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Car 2006 (06 Reg) GT 1.9JTDm

I've had the MCSF for some time now and each time it's been in for a service they've explained it's the EGR valve but as it hasn't really affected performance or economy I've simply ignored it. Only 2 points have been noticed, black smoke when booting it and temp when hot is a bit below the 90, it used to be dead on 90 before the MCSF.

As I've now bought a 159 I'm preparing the GT for sale so ordered a replacement EGR valve and this morning swapped it over.

Unfortunately when I start the car after replacing the valve it's not stopped the error coming up. Do I need to do something to clear / reset the code so that I can be certain it's fixed the issue?

If the code should have cleared now I have replaced the part then is there another issue I should be looking at?

If I need to buy a lead / software then can anyone link me to proven items or if there is someone in the Staffordshire area who I could nip over to I would be eternally grateful!

Thanks in advance!
 

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Could be a split in a turbo pipe or one of the small pipes leading to/from the solenoid. Is the car hesitant when accelerating from low down?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Could be a split in a turbo pipe or one of the small pipes leading to/from the solenoid. Is the car hesitant when accelerating from low down?
Any chance of an idiot proof pic with arrows of the "Bits" I need to check :)

Replacing the EGR was my first bit of spannering (which for a 37 year old is impressive!) so i'm not sure what the bits you are talking about look like!
 

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mate, unless you have the fault codes cleared by software the light will remain on!

go outside and turn your ingition and engine on and off 10 times, make sure you take the key completely out and start again each time!

You should find that after the 6th/7th time that the engine light goes out. This will mean the fault code is stored but because no fault has been detected the light will go out.

if after 10 times it dont go out you've still got a problem. simple as.

if you have a weak battery best not to try this!

basically after 6/7 journeys the light should go out if the fault is no longer detected but the code will still be available to read on ECU.

if it doesnt go out, come back to us and let us know, you maybe have a boost leak somewhere.
 

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If you are replacing your GT with a 159 I would get a free copy of FiatECUScan and this lead set:-

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ALFA-FIAT-DIAGNOSTIC-LEAD-CABLE-FIATECUSCAN-KKL-VAG-/250964783106?pt=UK_Diagnostic_Tools_Equipment&hash=item3a6eaab002

I think it will reset the EGR fault code (I can't promise the free version will but the free version does reset lambda errors and airbag errors) and it will be useful for your new car as it will read all fault codes and give you a big start with any future problems.

Even if you end up buying the full version it is still a VERY cheap fault finding tool and will pay for itself with it's first or second use.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
mate, unless you have the fault codes cleared by software the light will remain on!

go outside and turn your ingition and engine on and off 10 times, make sure you take the key completely out and start again each time!

You should find that after the 6th/7th time that the engine light goes out. This will mean the fault code is stored but because no fault has been detected the light will go out.

if after 10 times it dont go out you've still got a problem. simple as.

if you have a weak battery best not to try this!

basically after 6/7 journeys the light should go out if the fault is no longer detected but the code will still be available to read on ECU.

if it doesnt go out, come back to us and let us know, you maybe have a boost leak somewhere.
It's a brand new battery so should be good to give this a go. Have been out this afternoon so will try this in the morning.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
If you are replacing your GT with a 159 I would get a free copy of FiatECUScan and this lead set:-

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ALFA-FIAT-DIAGNOSTIC-LEAD-CABLE-FIATECUSCAN-KKL-VAG-/250964783106?pt=UK_Diagnostic_Tools_Equipment&hash=item3a6eaab002

I think it will reset the EGR fault code (I can't promise the free version will but the free version does reset lambda errors and airbag errors) and it will be useful for your new car as it will read all fault codes and give you a big start with any future problems.

Even if you end up buying the full version it is still a VERY cheap fault finding tool and will pay for itself with it's first or second use.
I've already got the new car so yup, 2 Alfa's out front!

Thanks for the suggestion about the lead I've seen other people recommending ELM327 leads?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
mate, unless you have the fault codes cleared by software the light will remain on!

go outside and turn your ingition and engine on and off 10 times, make sure you take the key completely out and start again each time!

You should find that after the 6th/7th time that the engine light goes out. This will mean the fault code is stored but because no fault has been detected the light will go out.

if after 10 times it dont go out you've still got a problem. simple as.

if you have a weak battery best not to try this!

basically after 6/7 journeys the light should go out if the fault is no longer detected but the code will still be available to read on ECU.

if it doesnt go out, come back to us and let us know, you maybe have a boost leak somewhere.
OK restarted it 10 times and the light is still on :(
 

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yeh still have an 'active' fault then am afraid.

only way to know for sure what is going on is to get the fault codes read then you will know what exactly your motor is complaining about.

if you are getting a lot of black smoke tends to mean you are running rich, for some reason.

this is typically because of a split turbo hose, however this is usually also evidenced by a lack of power, size of hole depends on how much power you lose and you also get a loud hissing / rushing noise under bonnet due to air escaping from a leaking hose.

a favour point for the hose to spring a leak is where the lower pipe exits the turbo it passes across the gearbox, movement causes this to run and split the hose on one of the gearbox bolts, you could take a look at it. will only be held on by two clamps but will be oily inside so be prepared to get a bit messy.

dont worry about your engine temp, your a running spot on as far as that is concerned.
 

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Anything is possible, especially when the garages get paid to remedy your issues!

The key thing is going to be either finding the right cable or finding someone who can read the actual fault codes for me.
how far away from wirral chester are you then ..i have gear
 

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Discussion Starter #16
meet ya half way?
That's a brilliant offer but we've got a 9 week old baby so can't make it. Looks like I will be better off getting my own cable / software.

Confused as to whether I need a KKL or EML based cable (or both!). As I say I've got a 159 now so it would be useful if whatever solution I get works on both!
 

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KKL will work fine on the 156 you dont need anything more than that, would think 159 will be same but ELM interfaces from what I have read do more and can perform more functions.

I think you said you have a 159 1.9 jtdm Lusso which should be the 16v jtdm motor, so here you see, from FiatECUScan website:

Bosch EDC16C39 CF4/EOBD Diesel Injection (1.9, 2.4) |INFO|DTC|PRM|ACT|ADJ| KL ELM OBDKey

you can read ECU info,DTC which is error codes, and the rest is parameters, actuators and adjustments all using KL line, ELM cable or OBDKey, so KKL should work.

however if you look at all the other functions available for your vehicle (which you should note you require the paid version of FES for, you can only talk to your engine ECU and get CANBUS info on free version) require ELM or OBDKey:


AISIN AF40-6 Automatic Gearbox |INFO|DTC|PRM|ACT|ADJ| KL ELM OBDKey
TRW Lucas ABS |INFO|DTC|PRM|ACT| KL 1ELM 1OBDKey 1 A1
TRW Lucas ABS (ESP) |INFO|DTC|PRM|ACT|ADJ| KL 1ELM 1OBDKey 1 A1
TRW MY03 Airbag (2F-2P-2L-2T-1G-I) |INFO|DTC|PRM|ACT| ELM OBDKey
TRW MY03 Airbag (2F-2P-2L-2T-2G-I) |INFO|DTC|PRM|ACT| ELM OBDKey
Service Interval Reset |INFO|ADJ| ELM OBDKey
Lauberhorn Convergence C1 (Blue&Me Nav) |INFO|DTC| ELM OBDKey
Marelli Connect (NAV) |INFO|DTC| ELM OBDKey
Marelli/Microsoft Convergence (Blue&Me) |INFO|DTC| ELM OBDKey
Marelli/Microsoft Convergence C3 (Blue&Me Nav) |INFO|DTC| ELM OBDKey
Siemens Instrument Panel |INFO|DTC|PRM|ACT|ADJ| ELM OBDKey
CAN Info |INFO| ELM OBDKey
CAN Setup / PROXI Alignment Procedure |INFO|ADJ| ELM OBDKey
Marelli Body Computer |INFO|DTC|PRM|ACT|ADJ| ELM OBDKey
Delphi climate control (Dual/three zone) |INFO|DTC| ELM OBDKey
Delphi climate control (Single zone) |INFO|DTC| ELM OBDKey
Litronic XENON headlamp (left) |INFO|DTC|PRM|ACT|ADJ| KL 12ELM 12OBDKey 12 A1
Litronic XENON headlamp (right) |INFO|DTC|PRM|ACT| KL 12ELM 12OBDKey 12 A1
Boot (G.E. PROCOND) |INFO|DTC|PRM|ACT| ELM OBDKey
Driver's Door (G.E. PROCOND) |INFO|DTC|PRM|ACT| ELM OBDKey
Passenger's Door (G.E. PROCOND) |INFO|DTC|PRM|ACT| ELM OBDKey
Valeo parking control |INFO|DTC|PRM|ADJ| ELM OBDKey

you will note that some of them say ELM and then a number, like ELM12, these mean than you need an adapter cable or need to modify your cable to view a different ECU pin on the multi-plug.

all info freely available on FiatECUScan website, hope this helps.
 

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however if you look at all the other functions available for your vehicle (which you should note you require the paid version of FES for, you can only talk to your engine ECU and get CANBUS info on free version) require ELM or OBDKey:

Litronic XENON headlamp (left) |INFO|DTC|PRM|ACT|ADJ| KL 12ELM 12OBDKey 12 A1
Litronic XENON headlamp (right) |INFO|DTC|PRM|ACT| KL 12ELM 12OBDKey 12 A1

you will note that some of them say ELM and then a number, like ELM12, these mean than you need an adapter cable or need to modify your cable to view a different ECU pin on the multi-plug.

all info freely available on FiatECUScan website, hope this helps.

Artermis, what functions are available for OEM Xenon headlights if I upgrade to the paid version of FES? I use FES but the unpaid version and this is currently unavailable; I use a modified KKL cable. Dip beam seems OK but main beam is too low; could I correct this? Although auto-levelling is working it seems that the set point is wrong.
 
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