Rear Subframe Rebuild

8187 Views 114 Replies 12 Participants Last post by Leebluegtv, 5 mo ago

Nellytheroc

Discussion Starter · 8 mo ago

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Since getting the Spider about 5 years ago, I’ve been slowly collecting the bits I need to rebuild the rear suspension which I started today. I thought I’d document the progress on here adding to the thread as and when I do something. I’ve decided to go down the route of rebuilding a complete subframe and fitting it to the car rather than swapping parts in situ so the car will be off the road for the minimum amount of time.

First of all the parts you need. I’ve got the following…

Spring pans
V6 ARB and Powerflex bushes
Dog legs
Wheel bearings
Hubs
Refurbed brake calipers
Powerflex bushes
Brake hoses
Brake compensator
Subframe
Various nuts, bolts and washers etc
Eibach springs
Drop links
Ball joints
Brackets for handbrake cables, brake hoses, exhaust hangers etc

I’ll add to this list if I think of anything else I need

Still to buy…

Rear shocks
Rear discs

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Nellytheroc

Discussion Starter · #81 · 7 mo ago

Leebluegtv said:
Looking good now coming on. Can you get the purple bushes for spring pans?

Not sure about that… try contacting Powerflex, I’ve been in touch with them a few times and they’re really helpful.

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Nellytheroc

Discussion Starter · #82 · 7 mo ago

I seem to have damaged one of the threads on the hub getting the hub nut off. Does anyone know what size it is so I can get a die and try sorting it before going down the route of getting a new hub carrier.

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BarbyCar

· #83 · 7 mo ago

Nellytheroc said:
I seem to have damaged one of the threads on the hub getting the hub nut off. Does anyone know what size it is so I can get a die and try sorting it before going down the route of getting a new hub carrier.

I don't know the thread size but if you have a set of calipers or a micrometer you can measure the outside diameter - the nearest whole millimeter above will be the M size. Then measure a count of 10 thread 'crests' and divide the measurement by 9 and you'll have the pitch.

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Nellytheroc

Discussion Starter · #84 · 7 mo ago

BarbyCar said:
I don't know the thread size but if you have a set of calipers or a micrometer you can measure the outside diameter - the nearest whole millimeter above will be the M size. Then measure a count of 10 thread 'crests' and divide the measurement by 9 and you'll have the pitch.

Thanks… did a bit of research online and it looks like it’s a M22 x 1.5

malc_chev

· #85 · 7 mo ago

I can't really see how bad it is, but you can often rescue threads (especially relatively coarse ones like that) with a triangular needle file.

Best of luck trying to sort it!

Nellytheroc

Discussion Starter · #86 · 7 mo ago

malc_chev said:
I can't really see how bad it is, but you can often rescue threads (especially relatively coarse ones like that) with a triangular needle file.

Best of luck trying to sort it!

Thanks. It doesn’t look too bad, I think I accidentally hit it with a hammer knocking the old wheel bearing off. I’ve ordered a thread repair file (which I didn’t even know existed) which should hopefully sort it.

Nellytheroc

Discussion Starter · #87 · 7 mo ago

Today’s valuable lesson learned… look after your nuts. I bought some stainless steel reverse thread nuts for the tie bars and managed to loose them so I ordered some more and some right hand thread ones… in the wrong size so for the record, they are M12 x 1.0 so if anyone needs some M10 x 1.0 stainless half nuts left and right hand thread, 5 of each, never used, one careful owner etc give me a shout.

sprint_veloce

· #88 · 7 mo ago

Not sure where you're using these nuts but don't use stainless fasteners anywhere critical, such as brakes and suspension. They're considerably weaker than proper steel fasteners

Nellytheroc

Discussion Starter · #89 · 7 mo ago

sprint_veloce said:
Not sure where you're using these nuts but don't use stainless fasteners anywhere critical, such as brakes and suspension. They're considerably weaker than proper steel fasteners

They’re just the locking nuts on the tie bar/toe in adjusters. All the other nuts and bolts are correct 10.9 steels ones.

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Nellytheroc

Discussion Starter · #90 · 7 mo ago (Edited)

A bit of work with a thread file has sorted the hub carrier and I can now get the hub nut on and off.

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Ive now got the hub carrier soaking in vinegar to hopefully deal with any rust before a coat of Hydrate 80 and a few coats of POR15.

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Nellytheroc

Discussion Starter · #91 · 6 mo ago

Not too much progress recently… had the hub carriers soaking in vinegar for a couple of days to get rid of any rust. Rinsed them off and gave them a quick wire brush and a couple of coats of rust treatment ready for painting.

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Leebluegtv

· #92 · 6 mo ago

Nellytheroc said:
Not too much progress recently… had the hub carriers soaking in vinegar for a couple of days to get rid of any rust. Rinsed them off and gave them a quick wire brush and a couple of coats of rust treatment ready for painting.
View attachment 981944

What you gonna do just spray paint over that rust treatment krust or whatever it is 👍

Nellytheroc

Discussion Starter · #93 · 6 mo ago

Leebluegtv said:
What you gonna do just spray paint over that rust treatment krust or whatever it is 👍

I’ve got some black POR15 in the garage so I’ll give them a couple of coats with that.

Nellytheroc

Discussion Starter · #94 · 6 mo ago

3

More progress… new shocks delivered and fitted and first spring in place. I attached the upper end of the shock, put the spring in place with a liberal coat of grease where there is contact between the flower pot and subframe to prevent rust if the paint gets worn then a bit of weight on the spring pan while lining up the shock, bolt in, job done. The top of the shock needed a bit of filing on the subframe to get it flat and a bit of jiggling while tapping with a rubber mallet but went in with no real dramas.

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Nellytheroc

Discussion Starter · #95 · 6 mo ago

2

Getting there slowly… first coat of paint on the hub carriers after treating for rust. Hopefully get them done ready to fit at the weekend then it’s just the tie bars and calipers etc to fit and brake pipes to make…

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Beddo88

· #96 · 6 mo ago

Looking excellent fella - You have far more patience than I do for that bit! I just wanted mine back on the road it had been off for so long! THe irony I moved house and its sad lonely again for aother 18 months so far

Nellytheroc

Discussion Starter · #97 · 6 mo ago

Beddo88 said:
Looking excellent fella - You have far more patience than I do for that bit! I just wanted mine back on the road it had been off for so long! THe irony I moved house and its sad lonely again for aother 18 months so far

Thanks… I find it quite therapeutic and relaxing. My Alfas definitely keep me calm and have probably saved a few people from being punched in the throat 😳

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Leebluegtv

· #98 · 6 mo ago

Nellytheroc said:
Thanks… I find it quite therapeutic and relaxing. My Alfas definitely keep me calm and have probably saved a few people from being punched in the throat 😳

🤣🤣👍

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Nellytheroc

Discussion Starter · #99 · 6 mo ago

2

Not too much progress recently. I got a pair of used tie rods as I’d removed the bushes from the spare set I had without sourcing replacements… and managed to snap one so I’ve bitten the bullet and ordered Strongflex bushes. In the meantime more painting, this time it’s the guards that go behind the brake discs.

Does anyone know what size bolts are needed to attach the brake compensator onto the bracket?

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Leebluegtv

· #100 · 6 mo ago

Nellytheroc said:
Not too much progress recently. I got a pair of used tie rods as I’d removed the bushes from the spare set I had without sourcing replacements… and managed to snap one so I’ve bitten the bullet and ordered Strongflex bushes. In the meantime more painting, this time it’s the guards that go behind the brake discs.

Does anyone know what size bolts are needed to attach the brake compensator onto the bracket?
View attachment 982752 View attachment 982753

didnt know you could get rubber bushes for tie rods?

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