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Discussion Starter #1
Hi,
I have decided to drop the heads of my V6 engine : V6 24V 3.0 from GTV MY 99. The reason is what seems to be oil in coolant :

Below are a few pics of the work I have done

Reading a thread in the 164 forum section, it seems that this is not that abnormal for Bussos. I was thinking this morning at giving up the engine heads drop and change the cam belt only when I had a real problem : the light I was using (fluo tube) as work light dropped on the front cross beam(over the radiator).

I had not taken the time to plug the air intakes nor the engine oil channels. When the tube broke, some of tiny debris spread over the "open" engine. Most of the debris ended on the floor though, but I could find some all over pthe place including the engine unfortunately.

Looking closely with an inspection lamp, I could see tiny debris on some of the valves as well as in the heads (mixed in the oil).

I cleant the best I could, mostly with a vacuum to avoid pushing the debris further, but I cannot be certain that no debris went inside the cylinders or the oil channel (sump).

The best solution would be IMHO to carry on, drop both heads, majke a thorough oil change and put everything back together.

Question 1 : if I decide not to drop the heads, could the debris damage the cylinders?

Question 2 : If I need to remove the heads, should I avoid rotating the engine to be able to fit the cam locking tools and remove as it is today?

Question 3 : If I remove the heads w/o making sure the Piston #1 is at high position, I could still rotate the egine once the heads are back w/o fitting the camshaft to cylinder 1 in high position. But How will I know whether the cylinder is at compression or exhaust phase? Any marking on the flywheel for instance?

Question 4 : Simple one, though I did not really struglle to drop the exhaust (!), I simply cannot remove this part (cooling distributor surrounded in red on the 4th picture). Can you please help on this?:




Thx in advance.
 

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Pic4- I believe there are 3 10mm bolts holding the thermostat housing to the two heads

TDC - I believe there is a notch on the crank pulley that will align with a notch on the oil pump housing

You could remove no1 spark plug and insert a long thin screwdriver . Turn the engine to the point where the screwdriver is at its highest point - This will also give you TDC - A dial gauge would be more accurate

Shattered glass- Vacuum as much as possible as you have done- You will need to remove the camshaft to access the head bolts to remove the heads and have better access to vacuum further
Definitely change oil and filter and antifreeze on completion

Hope this helps and good luck
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Pic4- I believe there are 3 10mm bolts holding the thermostat housing to the two heads

TDC - I believe there is a notch on the crank pulley that will align with a notch on the oil pump housing

You could remove no1 spark plug and insert a long thin screwdriver . Turn the engine to the point where the screwdriver is at its highest point - This will also give you TDC - A dial gauge would be more accurate

Shattered glass- Vacuum as much as possible as you have done- You will need to remove the camshaft to access the head bolts to remove the heads and have better access to vacuum further
Definitely change oil and filter and antifreeze on completion

Hope this helps and good luck
Hi
thx for your response. I managed to unscrew 2 of the bolts. Can't find the last one?!.. I will have a thorough look and try again...
 

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Hi,
I tried the vacuum further and compressed air. It did not really work especially for the spark plug holes.
I will definitely take the heads off.
Here is where I am today. (picture):paperbag:
The problem is that I cannot not remove this bloody thermostat.
Unscrewed 2 bolts, and looked thoroughly but could not find the 3rd. I am stuck and cannot get further :banghead: :banghead: :banghead: :banghead: :banghead:
 

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Hi

If all bolts are off, you need to gently tap the thermostat housing with a rubber mallet preferably to to slide it off the two metal water pipes
Hope this helps
 

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Sorry but shattered glass is very bad for an engine, that will scratch everything, and will work it's way everywhere if you don't get it all out. I think you need to totally strip the engine and carefully clean everything.
 

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Glass ..

For inside the inlet chamber get some fly paper and put on sticks and push into the chamber and blow compressed air or c02 etc etc into the chambers , renew the paper every so often and check for debris when you cant get anymore on fly paper your fairly much clear ( just make sure you blow air from lots of angles and or use an attachment so air can be blown deep within the chamber

Hope advise has not reached you too late

Good luck
 
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