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Hi,

Is it doable DIY to replace the suspension set at own garage?
I know the basic mechanism. So I assume I would be able to do if well assisted from this forum.
I am thinking of ordering adjustable suspension kit shortly. But I don't wish to pay for labor fee which would be as much as suspension kit costs.
 

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Quite possibly ... depends on your knowledge, skills and tools available. You will definitely need a ball-joint splitter, torx sockets, 7mm & 12mm hex sockets and the usual array of good open-ended & ring spanners and sockets. A good torque wrench is also vital. Getting a copy of elearn (or DTE) is worthwhile as this will show you the process and torque settings.

Some of the bolts will no doubt be problematic ... the front lower strut fork bolt and the rear bolts holding the transverse arms to the strut/hub mounting. Most of these will need to be cut off and replaced and remember to replace ALL nylok (self-locking) nuts.

If removing springs from struts you'll need a spring compressor.

Axle stands are a must! You will need to get both sides of the car up to do this kind of work.

At the end though you will need to get the four wheels aligned professionally.
 

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If you put enough WD40 around the 12mm (I thought it was a 10mm gazza? just checking cos I did it two weeks ago and I sware it was. Anyway if you have a set it won't cause a problem.) hex bolt that connects the strut to the "tuning fork" and then put a set of mole grips around its head while undoing it shouldn't round out. This is the most problematic of all the bolts on the front suspension. Oh and if you have a long bar (1.5M +) You might be able to get away with not having a ball joint splitter. (I use it and its worked so far!! lol) Not ideal but saves a few quid.
 

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Might be 10 ... I'll defer you your knowledge. I've not had to do mine yet, but given the knocks and squeaks I hear, the shocks must be getting worn and weak after 134k miles!
 

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The difficulty depends on how rusty is your suspension - I've done the suspension three times on the 156 and its hard work but not overly difficult and takes about 4 hours all together.

If the nuts and bolts are rusty / corroded then it can be a different mater.
 

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On mine, the pinch bolts that secure the damper to the aluminum suspension fork had welded themselves in place. Well done Alfa for using standard steel bolts to secure aluminum! Took ages to drill them out carefully.
 

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Hi folks,

Is this a good video for studying how-to prior to get on the job?

How to replace shocks and struts | Wonder How To

Best,
Seongtaek
The basic idea is similar if you look at the "Shock replacement" part but no way can you put spring clamps on before you remove the complete unit, there is not enough room.

The 156 is very specific to do but once you know the procedure its "straight forward enough"

You should try and find a "how to" on one of the forums before you start anything
 
J

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on a slight thread divert, how do you split the cv joint from the shaft, is it a circlip?

am just about to do a CV boot and wanted to save a bit of time by knowing what to do
 

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Hey guys,

What's your opinion about difficulty level differences between front and rear damper replacements?
Front suspension was more complicated to change I found, but rear was just as time consuming because the bolts are longer and were rustier on mine and so wouldn't budge at all. As mentioned above, a torque wrench is essential... but so is a big hammer!:lol:
 

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If there is no corrosion then the rears are very easy and straight forward, you hardly even need to use spring compressors
 

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you mean this one?
 

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2 spindle axles in the damper body didn't come off. Do I have to jack up to find the altitude to release those axles?
This is where the big hammer comes in, Only way I could get them out was a good 20 minutes of me and a mate taking turns hitting with a hammer while the other tried to spin them from the other side with a wrench to get them to free up, really was a **** to get them out.
 
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