, but those starter bolts are easy to get to with a few 12" EXTENSIONS AND A 13MM SOCKET.
 

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"Swanneck ring spanners do all those jobs perfectly perfectly, but those starter bolts are easy to get to with a few 12" EXTENSIONS AND A 13MM SOCKET."

Brute Force :p
 

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You are are meant to slide it over the splines, then engage the ears on the bearing with the prongs on the release fork. Then wedge the arm forwads to hold it in place until you have bolted the box back on.
LOL Symon, that's the hard way, the easy way is to sit the bearing in place in the gearbox, fit the gearbox onto the engine then PULL the handle the opposite direction to its normal travel till you here the click of the split ring engaging in the spring plate.
 

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LOL Symon, that's the hard way, the easy way is to sit the bearing in place in the gearbox, fit the gearbox onto the engine then PULL the handle the opposite direction to its normal travel till you here the click of the split ring engaging in the spring plate.
:lol:

That was roughly what I was trying to say. :)

When we last did one we held the arm in the forward position with a bit of wood, then bolted on the box. Then well pulled the arm backwards to clip the bearing in place.
 

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rough guide to v6 clutch change on 156

Hi Jason, am giving your instructions a bit of a crack. Had something break in the clutch, undrivable shudder, and bloody interesting noise when disengaged. Will let you know how it goes.
 

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Discussion Starter #29
Hi Jason, am giving your instructions a bit of a crack. Had something break in the clutch, undrivable shudder, and bloody interesting noise when disengaged. Will let you know how it goes.
Hope its of some help to you, interested to see whats broken/making odd noises
 

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I am about to fit the GTA clutch to the V6, thanks for the guide.
 

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Discussion Starter #32
I can only assume you would need to ensure the clutch was correct for the new flywheel...the fly whell comes of easy once you've got this far though. I know someone who put a lightened flywheel on his car, and it really span the revs up quickly.
You will lose smoothness though..
 

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In general, Jason, did you find that it was simply a case of patiently unbolting your way all the way in, and then building back up again in revers order? Or, ar there any parts that need any tricks. In particular, I,m thinking about disengaging and re-engaing the clutch assembly.
 

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Discussion Starter #34
In general, Jason, did you find that it was simply a case of patiently unbolting your way all the way in, and then building back up again in revers order? Or, ar there any parts that need any tricks. In particular, I,m thinking about disengaging and re-engaing the clutch assembly.
I've changed a few clutches in the past, but TBH its always been on rwd cars or vans, and I found the fwd layout and the total lack of working space the biggest problem...
Oh and that bloody starter motor bolt:cry: - but in general yes, clear the ancilleries out of the way and its not so bad..I think we removed an upper engine mount too so we could tilt the engine to remove the gear box, although some say its not nesacery I like to have a good look at the flywheel etc and check the first motion shaft for wear, play or leaks.
to realign the clutch plate I just eyed it up with an old 1/2 drive extension
We also removed the slave cylinder as a whole, to save messing about bleeding the clutch, and marked the arm position on the spline.

I wouldn't recomend this as a first clutch change though:tut:
 

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I wouldn't recomend this as a first clutch change though:tut:
Err..yes...of course not....I remember thinking once though, that the only reason why things are different in theory than in practice, is that it is impossible to apply enough theory to cover all the eventualities that arise in practice. But, it should be possible, no. I figure, leave myself a full day for the disassembly, and another one or two to put it all back together again. Put the car up highish on blocks and keep every thing organised and recorded. I just know, though, that there are about four parts of this job that cannot be explained fully in text, only first hand, and those, I'm sure, are the reasons why you say this. Cheers.
 

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Discussion Starter #36
For your reference it took around 6hours for me and a mate to strip out the gearbox...
And around three to swap the clutch and re assemble, we didn't use a ramp, and neither of us are mechanics 9for a living!) we have both done rwd transit clutches (again without ramps or pro gear) in around 2 hours, in and out.
When you say high up on blocks, I can only stress you need good axle stands.When you tug and pull the 'box out, you don't want a car on your head...Safety first.
If you can spare the time you say above, you should be ok...
And you can always pm for help on here during the process
If you can wield a spanner, and have patience it is a straightforward job
Ancilleries off
drive shafts disconected
starter off
gear box engine split
Jiggle box out
swap clutch and reverse
Good luck
 

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The PM offer is appreciated and will, I'd say, be called on.

When I say blocks, I mean a stack of them nearly as wide as it is tall, with a sheet of ply between each layer.

I think I understand the main steps of the process, as you describe them; but I don't, through lack of experience obviously, know what you mean by alligning the clutch using a 1/2" socket bar - is that something you could elaborate on?

Cheers
 

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Discussion Starter #38
Yeah no worries
you have two clutch plates, a friction plate that is floating (sliding, but it doesn't move very far) on the gear box input (or 1st motion) shaft this always moves at the same speed as the gearbox.
The cover or pressure plate goes over the friction plate and is moves at engine speed, there are hefty springs (tines) on this plate that force the friction plate up against the flywheel, and they are released (when you depress the clutch) with the thrust bearing.

you fit the friction plate in the cover plate and then start the bolts in the cover plate, you then need to line up the spline on the friction plate with the centre of the cover plate so that the input shaft will slide on to the friction plate before you tighten up the cover plate bolts...or the 'box won't go back on. You can get an alignment tool, but I usually use a socket to jiggle and centre the friction plate..
Hope thats not clearer than mud
 
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......... then split the lower ball joint from the strut, we jacked up the wishbone and tapped the back of the strut with a hammer (on the flat surface-its apparent when you see it) the passenger side came off easily, but we couldn’t split the drivers side so we removed the four bolts that mount the wishbone to the subframe.
After spitting the passenger side balljoint you can then undo the alllen bolts that secure the driveshaft, which can then swing out of the way, .........
Does anyone have some pictures for splitting the ball joints please. Cheers
 
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