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Discussion Starter #1
:cry: Hello Experts,

I have certain question here for you guys regarding my 145 TS1.8


1)regarding Cam timing

As one of the steps in changing the cam belt is aligning pointer on tesnsioner to match with index hole on plate.Does this pointer always keeps pointing to hole even after engine run?becuase in my case it never and keeps chaning

2) My car did not start after engine build then I removed the MAF and it starts but revolution are not regular and there are some detonations in engine .is this due to MAF ?(wrong airsupply)any suggestions what could be the reason.This is at idling though I have not checked by putting in gear



Please help!!
 

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Discussion Starter #2
another question is if I did my cam belt with painted notch on exhuast pully matching with one on belt ,does after turing enging it will always be matching

TA
 

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Ah, this sounds like a belt change without locks gone bad, if your engines runing, place your hand on the intake manifold, it should be cold when runing, if it's hot to the touch you have bent valves in the corresponding cylinders, this is a sure sign that the belt is not tensioned correctly, as for the pain marks, after 16 (I think) revoloutins of the crank the mark should line up again on the cam, this is because of the length of the belt and the difference in size of the cams to crank pulleys (1:2). But if you rotate the crank twice then the cam should be back on position.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Hi Smaky,

Here you are again for my rescue!Thanks !
CAn you let me know about tensioner pully pointer and index hole.Do they always align or pointer keeps moving to edjust the tension.

Regards
 

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When you set the tension of the belt initially (with both cam wheels loose) you have to get the pointer in the center of the hole, then tighten the wheels up, rotate the crank twice back to TDC #1 and the pointer should return to the center of the hole. But as you suspect, as the engine is rotating the pointer will rise and fall to take up slack which is why it's not on the working side of the loop (the pulling side).
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Smaky,

I noticed one thing today when I increase the RPM ny pressing padel there are no detonations and and as soon as I release it and it tries to settle for idle RPM detonations start coming.

Also my break padel is stiff(does not operate at all) and ABS light is on.I tried to put car in gear and moved it a bit front and back after some time my gear know felt hot .

Any pointers

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I think you've bent some valves, from what I think you've said, with the car idling, place your hand on the intake manifold, if it's hot then you have. This will also pressurise the brake vacuum hose making the brakes try to lock on, this will activate the ABS and illuminate the warning light, as for the gears, you lost me there??? Don't understand what you're geting at.
 

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hi,

sorry i could not understand how bent valves might affect breaking.

TA
It's all to do with the pressure in the manifold, you need a vacuum to assist the master cylinder in making the pedal feel lighter to use. If you have bent valves then the cylinder that is firing is not sealed and the hot/high pressure gases escape out and through the inlet manifold, raising the pressure in the manifold and destroying the vacuum which should be there, and because there is no vacuum the brakes become hard, as the pressure of the manifold acts on the master cylinder bellow. 170 psi (~12 bar) is probably more than you can apply to the pedal.
 
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