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Discussion Starter #1
Having had quite a lot of rain over the last 2 days,it got me thinking about a previous topic from Angel(l need a new engine!!!!),when his engine took on water after going through a flood.

I understand this is because of the low air intake by the OS front wheel on the 16v models.
Is there any modification for this air intake to stop this sort of thing happening again?
Also would it make any difference if any floods were driven through slowly or would the engine take on water regardless of speed?

Any thoughts on this would be greatly appreciated especially since l nearly floated to work this morning! eek!

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Ian H
 
J

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Discussion Starter #2
if you rip-arse through flood water you can be sure it will get in...i think the solution would be a k&n type filter mounted high up in the engine bay,the only problem is its always sucking warm air from under the bonnet which isnt good..pontiac solved both problems with the 'shaker hood' this bonnet had an air intake slot at the top of the bonnet facing the windscreen so it sucked in air from the low pressure area under the windscreen and if i remember correctly it gave a constant supply of cool air at any speed.and boy did it look good.
 
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Discussion Starter #3
its 'ram-air' not 'shaker'that faces the other way. :( :rolleyes:
 
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Discussion Starter #4
For some reason JB wants this posted here..........



.............can't think why :confused:

wrinx
 
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Discussion Starter #6
Good Idea for air intake, but what a bloody awefull car!; I've never been a fan of yank cars (except the Shelby Cobra)

Mark
 
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Discussion Starter #7
The 33 16V has a tube running from the airbox to under/behind the headlight.

It may be worth sticking a tube (Halfords sell some aluminium flexible pipe) from the air intake to somewhere similar on the 155.

Does anyone know what sort of arrangement the 155 V6 is supposed to have? Tarquini just has an oval hole in the bottom of the airbox. If you stick your fingers in there you can touch the filter.

It doesn't seem right to me but I can't see how you'd add any pipework to the bottom of the box - the flange there seems far too small (about 5mm).

Can someone with the parts CD post a pic of the whole airbox assembly?

Ralf S.
 

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If the water is deep enough and the car in front stalls then it doesn't matter what speed you're doing. My problem was not switching off the engine quick enough.

The point of entry for the air intake on the 155 is just above the near side front fog light which is very low indeed.

Including the air filter housing there are three chambers that make up the ram air system. The lowest chamber can be removed along with the pipe behind it. I have the idea that some flexy hose can be fed from a higher entry point on the front of the car to the entry point on the second chamber and secured.

This wouldn't be ideal as you'd still have a low entry point for the ram air but at least it would be an improvement.

BTW. My engine idle problem should be resolved tonight. The idle actuater was actually siezed due to the water intake which also fried the little motor inside. I managed to free it up so that the valve would move but it still won't work.

A bastid new one from Alfa (it's a Bosch part & no cheaper from them) is £129. I'll be fitting it tonight so fingers crossed. I just want to drive the sodding thing again.
 
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Discussion Starter #9
Right i'm confused now?

That pic of the american car. Are you saying it has ramair or shaker? (Thought shaker was a style of kitchen door :D )

If it was using ramair the intake would be facing the front and not the windscreen.

Just look at al the Jap bikes. Suzuki developed ramair for cooling cylinder heads on their 2-stroke triples back in the 70's.

Kawasaki have been using ramair induction since the 80's by having vents in the fairings then ducting back to the airbox. Faster you go the more air you get.

I would say that with the american thing the faster you go you would get the oposite effect?

?? :confused:
 
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Discussion Starter #10
The airbox intake pipe on my early 16v is different to the later one (oct '95 versus mar '97). It runs parallel with the bonnet slam panel, sucking air from the top centre behind the radiator. I am going to fit the early type to my later car as I too nearly drowned in a big puddle......
 
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Discussion Starter #11
a shaker hood faces forward... they just call it ram-air i know it faces the other way forget the blummin name its just to show you the idea of how it works...TIM according to the parts c.d the air pipe that runs along the slam panel is for south africa and japan,but it will fit any.
 
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Discussion Starter #12
the bull nose trans-am is one of the best looking yanks ever second only to the 1959 series 62 caddy. :)
 
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Discussion Starter #13
Is the air pipe that Tim and Jimybob mentioned going to be obtainable from a dealer even though its for the Japanese and South African markets?

If it is can anyone provide a part number?

This seems like a worthwhile modification.

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Ian H
 
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Discussion Starter #14
Interesting that the intake on my early car is SA or Japan, it's definitely not an import and I am second owner, maybe it had a modification or its just one of those 'strange' things that happenned at the factory......
 
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Discussion Starter #15
TIm, I have exactly the same thing on my 96 16v. Never really thought it strange but then you wouldn't if you know bugger all about engines. I go through puddles all the time and have never had a problem yet, maybe i am tempting fait, so what should i do it seems that there is know right way to go through a puddle.

Marcus
 
J

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Discussion Starter #16
my mistake pre96 cars all had it,after 96 it was only fitted to the japan and S.A cars.
if you want to convert the parts are as follows

60572710....£45.92

60573481....£35.10

60617404....£8.10 all plus vat.

looking at the parts c.d you could do without the last two items and if your clever you could make it all yourself.
 

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Fit a K&N 57i. It is cheaper! Then you can remove all the saxophone air box system. The kit comes with a flexible hose that you can duct to the air intake by the passengerside foglight (poke it, it just presses out behine the front bumper). Then drill a little hole in the top of the pipe and tie wrap it neatly onto the front bumper and snip. Tie the other end to the oval hole that is left where the pipe used to go into the air box and point it towards the cone. It will take quite a bit of pressure caused by deep water at speed to force water near my air filter. The problem with the standard air box is that it can act like a straw if you are not careful and suck it up. Turbos can be bad for this as they suck....... more air in!

The cooling isn't bad with a K&N as the filter is a bit away from the engine, well vented and separated by a chassis leg by the battery. If you are still worried, you could vent your wing!!
 
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Discussion Starter #19
Ralf S.:

Does anyone know what sort of arrangement the 155 V6 is supposed to have? Tarquini just has an oval hole in the bottom of the airbox.
Hi Ralf, from pictures I've seen of the V6 engine, the airbox looks the same as the 8 valves. In that oval hole should be a pipe about 6 inches long which kinda turns up the way. To this, a rubber pipe is fitted which is sort of twisted and basically moves the air intake to the top right of the radiator (lookin at the front of the car). This rubber pipe is connected to a long plasic tube with a "horn" intake which runs along the top of the radiator (under the strker panel)to the other side and sooks in air from high up in the engine bay. I actually removed this setup as I reckon it's to near a "hot" source to get cold air all the time. I buggered the tube with the horn on it though as the holding screws were really rusted.

Marlon
 
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Discussion Starter #20
Just read ALL the posts. Maybe the V6 changed after '96 like the other cars. Anyway, JB has listed the part numbers.

Incidently, my airbox is drilled, so if water tries to get up my cold air feed which is at the grill beside the foglight, I think the car will sook the air in through the holes in my airbox 'cos that would be easier (path of least resistance and all that....).
Would I be correct in thinking this ???

Henry, the K&N kit is alright for you 16 valvers 'cos the filter sits in the gap you mention. On us old timer 8 valves, the filter sits behind the battery and is kept all lovely and warm. It's not even easy trying to route the cold air feed as the filter sits in such a daft place.

Marlon
 
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