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I have been doing a few jobs on my newly purchased car (will update soon) and one of these jobs was topping up the battery. I went to start the car this morning and it was dead. It seems to be the little black box that sits on top of the battery as when i jiggled it the car started. I have had the same problem 3 times today. Once started the car runs fine. Not sure if it is a problem with the 50 amp fuse inside the box as this seems to be a bit 'bendy' and weak or with the connection to the positive terminal. It is hard to get to the nut on the positive battery terminal with a spanner but i have managed to do this. It doesn't seemt to tighten so i think the thread has gone. It also moves a bit. Is this connection the main one to the positive of the battery?

I think i may need a new black fuse box thingy - what is this called? :confused:. I have had a look on ebay but on there are only the proper fuse boxes as shown below:-

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ALFA-ROMEO-156-98-03-FUSE-BOX-/220759316435?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item336647d7d3

Can anyone advise and tell me where to look if i need a new/secondhand one of these?

:thumbs:
 

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I know this is an old post, so my assupmtion is youve fixed this now, I woke up this morning and have got the exact same problem, unlocked car, went to start and the ignition lights came on as usual, but as soon as I turned the key to turn over everything went dead, no power what so ever and couldnt even lock the car via the central locking. Wiggled the box on the battery positive and the fuel pump started wherring so held it down and got friend to start car, all good, but as soon as I stopped the car would not start again without me repeating the process of holding the box to get the connection. Cannot seem to tighten the nut either, so, long story cut short, what did you do to sort the problem? Has anyone else had the problem too as im a little worried as the car cut out when I went to flash the lights to let someone out and wouldnt restart even whilst rolling at 30mph.
 

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I THINK I have attatched picture of the battery, its the nut that holds to the battery, red/black cable running to it. The whole thing is very wobbly, so concerned about it, im probably just being an idiot and its something else thats loose, but not sure
 

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The nut on the big red cable just holds that cable to the connector block, but if that nut is spinning it won't be helping...!
The battery clamp is the small nut pointing sideways under the box.
 

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That nut is absolutely fine, so went through all the nuts to tighten and they are all good, but box still seems to be wobbling like a see saw, electrical connection only seems to be maintained when im actually pressing (gently) down anywhere on the left hand side of the box
 

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Thanks for the info, but everything there seems as tight as possible, box is still wobbling about, and wont hold connection without some finger power, do these boxes normally have a little play in them or should it all be nice and rigid?

The clamp on the battary is fine and doesnt move at all when im wiggling the box as well
 

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just checked daughters car yes it wobbles a little bit too but has power all the time.
if you can only hold power by pressing on the left side, it may pay to check the red fuse between the black cable and row of nuts as it appears that you may have a break there and when you press it connects. as a last resort you could put a self tapping screw into the top of the battery to hold in down untill you get it sorted 8-10 mm max screw.
cheers steve
 

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That big red fuse is for the ABS.
I'm sure the car still starts even with it removed.

Clearly a poor connection between the battery +ve terminal and the fuse box (or in the fuse box).

FIRST remove the battery -ve terminal.
Then remove the ABS cable (the one on the small nut) and the main starter cable (the one on the 13mm nut).
Then remove the two nuts either side of that 13mm nut.
You can then remove the box from the terminal clamp.
And then remove the terminal clamp.
Clean everything.
Apply some contact grease if you have any or Vaseline if you haven't, then put everything back together and connect the -ve terminal LAST.
 

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That was my thinking, take it all off, clean it, see if there is a dead bird wedged under the box, you know, normal stuff lol. Thanks for the guide through on the order for removal/replacement, very handy, thanks guys, both been really helpfully, ill let you know how it goes, think i will take a tentative drive home, not flash my headlights at anyone and hopefully get home safely and then have a crack at getting it starting without my help.

Cheers

Joe
 

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Hi guys, thanks again for all your help regarding my little, but devestating problem. After further investigation and a couple more times stuck on the side of the road trying to restart, I have discovered the problem, and done a stupid, but so far successful bodge repair whilst I await the actual part from the suppliers. Running from the clamp around the positive terminal is a steel plate S bend that the ABS and the starter cables bolt onto. Somehow, this 2mm thick steel plate has snapped on one of the bends causing the break in contact and thus the power cutting out. Welding the joint is a possiblity, but as far as I can see the steel is moulded into the plastic of the fuse box and I didnt want to risk it, so I have been forced to order the part. Temporarily however, I have (probably very stupidly) managed to maintain a connection with some aluminimum kitchen foil, which seems to be working until the part arrives sometime next week, obviously I am not suggesting this is a good idea, but unfortunately needs must in my situation as my car is my lifeline at work, however if anyone can see a MAJOR issue with me doing so, please say, because the last thing I want to do is cause major problems with the electrics in the future. Further advise is, as always, greatly appreciated. Thanks again and happy driving guys :)
 

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Small update on the progress of the part that I have ordered. Went to the Alfa specialists in Brands Hatch (bloody great garage by the way - Day and Whites) and we went through the diagrams for the 2.5 v6 engine, got the part number and tried to order the part directly through the alfa parts suppliers. This part is no longer available, I dont know why but they no longer stock or supply this part, obviously you may have more luck than I did if you have the same problem as I am sure there are a few lying around in some suppliers warehouse somewhere in the world, but we had no luck. So the only option was second hand part via a breakers yard, which they very helpfully phoned around until they got the part whilst I waited. Got the part for a hefty fee £90 with next day delivery though, so probably wouldnt have been so much if I didnt want it so urgently, Ive now fitted the part, very quick and easy about 45minutes and its back to perfect running order, so if your having a similar problem I hope this helps. Cheers guys
 

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Thanks for those who posted, very useful information.
I also believe I have had a similar problem on three separate occasions. I (probably wrongly) believed it may be a fault with the complexities of the electronic system as power suddenly dies the after I disconnected the battery (earth lead) and reconnected after an hour or so.
The fault started when I accidently set off the alarm after opening the tailgate with the key. I couldn't turn off the alarm with the key and when I got in the car it was dead. I thought it may be alarm related and saw something on the web about disconnecting the battery for over 30 minutes to reset the system.
The second two times I've had problems was when I turned the key to start the engine. Today I got to the stage of checking the battery voltage and earth lead. To do this I lifted the fuse cover on the positive terminal, found nothing wrong, but when I reconnected the earth lead the car started!
I guess I need to take some time to check connections an clean things up. One oddity is that since my problems the windows do not operate as they should.
 

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There should be a plastic clip that attaches to the bus box(?)( the black plastic bit with fuses in) and the top of the battery,that stops the box moving as much,but they are usually broken or missing,allowing the metal part to keep flexing. It is made worse if the starter motor cable is badly routed,putting more tension on the metal bit . . .
A mates car had the same issue,to get him mobile,I used a length of 4.5 mm cable,doubled up, and wrapped it around the bike for the battery terminal,then using the nut on the said bolt,clamped it up. I connected the other two ends to two of the terminals in the box . . .not pretty,but it got him home!
 

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I've cleaned up the terminals and read through that post.
There's nothing to indicate the car is trying to turn the engine at all, the lights don't go dim there are no sounds when i turn the key. The fan does go off but no the radio if that's on.

I've also noticed it's popping up with 'distance to service 0 miles' Which isn't something I've seen before. Can this be related?
 

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I've cleaned up the terminals and read through that post.
There's nothing to indicate the car is trying to turn the engine at all, the lights don't go dim there are no sounds when i turn the key. The fan does go off but no the radio if that's on.

I've also noticed it's popping up with 'distance to service 0 miles' Which isn't something I've seen before. Can this be related?
oops. Had to tabs open and posted my reply on the wrong one. Apologies for waking up the thread unintentionally!
 
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