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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Last weekend I replaced the alternator on my Phase 1 TS Spider. Instead of removing it from below (as per the workshop manual), I removed if from above - which necessitated removing the inlet manifold/airbox.

Other items that are accessible once you’ve removed the airbox include the starter motor and clutch master cylinder.

Owners of a Phase 2 TS might like to look at this extremely detailed article from the 145 forum - which started me thinking about this route for my car:

Engine: Alternator Replacement - Alfa Romeo 145 - 146 Forum

In outline, the steps are:

1) Remove fuel rail from airbox
2) Remove inlet ducting from throttle body
3) Remove throttle body from airbox
4) Remove airbox and support bracket
5) Remove aux belt
6) Remove alternator

Throughout this process, my aim was to disconnect as few electrical connectors and fuel/cooling/vacuum pipes as possible.

So, here’s how I did it.

Firstly, disconnect battery, jack up and support car with front o/s wheel off the ground. You will need enough room to get underneath the engine!

Start working from above the engine - first picture below

1) Remove the fuel rail from the airbox:
- Disconnect the electrical connectors to the injectors and the variator solenoid.
- Unclip the harness casing and move the whole harness forwards and away from the airbox.
- Pull off the vacuum pipe from the relief valve at the right hand end of the fuel rail
- Unscrew the two Torx bolts securing the fuel rail, then pull the rail plus injectors out of the manifold and move them all back to lie on the scuttle panel.
- Ensure you plug the injector ports to prevent foreign bodies entering!

Your engine bay should look like picture 2 now.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 · (Edited)
2) Remove inlet ducting from throttle body
- Use a pair of click-r pliers to unclip all of the intake hose clips, plus those on the intake breather hoses.
- Unplug the air temp sensor connector.
- Undo all the remaining hose clips and remove the intake hoses, including the breather pipes.

This will look like picture 3.

3) Now to remove the throttle body from the airbox.
- First, unclip the top water hose that links to the water header tank - at the water tank end.
- Then release the retaining clips for the heater hoses and wiring harness that are on a bracket suspended from the bottom of the throttle body.
- Finally, unscrew the four hex screws holding the throttle body to the airbox. By gently rotating the throttle body, you can free the harness and heater pipes from the retaining clips and lay the whole assembly down on top of the gearbox.
- There are two electrical connectors to the throttle body - one at the front and one at the back. Use pliers to remove the retaining clips, so you don’t lose them…
- Then ensure you prop the loose end of the water hose in a vertical position so as not to lose too much coolant.

This will look like picture 4.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
4) So far, so easy. Next step is to remove the airbox itself - which is where things start to get tricky. Take your time with this part!

The airbox is held in place by four screws: one at either end of the airbox, screwed directly into the head; and two in the centre of the airbox, screwed into a support bracket.

The only way to get access to the screws on the bracket and the one at the cam belt end of the head is from underneath.

The screw nearest the throttle body is accessible from the opening you have just created by removing the induction pipework. So first of all, locate all of these screws - you should just about be able to feel all of them from above by feeling under the airbox with your right hand. So:

- Remove the right hand screw (nearest the throttle body) using a socket on a short extension. nb you may need to remove the EGR valve to get access to this
- Now get under the car to remove the remaining three screws - you will need several extension bars to reach up to these screws, and I would suggest a long ratchet as the screws are fairly tight
- Note: when looking up from under the car, the right hand screw is slightly obscured by a tab on the side of the supporting bracket. You will need a short 15mm socket to avoid this. Once the airbox is out, you can remove the bracket and bend this tab out of the way to make reassembly easier.

*** This part will take some perseverance. Give yourself plenty of time, and make sure you have enough reach and leverage with your socket extensions and ratchet handle to undo these screws.***

- Once all four screws are out, get out from under the car and back to the engine bay…
- Check you’ve released all 8 of the inlet hose clips, and remove the plastic cover for the fuse box on the firewall.
- Now you can manoeuvre the airbox away from the head. It is a VERY snug fit; you need to push it backwards slightly then move it slightly to the left and rotate it forwards to move the bulk of the airbox up and past the inlet ports.
- Once it is free, tilt the airbox upwards and support it on its left hand end.
- Note - be careful of the three electrical connectors and vacuum hoses all attaching to the left hand end of the airbox.

So now, your engine bay should look like picture 5.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
… and now you can replace your alternator/clutch master cylinder/starter motor…

5) I was replacing the alternator, so next steps were:
- Remove the airbox support bracket (two screws where the bracket meets the block, plus various cable clips to undo)
- Disconnect 2x cables from back of alternator
- Remove aux belt (I’m assuming you know how to do this already ;-) )
- Undo 2x nuts & bolts securing alternator
- Remove alternator and lift out through gap where airbox support bracket and inlet ducting was…

The pictures below show:

- The view of the alternator (with the airbox support bracket still in place).
- The bracket itself - showing the screw holes. The tab I mentioned above is on the right side below the T - I’ve bent it forwards through 90 degrees. Not too clear from this photo, I’m afraid…
- my 15mm ring spanner plus Mole grips for extra purchase when releasing the aux belt tensioner…
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Notes on Reassembly

Reassembly is the reverse of the above and is fairly straightforward - the only tricky part is replacing the four retaining screws for the airbox, especially the two on the bracket.

You’ll see that the bracket has a rubber bush suspending the short crossbar which is screwed to the airbox. This means that aligning the holes with the holes in the airbox is tricky and you may therefore need an assistant to move the crossbar into position whilst you push the screws home from beneath the car and tighten them up.

Aside from that - it’s all pretty simple. Make sure you clean the injectors before refitting; replace any lost coolant; and, once you’ve double-checked you’ve re-connected everything, fire up and go for a test drive…

Good luck, and hope this helps...
 
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