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Hi. Just attempted replacing the turbo on my diesel 147 16v. Tough job for a non mechanic but job done. Now the questions. I put oil into the inlet pipe of the turbo and turned it by hand. Used turbo off a 80000 miles engine which was running perfectly that I bought for £100 including gearbox. Bargain. So now everything is back together had to remove manifold and one of the water pipes to gain access. My questions relate to refilling the oil and the coolant. Recommended oil and how much oil and recommended mixture of coolant and is there a bleeding process for any or both? Thank you in advance for your assistance. I love this car and don't want to bugger up all my hard work. Was a he'll of a job as I live by the coast and dealt with more rusted nuts and bolts than I had ever imagined. Hats off to all our coastal mechanics/ technician's. Whichever they prefer being called. Lol. Cheers for any advice.
 

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There is no procedure for oil. Manual states 10w/40 but a quality 5w/40 generally makes more sense unless you live in a particularly warm climate. Manual states 4.2 litres capacity but a thorough oil and filter change should need 4.75 litres. It depends on how much oil is drained out.

Coolant is simply an ethylene glycol or mono-ethylene glycol (at a pinch) based product which should have an Organic Acid/Additive Technology (OAT) based anti-corrosion package. Colour is generally pink or red for cheaper stuff. Anti corrosion package is good for up to 5 years. Try to use concentrate as then you know maximum concentration as there is cheap rubbish on the market which goes to 70-80% coolant. The resulting mixture is very viscous and has reduced heat transfer properties. Use quality coolant.

There should be bleed nipples at heater hose near brake fluid reservoir and possibly one at thermostat. Fill up coolant. Slacken/remove bleed screw until air stops coming out and coolant comes out instead. Always start bleeding the lower port first. Top up coolant if necessary but only when not bleeding. Once bled, top up again. Take for a good run, to get it fully warm. Use plenty of revs when fully warm.
Allow to cool and recheck level next morning.
(Only 156 petrol engines tend to need the roadtest and next day check), others are usually fine with run until warm and holding fast idle for 20 seconds.
 

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Thank you very much for the advice. Will get the good stuff all round as you suggest. Not worth going cheap. One more question on the oil. Normal? Synthetic? Or part Synthetic? Cheers mate.

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Normal (mineral), part (semi) synthetic (fully synthetic) are all largely meaningless terms which oil suppliers get to use since Exxon Mobil lost a lawsuit against Chevron, many years ago.

Short answer is just get a decent brand. If it's an oil change service, something like Shell Helix Ultra (works well, not too costly). Use whatever for top ups if necessary.

Long answer is too long. I'm not attempting a petrochemical thesis. It really is a minefield and mentioning that 3 letter word is one of these things which starts endless debates. (runs for cover):boxedin:
 

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Got the helix and did everything you said. Just been for a spin. Pulls well temperature perfect oil level perfect. I am currently over the bloody moon happy. Cheers mate. You have been awesome. 11 hours over 3 days with £30 worth of ebay tools and I have done it. Tomorrow I will re check all bolts and nuts. Bloody chuffed mate. Thank you once again for the advice.

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Smokes like a soab but I'm sure that's from all the oil in the cat that needs to burn off.

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Wow. Great you are happy but it is all your work! Well done.

The smoke will subside. I'm guessing turbo seals or bearings were worn and all the engine oil ended up in the induction system. Obviously it will gradually be pulled into the engine unto there is no more to burn and then no smoke.

Nice when they go properly!:rotate:
 
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