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Discussion Starter #1
i find that when i set up my rear wheel bearings after a drive the wheel goes loose again so i have decided to change them and am wondering if the bearing outer races (cups) can be punched out or if i need to organise a puller tool. also on reassembly is a bearing lock tight solution is recomended, thanks enri
 

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If you clean the grease out from centre of hub, ie between the inner races, you will see a small cut out in the casting adjacent to the bearing seat. Use a punch and hammer to knock the bearing race out from behind, turn over hub and do the same for the other side. No loctite required. Fit new races, i use large socket and gentle taps from hammer to seat new races, ensure they are seated properly. Fit bearings/seal, Refit hub, fit washer and nut, spin hub while torqueing up to 18 - 22 lb ft loosen off nut the required amount, tap end of shaft with soft head mallet, set end float then stake nut.
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
thanks all,
done the job today
found those steps in the casting , made the job so easy
i used the old races to tap in the new ones onto a washed clean surface without any loctite
a tub of timken red bearing grease
and cruising again!
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
the races (or cups) are the outer part of the bearing. when you buy a bearing both parts come together. you can buy them as a kit including the oil seal from alfa places or individually from bearing shops .
 

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Sprint rear wheel bearing questions

If you clean the grease out from centre of hub, ie between the inner races, you will see a small cut out in the casting adjacent to the bearing seat. Use a punch and hammer to knock the bearing race out from behind, turn over hub and do the same for the other side. No loctite required. Fit new races, i use large socket and gentle taps from hammer to seat new races, ensure they are seated properly. Fit bearings/seal, Refit hub, fit washer and nut, spin hub while torqueing up to 18 - 22 lb ft loosen off nut the required amount, tap end of shaft with soft head mallet, set end float then stake nut.
I'm just in the process of replacing the rear discs on my Sprint after finding a small amount of play on the LHS disc which had led to the disc becoming grooved. I have the replacement disc which came with the bearing cups, innner and outer, already fitted inside the hub :thumbs:

I have two questions. Where can I get just the oil seal as the rest of the bearings look ok ? And, please can someone tell me how to 'stake' the nut as the nut on mine did not appear to have anything holding it in place (and consequently might have been the reason why the whole assembly was slightly loose) ? The Haynes manual does not show anything like a split pin or special washer to hold it in place so I'm ever so slightly :confused:
 

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on the thread of the stub axle, there is a cut out with no thread, you need to tap the edge of the nut into this groove and thats all that holds the nut in place. There is a washer underneath the nut so no turning force is applied to the nut. I too felt worried when i first did mine and i was forever checking mine, now i check once after about 200 miles of bedding if and retighten in needed.
 

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on the thread of the stub axle, there is a cut out with no thread, you need to tap the edge of the nut into this groove and thats all that holds the nut in place. There is a washer underneath the nut so no turning force is applied to the nut. I too felt worried when i first did mine and i was forever checking mine, now i check once after about 200 miles of bedding if and retighten in needed.
Ok, thanks, I'll make sure I do that when I put it all back together :)
 
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another good tip for those too tight to buy new nuts everytime they are taken off (shouldn't really re-stake the same nut, weakens the part that locks it in position) is to swap them side to side, usually end up being in a different part of the nut then :cool: last twice as long :lol:
 

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One final comment on this thread, received new bearings from eBay and noticed they had 'Daewoo' stamped on them. Were they even around in the early 80's ('that'll be the Daewoo' and all that free servicing malarky) ??

Anyway they fitted fine (including the new seal that came with the kit) after following the usefuls tips provide above, so thanks to all.
 
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