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Discussion Starter #1
How reliable is the q4 system? Would you say bullet proof or often needs servicing or a complete headache?
Can I find spare parts for it from audi if I need to?

Also in Egypt we only have 92ron, 95 is 3 times the price and 98 Ron is so rare I won't call it available. So is it possible to use 92 Ron and if not can I still use it and add an octane booster every time I fill up. Just a few questions helping me decide...
 

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Here in Europe we use RON (95 being the minimum), but in the US they use (RON+MON)/2 which typically gives results about 5 points lower.

Try to find out which is used in Egypt, if it's the US system 92 is more than adequate.
 

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I've not had any issues with mine and can't recall a single thread about problems with the AWD system, that's not to say things can't go wrong just that its very unlikely.

It's not a haldex system so I doubt parts will be interchangeable, you might be able to get parts off the RS Audi's which also use a permanent full time system but parts may not be interchangeable.

If it goes wrong you will likely need to get the bits from Europe I expect, even if RS Audi's use the same system there not exactly cheap or numerous so i doubt it will be a simple case of ringing the local scrappy
 

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I've not had any issues with mine and can't recall a single thread about problems with the AWD system, that's not to say things can't go wrong just that its very unlikely.

It's not a haldex system so I doubt parts will be interchangeable, you might be able to get parts off the RS Audi's which also use a permanent full time system but parts may not be interchangeable.

If it goes wrong you will likely need to get the bits from Europe I expect, even if RS Audi's use the same system there not exactly cheap or numerous so i doubt it will be a simple case of ringing the local scrappy
There are a few threads about 4WD problems - mine among them.

For some the prop bearings have failed - and as it's a welded prop in three parts, with two bearings, that's not been designed to be serviceable, it's a bit of problem finding someone who can.

Others have had problems with the transfer box/power take off. Seems the standard thinking is fit a seond hand replacement - but how do you know the replacement is going to last any amount of time? It's a bog standard ZF 2-stage power take off unit, so I've asked ZF for a parts list and rebuild info. It's not a complicated unit, the failure on mine was the taper roller on the output shaft - a 16 quid bearing - but I need info on the preload needed on reassembly. Just took a day and a half to get the engine etc out to get to it!

3.2 V6 Engine timing chain stretch - I'm taking advantage of the engine out to sort mine. Obviously stretched when you take a look - chains do anyway, it just puts this engine out of oiperating tolerances (as a machinery design engineer, chain stretch is something I have to take into account all the time).

Subframe rust - seems some have had rust holes in the subframe - it appears to be either crap paint, or crap application. Again, due to having the engine out to get to the power take off, I'm having my subframe blasted, after sorting out all the spinnig nut-serts for the undertray etc, and preotecting all the threads, then I'm going to paint it with epoxy paint. I'm not a great fan of powder-coating, which I know others have used, due to seeing too many instances of where the coating has got damaged with a stone chip or similar, allowing water in under the coating. So a quick glance shows lovely shiny coating, but underneath, the metal is rusing merrily until the coating falls off. I'm hoping the paint, applied to a blasted surface, as per instructions, will not do the same.

And I had to sort out the water leaks through the door seals and a leaking body joint.

Other than that, I thinks it's ace :biglaugh: Could job I've owned Italian cars, Lancia and Alfa, since I was 19, so I expect these things :smoker:
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Here in Europe we use RON (95 being the minimum), but in the US they use (RON+MON)/2 which typically gives results about 5 points lower.

Try to find out which is used in Egypt, if it's the US system 92 is more than adequate.
our system is like the UK, any ideas if 92 would work?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
There are a few threads about 4WD problems - mine among them.

For some the prop bearings have failed - and as it's a welded prop in three parts, with two bearings, that's not been designed to be serviceable, it's a bit of problem finding someone who can.

Others have had problems with the transfer box/power take off. Seems the standard thinking is fit a seond hand replacement - but how do you know the replacement is going to last any amount of time? It's a bog standard ZF 2-stage power take off unit, so I've asked ZF for a parts list and rebuild info. It's not a complicated unit, the failure on mine was the taper roller on the output shaft - a 16 quid bearing - but I need info on the preload needed on reassembly. Just took a day and a half to get the engine etc out to get to it!

3.2 V6 Engine timing chain stretch - I'm taking advantage of the engine out to sort mine. Obviously stretched when you take a look - chains do anyway, it just puts this engine out of oiperating tolerances (as a machinery design engineer, chain stretch is something I have to take into account all the time).

Subframe rust - seems some have had rust holes in the subframe - it appears to be either crap paint, or crap application. Again, due to having the engine out to get to the power take off, I'm having my subframe blasted, after sorting out all the spinnig nut-serts for the undertray etc, and preotecting all the threads, then I'm going to paint it with epoxy paint. I'm not a great fan of powder-coating, which I know others have used, due to seeing too many instances of where the coating has got damaged with a stone chip or similar, allowing water in under the coating. So a quick glance shows lovely shiny coating, but underneath, the metal is rusing merrily until the coating falls off. I'm hoping the paint, applied to a blasted surface, as per instructions, will not do the same.

And I had to sort out the water leaks through the door seals and a leaking body joint.

Other than that, I thinks it's ace :biglaugh: Could job I've owned Italian cars, Lancia and Alfa, since I was 19, so I expect these things :smoker:
is their a reason they fail like hard driving or do they just fail. Cant find a fwd 3.2 in germany with the autobox... so what should i look for when buying to make sure the q4 system is good and how did u know when the bearing and power delivery system failed?

thought the steching was more with the 2.2? do u get a warning on the dash when it happens? how often do u advice a 3 chain and auxiliary belt replacement

im 20 now ive only owned a 156 selespeed and driven my dad's lancia dedra a few times...
 

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is their a reason they fail like hard driving or do they just fail. Cant find a fwd 3.2 in germany with the autobox... so what should i look for when buying to make sure the q4 system is good and how did u know when the bearing and power delivery system failed?

thought the steching was more with the 2.2? do u get a warning on the dash when it happens? how often do u advice a 3 chain and auxiliary belt replacement

im 20 now ive only owned a 156 selespeed and driven my dad's lancia dedra a few times...
I only learnt about the power take off problem once mine started to make a noise - quick google and search on here and there's more than one. The damage to the bearing is weird - the spalling on the rollers indicates overloading - now whether that is due to the useage being greater than the design load, or it has run low on oil at some point, I don't know. Strangely, it's only half the bearing too.

As for the chains - again, I didn't know until I spotted the problems posted on here. Then more googling and it appears to be a problem wherever the engine is used - in GM cars, Alfa, Suzuki. You may well find a GM specialist would be fine with servicing it. I don't think you plan for a change - only when it's worn. I've read a lot on all forums, including this one, about lack of lubrication, too long a service interval, the wrong oil. To me, as a design engineer, it's simply the use of three chains, and their perfectly normal stretching and wear, throwing the system outside it's parameters, combined with the expected wear of guides and such. It's nine year old car - I would expect a machine I'd designed to be serviced wayyy before that - but admittedly I would have made access a little better :biglaugh: Combined with the fact it's a right pain to get to in an 159 compared to say a Cadillac, and it becomes an expensive job. I've not got any dash warnings, I've got a bit of acceptable chain rattle, but as the engine is out to sort the power take off, I'm doing them now.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I guess that's easy to check for.... And maybe some fresh multiaxle oil for the differentials when I get her. As for the engine I usually change my oil at 5k km anyway so no worries there.
Thank you for ur time and all the info, answered my questions and more. Appreciate it a lot!
 

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Also in Egypt we only have 92 RON, 95 RON is 3 times the price and 98 RON is so rare I won't call it available. So is it possible to use 92 RON and if not can I still use it and add an octane booster every time I fill up....
From the manual:
Unleaded petrol
with no less than 95 R.O.N.
(EN228 Specification)
So the clear answer is: run it on 95 RON.

What did you use in your 156 Selespeed?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
My 156 ran on 92 ron perfectly for 2 years ownership no rattles or bad idle. I used 95 Ron once and it made absolutely no difference so I stuck with 92. I used 10w60 valvoline racing and changed the oil every 6000km. A friend of mine owns a G qv and it also runs fine on 92
 
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