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Discussion Starter #1
I started to remove the sub frame to do my clutch, I removed the exhaust the middle bit do I need to remove the full system? The subframe looks as though it goes right back to the heat shield there's 4 nuts near the start of the heat shield where exhaust joins can if that makes sence,can I separate there?i I don't want to start removing the shield as its all riveted on !

Cheers
 

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no need to remove the sheild......think u can bend it to get to bolts if its in the way......its been a while but all the bolts right to the rear of the car need to come out, mine was not totally removed we just managed to get it low enought to give more room to get box out and it was still a stuggle
i think we dropped exhaust of rubbers and slid it out of the way

its about 3 or 4 years since i did it...........!
 

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no it runs the full length mate.......not a big job to unbolt it really, but its more time spent working on your car !

DO NOT fasten the release bearing to the pressure plate before install !
DO NOT attempt to pull release arm to snap bearing to plate untill the gearbox is bolted up tight!

:)
 

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When you undo the heat shield,the handbrake will slacken off,at least mine did!So make sure the handbrake isn't the only thing keeping the car in one place!if you are using a lift or similar it won't be a problem,but if you are on a driveway or whatever,be aware!I am probably teaching grandma how to suck eggs,as they say,but thought I would mention it,anyway.
Iirc,I didn't remove the rearmost(on the shield) bolts just loosened them,to remove the subframe,but had to take them out to re fit it.
Good luck,
 

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while you have the subframe off you should replace the anti roll bar bushes.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I'm using a ramp so I just rested them eeat shield and exhaust through the middle so hand brake is fine, I got it off its took me about 7 hours just to get it off absolute pitta, but have made sure I know where every bolt goes back correctly, don't know how people do this on a drive, I'm doing the arb bushes need two bottom arms aswell :) do I need to order inner arb bushes?
 

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Hello Kev,

It's a good idea to replace the antiroll bar bushes with the powerflex variety; as long as the locating area on the bar isn't corroded. Don't know if you saw my post re the captive nuts the bolts for the subframe, but you are at a good point for me to ask; can you get at the captive nuts for the bolts which locate the subframe on the chassis? And did you get a new clutch release bearing..or are you going to chance the one with the clutch... Difficult to say how many miles it has on it, but it must be north of 20,000....

More power to your elbow!

Cheerio
The Captain:thumbs:
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Hi captain I will nip out and have a look! My arb is corroded but just top rust, the bushes look fine but will change anyway!
 

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Have a look at CG. Motorsport ive got one of their stage 2 fast road clutches, at £242 its good value and i havent have any problems running a stage 2 map and nitrous.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I got a 3.2 GTA clutch with solid mass fly wheel, there's a few people done conversion with no problems, I got a perfectly good clutch and dmf off captain on here in two minds what to do!
 

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Hello Kev,

My thought re the flywheel choice; the SMF Autolusso kit is new, but if you spend a lot of time in traffic you might feel more comfortable with the original setup, but the SMF will help her rev better ( popular choice for racing)... Guess it depends on how you want the feel of your car to be; even though I had the SMF ready, after a bit of honest thought I wossied out and went for an dual face c&g uprated clutch, but on the DMF, as even tho she is tweaked, the Alfa is not a track day special.....and very occasionally my wife drives it! The Autolusso set up should still be easy to drive since its a standard gta clutch, however....hmmmm. It is a tricky one!

Wonder what our fellow forum members think?

Cheerio
The Captain:thumbs:
 

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As long as you lube the pivot bushes(one top and one bottom of the bellhousing) for the clutch arm the clutch action will be light and smooth,no matter which you choose.
As for which you choose,mmmm . . . . . I went smf and don't regret it,but it does highlight any engine/gearbox mount problems and gearbox wear,mine chatters if you are matching the engine and roadspeed(ie neither accelerating or decelerating) . . . BUT with the dmf it made tha same noise,it was just hidden by the rattle from the dying flywheel!
A good dmf will be a little more refined than an smf,but I like the mechanical simplicity and the difference isn't that great,if everything is in good fettle.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Cheers I will grease them up! I haven't heard one bad thing said about the conversion....
 
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