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Quick guide to changing a clutch / gearbox on 2.5 156

The idea of this guide is to help anyone out there who needs a new gearbox or clutch, and either wants to know if it is within their abilities, or not. And to give people who give it a go some tips. It is based on only having basic tools and working as keen amateur spanner men not pros.

The first job as always is to disconnect the battery, only you take it further and remove the battery tray as well, along with the air box intake pipes maf etc this gives you access to the slave cylinder and the gear linkages, we removed the pipe to the slave cylinder and then the actuator arm which we took off the fulcrum shaft, (remove the circlip, pry the actuator arm up and tap gently on the fulcrum shaft, this allows the arm to clear the spline, we marked the position of the arm on the shaft to ensure it went back correctly afterwards) we removed the arm as the thrust bearing is locked onto the pressure plate and we couldn’t get the ‘box out until the assembly could swing free.
The gear linkages fasten over some ball joint type connectors and can easily be pried off using a suitable sized spanner, then using a large screwdriver pry out the cable retaining clips ( when you get under the car you can remove the mount for these cables and draw the cables back through and out of the way)
We also removed the bolt from the top engine mount to let the engine move more freely later on…
This leaves only the speedo wires and bell housing bolts, oh and the top starter motor bolt……
I bent a 13mm spanner to a fantastic shape to get this baby out, and it’s a pig to remove, I will try to post a picture of it at some point.
Crack the front wheel nuts and jack and secure the car on axle stands, this is vital as if when you are jiggling to get the ‘box out the car falls on you ….well just use axle stands.
At this point I removed the manifold assembly, not the down pipes, just the flat section( we swung this around and propped it up so as not to damage the lambda sensor, or its wires) and also the cat.
Remove the wheels and then split the lower ball joint from the strut, we jacked up the wishbone and tapped the back of the strut with a hammer (on the flat surface-its apparent when you see it) the passenger side came off easily, but we couldn’t split the drivers side so we removed the four bolts that mount the wishbone to the subframe.
After spitting the passenger side balljoint you can then undo the alllen bolts that secure the driveshaft, which can then swing out of the way, and allow the gear box to slide off the flywheel.
On the drivers side there are 3, 10mm headed bolts that hold the driveshaft bearing in place remove these and the driveshaft can slide back from the diff.
Support the engine (block of wood to spread the load, and a trolley jack under the sump, and remove both of the gear box mounts, the one on the passenger side also clamps the power steering pipes and a union on the clutch pipe, from the top the clutch pipe can be swung out of the way and the p/s pipes moved to give clearance for the ‘box
Remove the two lower starter motor bolts and a tricky little allen bolt, the engine and ‘box can now be split, you may have to lift and lower the engine and twist the box a lttle to get it out but I promise it will clear the subframe – honest.
You need a T45 spline key to remove the pressure plate and a prybar to pull the plate off the three locating pins, we used a draper ½” drive ratchet handle to locate/line up the new clutch plates and refitting is the reverse of the above.
We also cleaned down the gearbox input shaft and put a small amount of copperslip on it to make the clutch smoother and lighter to operate (and it works) we also put some on the clutch arm splines in case we ever need to remove it in the future….
I would also say, even if you are only changing the ‘box, consider the clutch at the same time while it is all out, ‘cos it is a big job.
We spent from 8am until 4pm stripping out the ‘box, and from 4 until 10pm refitting it all and putting tools away, now we’ve done it once I think we could knock a couple of hours off this….
But not too soon please.
Hope this guide is of some use to someone out there
Oh and Big Thanks to Ben my partner in crime – Cheers Mate:thumbs:
Jason
 
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Discussion Starter #2
Feel like Billy no mates 'cos no one has responded here :cheese:
Anyway Sy here is my modded spanner, I put a bolt by it to show which way it worked. Hope it helps
 

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It is only slightly modified. :rolleyes:

Was that originally an extra long one?
 

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It is only slightly modified. :rolleyes:

Was that originally an extra long one?
What did you expect Sy :lol:
The spanner was around 200mm long, bent twice and straightened once:rolleyes:, and then used the wrong way round - I got more spanners like this and cut down to get at awkward bolts than you can shake a stick at.
 

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I have a few custom spanners too. :D

Being innovative saves money (and hassle) ;)
 

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I have a few custom spanners too. :D

Being innovative saves money (and hassle) ;)
Yeah and skin from your hands :lol:
We should run a thread "modified tools for Alfisti" :cheese:
Got that spanner, a large socket I ground down to push the rear brake pistons back in with and a pair of woodworking pincers re shaped to remove and refit the Alfa hose clips..so far:rolleyes:
 
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Well played on the write-up Jason :thumbs: - dunno how I missed it @ the time :confused:
 

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Cheers jon, you weren't the only one:lol:
 

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Yeah and skin from your hands :lol:
We should run a thread "modified tools for Alfisti" :cheese:
Got that spanner, a large socket I ground down to push the rear brake pistons back in with and a pair of woodworking pincers re shaped to remove and refit the Alfa hose clips..so far:rolleyes:
Thats a good idea..

I have a bent 10mm spanner for undoing TS balance belt tensioners, and a sawn off 15mm socket (square drive removed) with half a 17mm spanner Tig welded to the top of it for undoing the fixed Aux belt tensioner on a 156. (no room for socket and ratchet)
 

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Jason

A big thank you for the clutch change write up.
I have just completed mine, and I dont think I would have been as happy carrying it out, without having read your notes first.
I too now have a 'special' bent spanner for the starter motor in my tool collection.

Cheers

Richard
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Jason

A big thank you for the clutch change write up.
I have just completed mine, and I dont think I would have been as happy carrying it out, without having read your notes first.
I too now have a 'special' bent spanner for the starter motor in my tool collection.

Cheers

Richard
Its nice to help, I've got so much from this site its great to give a little back:thumbs:
 

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Any offers

Hi everyone.Have the same problem with clutch. If yer have a basic knowledge and understanding of engines I suppose the top post would make it easy. If yer dont (like myself), it dont.:confused: Where would yer pick up a clutch and what is the cost.
I have every respect for anyone who can do it and if yer would like to do another, I would be happy to let you.
I will be happy to pay for it to be done at the right price of course. I am in the Widnes area of Cheshire if there are any offers.........:thumbs:
 

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Hi everyone.Have the same problem with clutch. If yer have a basic knowledge and understanding of engines I suppose the top post would make it easy. If yer dont (like myself), it dont.:confused: Where would yer pick up a clutch and what is the cost.
I have every respect for anyone who can do it and if yer would like to do another, I would be happy to let you.
I will be happy to pay for it to be done at the right price of course. I am in the Widnes area of Cheshire if there are any offers.........:thumbs:
My clutch was from a local parts factor, around £175 for the bits, I have a reciept for £700 from the previous owner for a RECON clutch, which didn't last long:tut:

Thers a place at wrexham I think, an indy garage,Allitalia or something.. but don't know anything about them myself, try asking in your area lounge (north west?)
 

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Jason you disn't mention how to re-fit the trust bearing into the gearbox forks....
 

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Jason, it good to see you mentioned the PAS pipes as i've know garages damage and botch them on other V6's. enjoyed this post, nice one...
Cheers:)
 

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Jason you disn't mention how to re-fit the trust bearing into the gearbox forks....
I have a feeling (and it was a while ago now) that we just puushed it on the spline and it cliked into place, I remember fitting it to the shaft, and then not being able to get it off, or on to the shaft, until I pryed out the spring clip...Its a little hazy in my mind now...anyone able to confirm??
 

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You are are meant to slide it over the splines, then engage the ears on the bearing with the prongs on the release fork. Then wedge the arm forwads to hold it in place until you have bolted the box back on.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
You are are meant to slide it over the splines, then engage the ears on the bearing with the prongs on the release fork. Then wedge the arm forwads to hold it in place until you have bolted the box back on.
That seems about right, I seem to remember it seemed straightforward after everything else:lol:
 
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