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Discussion Starter #1
hi guys.
im in the process of changing my dics and pads on the rear as they are really in bad condition.
just wondering whats the easiest way to remove the two big bolts holding the carrier on? looks like one of the suspension arms are in its way, should i remove this first?
anything else i should do back there as well?

cheers
 

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There's just enough room to get the rear disc off without removing the carrier. It will foul the carrier very slightly but it will come off.

All the best

Pub
 

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Discussion Starter #3
so iv took the caliper/piston off and left the carrier on. my pads seems to be really stuck in and im thinking this is maybe why my disc is in such bad condition. any advice on how to remove them?
another thing, iv tried winding in the piston and the rubber keeps rotating with it. worried about tearing it. can this be removed so the piston can go back in?
 

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The rubber just rests in a lip at the end of the piston, you should be able to lift it and smear a little something round the neck of the rubber. If it's stuck to the piston gently ease it off.

As for the pads being stuck in the carrier...dunno. Hammer?

Good luck

Pub
 
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The rubber just rests in a lip at the end of the piston, you should be able to lift it and smear a little something round the neck of the rubber. If it's stuck to the piston gently ease it off.

As for the pads being stuck in the carrier...dunno. Hammer?

Good luck

Pub
With the caliper off, and the disc removed, a big flat screwdriver and a hammer will move the pads easy. Then file down the metal from the carrier where the rust is, where the stainless clips were. File till the new pads in new stainless slide plates move easily with some copper grease on the ears.


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Discussion Starter #6
thanks for that info mate.
i didnt put any copper grease on or file the rust down. everything is back on now tho. if i get any squeaking ill be doing what you said.
thanks guys
 

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Discussion Starter #8
haha, was very hard getting the new pads to fit. might tak them back off tomorrow to grease them n file them down
 
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haha, was very hard getting the new pads to fit. might tak them back off tomorrow to grease them n file them down
Don't file the pads ears down, you need to get at the caliper carrier sections where the stainless steel plates clip on. Under them, the metal corrodes and squeezes the pads until there get stuck. Usually on the outside face. Then the caliper stops moving and the slide pins corrode or stick. Then its all a pain in the bum to fix.

I got medievel on mine with a powerfile and kept dry fitting the pads until they moved freely but without any clonking about.

If you went without copper grease in the stainless steel plates, you'll be alright for a while, but no copper grease to help stick the pads to the caliper will result in squealing sooner or later.

I speak from experience. It took 3 attempts to get my rear calipers freed up and working properly.


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Discussion Starter #10
Don't file the pads ears down, you need to get at the caliper carrier sections where the stainless steel plates clip on. Under them, the metal corrodes and squeezes the pads until there get stuck. Usually on the outside face. Then the caliper stops moving and the slide pins corrode or stick. Then its all a pain in the bum to fix.

I got medievel on mine with a powerfile and kept dry fitting the pads until they moved freely but without any clonking about.

If you went without copper grease in the stainless steel plates, you'll be alright for a while, but no copper grease to help stick the pads to the caliper will result in squealing sooner or later.

I speak from experience. It took 3 attempts to get my rear calipers freed up and working properly.


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hi mate. i sorted this out this morning. did exactly what you said and now the pads slid in really easily and its all copper greased up.

next is sorting the handbrake and for some reason the rear left piston hasnt got a outer rubber boot seal on it. got know where its gone. lol

cheers
cheers.
 

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I filed the lot, but I got the smooth action by clipping back my ears an greasing it all up.

Nick
 

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Not really. The reason for not doing it is that the ears aren't the problem, it's the corrosion on the carriers. Fix the corrosion, fix the cause. File the pads and you fix the symptom!
In principle yes, but aftermarket pads may not be a correct fit as the backplates are probably not made on OE tooling or to OE drawings or made on worn press tools which produce an oversize product or a poorly-finished edge, in addition to which they may have excessive paint which needs to be removed to give the desired sliding fit.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
hey guys, quick question.
obviously u know I fitted my back discs and pads the other day. just normal sized discs and mintex pads. cheapness really.
but iv noticed that the pads don't rub close to the centre of the disc. its more closer to hanging over the edge of the disc. this doesn't seem normal to me. as the discs are grooved and drilled its missing some of the groove.
do you think the pads arnt right for the car? don't want my discs wearing out uneven.
hope you understand what I mean.
 

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Its because the GT uses same calipers as 147 but they made the carrier bigger for bigger discs, more leverage force for the heavier bum, so the pads don't cover the whole disc, as Andy said it's normal.
 
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