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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all.

This weekend I need to access the rear of the engine to tighten up the lambda and re-install the rear bank heatsheild. I left these off to ease the installation of the manifold and now regret it as it is impossible to re-install with the subframe in place.

It was suggested to me to try disconnecting the front and top mounts and drop the engine down untill the dipstick is almost touching the radiator and this is my prefered technique but I am worried that the oil cooler pipes will be overstressed to do this. Also would I need to remove the downpipes to allow me to do this?

The other suggestion which I have from a google search (by forum member Gotcha) was to disconnect the upper and rear mount to allow for the access.

Which is the best and fastest method to do this? I am determined to get finished this weekend and don't want any more hiccups!

Thanks,
 

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For the oil cooler pipes - they are flexi from the base on the engine to the cooler - there is quite a lot of slack in there. As long as they don't go tight, they will not be over stressed.

Downpipes - yes you will be bending the flexi. But imagine if you bolted up the flange at the underbody cat end and let them dangle - they'd pretty much hit the floor, so they won't be moving outside reasonable travel. You could always disconnect them - you've had them off recently, won't take more than a few minutes as nothing will be seized.

Disconnect the rear mounts and rotate the other way? Would certainly work at the bottom, don't know about the top.
 

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Right, it sounds like what you've been told is to;

Unbolt the stabiliser bar from the strut top.

Support the bottom engine / gear box on a trolley jack with a big plank of wood?

And drop the engine off both of the front mounts - one attached to the gearbox and the other by the air con pump, both of which are bolted to the chassis legs. Nearside by a 19mm bolt through the mount, offside by 3 x 13mm bolts through a plate the mount is bolted too?

Oui? I've not done it myself but Blackcat (IIRC) rekons you can get the alternator out this way...

The Oil cooler pipes and the oil cooler mount sit on top of the offside front mount... So no issues there. They'll move with the engine.

And Yes OP, you definitely need to remove the front pipes.

Also, remove the dipstick, it's not hard and will probably poke a hole in the rad if you don't.

Basically, you'll have the engine sat on the rear gearbox mount and a trolley jack. Not fun.
 

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I'm the person who offered this solution :).

I've done on it on the GT, and it isn't scary with a decent (big, stable) jack. The rear mount is pretty solid, so the engine isn't flopping about. If you were really paranoid, I suppose you could put a threaded bar in the mount on the gearbox side, and adjust down on that with a big nut at the end limiting travel.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks all. RXE, it was yourself but I couldn't remember your username. Thanks for the suggestion. I will give it a shot with some of Chris' safety precautions too and report back.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Tried your method RXE and it was close but no joy. I had the dipstick off and the cam cover was touching the fans but no, the lambda cable gets stuck and won't let it go lower. You can forget removing the whole manifold out this way unless you have a special v6 with no aircon.

Tried the gotcha method as well. Not even close to enough room.

So now I am removing the subframe and different all over again to get that fecking thing back on.

To say I am angry right now would be the understatement of the century. I want to smash something right now. 8 ****ing weekends and now I am taking the car to pieces again because of 1 ****ty little piece of metal!
 

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I feel your pain - I have the starter motor on my GTV V6 to swap. Seems it's a rear manifold removal job.
 
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Discussion Starter #8
Heat shield is back on. **** me what a tough job. In the end I had to remove the diff too. Now the shield is back on reassembly is so much harder. I remember why I left it off.
 

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We're you doing this on axle stands or ramps?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Axle stands. Not ideal.

What is the record for removing the front subframe? I may have beaten the record. From fully assembled car to subframe off in 1.5 hours.
 

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Blimey - that sounds good. Takes me an 1/2 hour to get it up on the stands!
 

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To say I am angry right now would be the understatement of the century. I want to smash something right now. 8 ****ing weekends and now I am taking the car to pieces again because of 1 ****ty little piece of metal!
I literally LOL'd at this!!! :biglaugh::biglaugh: Only because I feel your pain and have found myself in similar sh1tty situations and felt like setting fire to the damn thing!!
 

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Were you trying to remove the entire manifold to get the shield on? Getting that manifold out is impossible with the rear head on - it's damn difficult getting it out with the rear head off.

I seem to remember my technique was to have the lambda out entirely, slide the heatshield fully down, then do up the lambda, can't remember it was 2 years ago, I should have taken some photos.

It is much easier to rip it all apart again because nothing is seized and you don't have those struggles with bits that won't come off because you have missed a bolt....
 

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Discussion Starter #14
RXE, I tried at first to slide the manifold down the back after first threading the lambda wire down through the "Hole" The sheild caught on anything and everything but when the top of the sheild reached the aircon pipes that was it. The lambda wire is rigid and wouldn't fall into the right place and the aircon pipes stopped the top from slotting in place. Even if I reshaped the sheild it wouldn't help.

I couldn't remove the lambda as you then need access to screw it back in and the heatsheild puts a stop to all that. You also need room to get a big tool on it to nip it up tight or it will leak.

I chose to remove the whole manifold becuase the lambda cable is just to stiff to comply so it was easiest just to withdraw the whole lot, assemble on the ground with only 1 nut and leave it loose then slot it back in. To do this the Diff has to come off, the starter motor bracket has to come out and the gear linkage cables have to be disconnected. the manifold then comes out diagonally downwards towards the gearbox.
 

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Axle stands. Not ideal.

What is the record for removing the front subframe? I may have beaten the record. From fully assembled car to subframe off in 1.5 hours.
Not bad, I've replaced an ARB in 3...

And an engine in 10 (drive in, drive out) but I did have help...

The first and only time I've needed to remove the manifold was to get at that starter motor bolt, I did it by dropping it off all of the mounts except for the offside front. Engine was wobbling about above me on a trolley jack. It was difficult and certainly not an experience I wish to repeat.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Not bad, I've replaced an ARB in 3...

And an engine in 10 (drive in, drive out) but I did have help...

The first and only time I've needed to remove the manifold was to get at that starter motor bolt, I did it by dropping it off all of the mounts except for the offside front. Engine was wobbling about above me on a trolley jack. It was difficult and certainly not an experience I wish to repeat.
:yikes:

Next time, the manifolds go in the bin for sure and a pair of wizards will go in their place.
 

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Axle stands. Not ideal.

What is the record for removing the front subframe? I may have beaten the record. From fully assembled car to subframe off in 1.5 hours.
Not waving my dick around but that is pretty easy. But is completely dependent on how hard everything comes apart. I would say good on you, it is a complex operation. Not for the faint hearted, more because it is a daunting prospect when starting if doing at home.

The real challenge is getting it back on, on your own! haha
It is possible, but really much better to get a friend to help, otherwise a complete arse ache
 

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Not waving my dick around but that is pretty easy. But is completely dependent on how hard everything comes apart. I would say good on you, it is a complex operation. Not for the faint hearted, more because it is a daunting prospect when starting if doing at home.

The real challenge is getting it back on, on your own! haha
It is possible, but really much better to get a friend to help, otherwise a complete arse ache
The willy waving is a remnant of smaky and his attitude.
 

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Not waving my dick around but that is pretty easy. But is completely dependent on how hard everything comes apart. I would say good on you, it is a complex operation. Not for the faint hearted, more because it is a daunting prospect when starting if doing at home.

The real challenge is getting it back on, on your own! haha
It is possible, but really much better to get a friend to help, otherwise a complete arse ache
It certainly didn't go back on in 1.5 hours! It wasn't too bad though.

What is hard though is lining the lower wishbone backup, lifting and twisting it so that the bolt holes line up with the damper fork still in place and the caliper and disk still attached. Then putting a bolt in!
 
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