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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
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3.2 JTS is now running well although I have yet to get my rear boxes. So I am now giving my attention to my 3.0 GTV.

She has been brilliant over the years, had her since June 2000. Apart from a couple of months, driven for work until I got my 156, she has been a summer Holiday car, going home to see Mama on several occasions. Sometimes driven both ways to Florence and Verona, and on a few other occasions cosseted on motor rail, both ways or one way with the other driven.

This car has always been best suited to long distances across the Continent and wherever she went there were admiring glances - on some occasions when I had the audacity to pull up on the outside lane at lights, with more than a few Ferraris on the inside. Could never stop baiting the opposition, even if it was for the first ten feet.

But many a Ferrari driver paid homage to the car by floating past and then pulling into the inside lane to let me past, so they could take in the view.

Its time however to think of her, future, hopefully with someone who would care for her as much as I do. She‘s not a show car; but very well could be, she’s, remains completely original, apart from the Tele - dials, which although a better ride with 225/50/17’s I don’t like. The Originals, which I still have are much nicer IMO.

They don’t look aggressive, just as the shape of the GTV isn’t. Which belies the fact that it is a great GT. Quick too, and the five speed box suits her, with a lovely choice of ratios. The Torque just seems to overlap as one moves through the gears. I will miss that, and her.

The bumpers are being removed and taken to the spray shop on Tuesday. But the rest of the body is ding free, with a few small scratches but no rust whatsoever. That’s what comes of living most of her life in the garage.

None the less, having watched Neil’s video on YouTube, I felt confident about removing the bumpers, but was still a little anxious about what I might find.

I needn’t have been, the rear bumper came off with a lot less effort than Neil had to make, and no need to hammer the hex drive into the fixings - nice and clean, so a doddle really.

The intention is to have the Bumpers resprayed, refitted, MOT - ed, then the body polished, light scratches removed and touch - ups, that’s it.

When this, is all done, I may think about re-chrome - ing the inlet tracts. With under 30,500 miles on the clock she probably deserves that. But that’s all, no titivating for her - the engine bay will be as she came from Alfa.

I took. The silly badges off her when I bought it, not wanting to follow the Japanese Trend for as many numbers an letters on the boot as would fit. She is simply a GTV, a concession being homage to the Stylists - Pininfarina, with the name and their shield above.

The Tan leather remains pristine - new really, steering wheel, gaiters and gear stick show no evidence of use really and the gearbox as tight as she was since I bought it. Never seen the need to snatch gears with Alfa’s, torque has always been adequate with a good spread to match the ratios.

Every Alfa I have owned gave the impression they are under - geared. The 3.0 litre GTV is no different. But 145 mph for 12 - 14 minutes, coming out of Switzerland and heading for Strasbourg demonstrated, gearing more than matched the engines flexibility.

What a joy it has been to own her.
 

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A long storied tenure with this lovely car. I look forward to seeing more of it through out prep and when it reaches market.
 
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
A long storied tenure with this lovely car. I look forward to seeing more of it through out prep and when it reaches market.
Came across this Thread:-


and thought, OMG! Need to check mine. So I though it would be good idea to take off the front wings - a couple of small hex or Philips screws and a pair of 10mm. Bolts. No chance and it is suggested the plastic sill covers are a pig to remove, without damaging them. So I gave up. Unless someone knows of a “Damage - free method”, I’ll just take what pictures I can.

I can’t think the condition of those sub panels/platform braces would be typical. Surely it is just a bit of bad luck.
 

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Came across this Thread:-


and thought, OMG! Need to check mine. So I though it would be good idea to take off the front wings - a couple of small hex or Philips screws and a pair of 10mm. Bolts. No chance and it is suggested the plastic sill covers are a pig to remove, without damaging them. So I gave up. Unless someone knows of a “Damage - free method”, I’ll just take what pictures I can.

I can’t think the condition of those subpanels/platform braces would be typical. Surely it is just a bit of bad luck.
if you don't see any rust in the upper part of the panel which is exposed without removing wing and simply by lifting the bonnet, there is a good chance you will be fine. I have had my car for nearly 5 years, and when I bought it there was some surface rust protruding at the top corner and I said to myself one day I will get to it. Well, I finally did and you saw the result. As a preventative measure I would waxoil the areas around scuttle and inner pillars and just make sure all water channels are clear and you should minimise future rust. Given my car has only done 63000 miles but not a garage queen, there is a chance other GTVs might also have this issue.

On the side skirt issue, that's a whole different story. From what I've seen on posts and Youtube, GTVs are prone to rust in the sills so at some point all owners should remove, inspect, clean, waxoil and refit side skirts. Also, the screws tend to rust and and come out with the side skirts. Although I've salvaged 50% I will be replacing them all. I did break one of the fixings on lower side skirt but just plastic welded it back. Small price to pay....
 

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30k miles, one owner for 21 years, you should ask top price and stick to it, no offers.
 
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
30k miles, one owner for 21 years, you should ask top price and stick to it, no offers.

If the rear bumper came off dead easy, the front one was having none of it! Jeez, I have never spent so much money on a long shank 1/2 inch ratchet - ever. Everything was nice and clean, but whoever torqued down the two Hex - bolts was in training for “The World’s Strongest Man”.

Again Neil’s video was a great help, with everything in their place and free-ed off easily. Not however - those two bolts!!!!

Once the bumper was off, another black coffee and a sit down, to take in what was before my eyes.

To cut to the chase, two issues:-

1) Inlet tubes re-chromed! A must as they let everything else down. There is not a bit of rust anywhere on the front superstructure - just incredible!

2) The Oil cooler is showing some evidence of weeping, either from the hoses or the radiator. Not a lot as levels in the engine are still good, but I need to replace it.

Last year, having so much time on my hands I thought I would try some buffing of the front bumper, hoping I could recover some colour. The only success I had was to splatter the waxy buffing compound all over the radiator, headlights and bumper trims. Pink - Splatter!

So I have a bit of work to do with some detergent, a soft brush and a sponge. It‘s not going to add too much to the general clean up - just a bit of extra elbow grease.

Took on board Baz’s observations about the front wings and monocoque strengthening panels. Again, there is no evidence of corrosion, in any shape or form.

I missed out on a pair of new plastic sill covers which would have relieved the worry of taking mine off and damaging them. However, when the car was last MOT - ed, I had pictures taken of the floor pan and the sills. Again the underside was pristine. Then the whole was wax oiled. So on the basis of this evidence, I will leave the sills alone, confident, they will be no worse than the underside/inside of them is. I’ll get some wax oil into the pillars though.

All in all, after the work with the 159, this is going to be much more relaxing. Tomorrow, I shall spend taking all the furniture off the front bumper before taking it, along with the rear to the spray shop. They are pretty busy, but that is not a problem for me. I popped in to confirm Friday was fine, which it is. However, one of the guys was just finishing off a couple of panels - red at that. If they get the same finish on mine I shall be well chuffed.

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
30k miles, one owner for 21 years, you should ask top price and stick to it, no offers.
Neglected to add - I need a drivers side front fog/indicator/side light unit. Glass cracked horizontally across the middle. Suppose they must be rocking horse droppings. Are they common to all phases?
 

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I can sympathise with the stubborn front bumper bolts. One of mine came free eventually, the other has a rounded hex so I removed the headlight and the bracket. One day I’ll get it off. Your leak could be the oil cooler, I’ve had that as well. Good luck trying to get the pipes off that! I ended up using the Autolusso kit to replace mine.


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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I can sympathise with the stubborn front bumper bolts. One of mine came free eventually, the other has a rounded hex so I removed the headlight and the bracket. One day I’ll get it off. Your leak could be the oil cooler, I’ve had that as well. Good luck trying to get the pipes off that! I ended up using the Autolusso kit to replace mine.


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Thanks for that Arch,

The fixings were as clean as a whistle, no corrosion on the threads whatsoever. In fact the front as a whole is unbelievably clean.

The rear bumper bolts came out with an eight inch long, 3/8ths ratchet. But the fronts had been torqued down really hard. Neil did an earlier video and he commented that he broke a headlight trying to release one of the bolts. There is not much room there and it would be easily done if turning force is not properly controlled. Actually the 3/8th extension was twisting, yet no movement on the hex bolt.

So I went to a local tool shop and bought a 1/2 inch ratchet, extendable from 17 to 24inches. Cracking bit of kit, but £43 - ouch. But I have struggled over the years: and am struggling more now, so it seemed sensible not to continue to make life difficult for myself.

God, they were tight, but cracked off in a jiffy. Will be handy elsewhere and when refitting.

Was there any modifications to be made with Autolusso’s cooler? I fitted one of theirs to my GT an it did the job but I was never really happy with it. I think I will only be comfortable with an Alfa replacement, or have mine repaired. It’s not going to be mine much longer and I want it to be “Honest” if you get my drift. If I were keeping it, there wouldn’t be an issue. Cobblers, I must stop kidding myself, it would still be an issue. Not kept it all these years not to keep it original, even though I‘m sure it would be fine.

There is more than a touch of sadness that she has to go, so I am in no hurry for the paint shop to complete and I will spend a few weeks really getting down to making sure everything is 100% - scrupulously clean.

I won’t take the inlet tubes off until everything else is done. By that time I should have the engine looking really smart.

I am glad I’ve got the Q4 however as it lessens the impact, especially as I think it is now quicker than the GTV.
Not quite the same though, with those sloping front doors, making you feel that much closer to the road. Makes you feel like you are piloting it, rather than driving it.
 

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Thanks for that Arch,

The fixings were as clean as a whistle, no corrosion on the threads whatsoever. In fact the front as a whole is unbelievably clean.

The rear bumper bolts came out with an eight inch long, 3/8ths ratchet. But the fronts had been torqued down really hard. Neil did an earlier video and he commented that he broke a headlight trying to release one of the bolts. There is not much room there and it would be easily done if turning force is not properly controlled. Actually the 3/8th extension was twisting, yet no movement on the hex bolt.

So I went to a local tool shop and bought a 1/2 inch ratchet, extendable from 17 to 24inches. Cracking bit of kit, but £43 - ouch. But I have struggled over the years: and am struggling more now, so it seemed sensible not to continue to make life difficult for myself.

God, they were tight, but cracked off in a jiffy. Will be handy elsewhere and when refitting.

Was there any modifications to be made with Autolusso’s cooler? I fitted one of theirs to my GT an it did the job but I was never really happy with it. I think I will only be comfortable with an Alfa replacement, or have mine repaired. It’s not going to be mine much longer and I want it to be “Honest” if you get my drift. If I were keeping it, there wouldn’t be an issue. Cobblers, I must stop kidding myself, it would still be an issue. Not kept it all these years not to keep it original, even though I‘m sure it would be fine.

There is more than a touch of sadness that she has to go, so I am in no hurry for the paint shop to complete and I will spend a few weeks really getting down to making sure everything is 100% - scrupulously clean.

I won’t take the inlet tubes off until everything else is done. By that time I should have the engine looking really smart.

I am glad I’ve got the Q4 however as it lessens the impact, especially as I think it is now quicker than the GTV.
Not quite the same though, with those sloping front doors, making you feel that much closer to the road. Makes you feel like you are piloting it, rather than driving it.
Same with mine, just very tight, and one rounded.

The oil cooler kit is easy to fit and does the job, and saves removing/tilting the engine to get at the pipe connections near the oil filter. The rubber replacement pipes do seem a bit exposed though. The pipe connections to my oil cooler were solid, wouldnt budge, and too much force can destroy the cooler, so I opted for this option. In a perfect world I would have replaced it as standard, but the cost really didnt make sense. The pipes and cooler are expensive, before the labour. You can get better rubber pipe connections made up - JeremyG put a recent post up about it. Like you, I only noticed it was leaking after removing the bumper.


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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Same with mine, just very tight, and one rounded.

The oil cooler kit is easy to fit and does the job, and saves removing/tilting the engine to get at the pipe connections near the oil filter. The rubber replacement pipes do seem a bit exposed though. The pipe connections to my oil cooler were solid, wouldnt budge, and too much force can destroy the cooler, so I opted for this option. In a perfect world I would have replaced it as standard, but the cost really didnt make sense. The pipes and cooler are expensive, before the labour. You can get better rubber pipe connections made up - JeremyG put a recent post up about it. Like you, I only noticed it was leaking after removing the bumper.


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I took the cowling off the front face of the oil cooler, a) because it needs cleaning, and b) I wanted to see the condition of the cooler, ie. had there been any facial damage, having been struck by some foreign object - a small stone or the like.

Or was it due to general weakening of the welds. Can’t really tell at the moment as the whole face is slathered with oil, top to bottom.

I checked out online the prices of new coolers and that gave me a fright! However, I found a company in Yorkshire - always found Yorkshire a good source for quality engineering - who will repair, rebuild or remanufacture my cooler. They pick up and drop off as well, so assuming the quote is fair, I think I’ll go with them.

I can see what you are driving at when it comes to getting the braided hoses off. However, bitter experience has taught me not to clamp the cooler, or leave it fixed on the car when cracking off the connections. Having got the bumper and the cowl off, the hose nuts are nicely accessible for a good spanner; as is the braised nuts attached to the cooler element.

However, I first need to remove the cooler from its mounting bracket on the car, to allow it to “Float”. Then, with two correct size spanner’s, one on the braised nut and the other on the braided hose nut, counter force can be applied without any torque transferring to the cooler, because it is floating. All that is necessary is to keep good purchase on the nuts and apply steady pressure. If the left hand torque is greater then the right, the radiator will just turn/move; and vice versa the right greater.

All this has to be done with a nice cup of black coffee - Colombian Arabica - from a garden chair in front of the Alfa, reminiscing about holidays and long drives across Europe.

If the hose still seems a little stubborn, because the cooler is off the car, a little heat from a gas gun, applied to the braided hose nut, should be enough for it to crack off. Keeping the flame away from the hose of course!

Did not get the bumpers down to the spray shop as a lot of time was spent taking all the Furniture off the front bumper, avoiding damaging it as I did so. God, there are a lot of bits to put back. once they are cleaned, I must find a way of restoring the “Black” - any recommendations? It should be my wife doing the prepping as she is brilliant. Me! Really disgraceful the way I neglect polishing any of my cars. The mechanical side is everything to me; tarting thing up - never. I do enjoy hiding things however. If there is a seam or a joint anywhere, which does not look right, spoils the flow of things, I like to hide it. I’ve not done this with my Alfa’s, but people would be hard pressed to find a joint in some of my handy work.

But I really hate the way modern cars have some beautifully sculptured panels, broken up by a seam, which invariably ruins the aesthetics.

Wiper arms off next and windscreen “Scuttle” removal to check what lurks below.
 

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I took the cowling off the front face of the oil cooler, a) because it needs cleaning, and b) I wanted to see the condition of the cooler, ie. had there been any facial damage, having been struck by some foreign object - a small stone or the like.

Or was it due to general weakening of the welds. Can’t really tell at the moment as the whole face is slathered with oil, top to bottom.

I checked out online the prices of new coolers and that gave me a fright! However, I found a company in Yorkshire - always found Yorkshire a good source for quality engineering - who will repair, rebuild or remanufacture my cooler. They pick up and drop off as well, so assuming the quote is fair, I think I’ll go with them.

I can see what you are driving at when it comes to getting the braided hoses off. However, bitter experience has taught me not to clamp the cooler, or leave it fixed on the car when cracking off the connections. Having got the bumper and the cowl off, the hose nuts are nicely accessible for a good spanner; as is the braised nuts attached to the cooler element.

However, I first need to remove the cooler from its mounting bracket on the car, to allow it to “Float”. Then, with two correct size spanner’s, one on the braised nut and the other on the braided hose nut, counter force can be applied without any torque transferring to the cooler, because it is floating. All that is necessary is to keep good purchase on the nuts and apply steady pressure. If the left hand torque is greater then the right, the radiator will just turn/move; and vice versa the right greater.

All this has to be done with a nice cup of black coffee - Colombian Arabica - from a garden chair in front of the Alfa, reminiscing about holidays and long drives across Europe.

If the hose still seems a little stubborn, because the cooler is off the car, a little heat from a gas gun, applied to the braided hose nut, should be enough for it to crack off. Keeping the flame away from the hose of course!

Did not get the bumpers down to the spray shop as a lot of time was spent taking all the Furniture off the front bumper, avoiding damaging it as I did so. God, there are a lot of bits to put back. once they are cleaned, I must find a way of restoring the “Black” - any recommendations? It should be my wife doing the prepping as she is brilliant. Me! Really disgraceful the way I neglect polishing any of my cars. The mechanical side is everything to me; tarting thing up - never. I do enjoy hiding things however. If there is a seam or a joint anywhere, which does not look right, spoils the flow of things, I like to hide it. I’ve not done this with my Alfa’s, but people would be hard pressed to find a joint in some of my handy work.

But I really hate the way modern cars have some beautifully sculptured panels, broken up by a seam, which invariably ruins the aesthetics.

Wiper arms off next and windscreen “Scuttle” removal to check what lurks below.
Good tips re: the oil cooler. I did try some of this, but stopped short of applying heat. Lack of experience in my part! I have just replaced my catalytic converter under the car, and had a nice long blast just now. Just need it warmer to get the roof down. Good luck with the repairs.


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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
if anyone is trying to remove the oil cooler couplings this might help.
Nice One!

With so few miles on my car, the pipes/braids are in good condition - or certainly look as if they they are. So I may be lucky and save the cost of replacing them - not cheap, I wouldn’t have thought. So hopefully, I can get them disconnected from the cooler without damage to them or further damage to the cooler.
 

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Nice One!

With so few miles on my car, the pipes/braids are in good condition - or certainly look as if they they are. So I may be lucky and save the cost of replacing them - not cheap, I wouldn’t have thought. So hopefully, I can get them disconnected from the cooler without damage to them or further damage to the cooler.
Sounds good Sizewell
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Nice One!

With so few miles on my car, the pipes/braids are in good condition - or certainly look as if they they are. So I may be lucky and save the cost of replacing them - not cheap, I wouldn’t have thought. So hopefully, I can get them disconnected from the cooler without damage to them or further damage to the cooler.
Found a new oil cooler from “ Totally Alfa”, £224.01p so well chuffed. The Yorkshire Company offered to remanufacture as the Alfa one is a sealed unit and not repairable. However, the price was somewhat more. Non the less they responded very quickly and for that I am grateful.

Now just waiting for a quote from ashfordchroming.com for the inlet runners.

coming together nicely - I hope it continues.
 

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Found a new oil cooler from “ Totally Alfa”, £224.01p so well chuffed.

Now just waiting for a quote from ashfordchroming.com for the inlet runners.
I used the TotallyAlfa cooler, too - but had to have custom hoses made up as I couldn't undo the originals from the original, leaking cooler and therefore had to cut them off the oil pipes...

I'd be interested to hear the price for rechroming the inlet runners - as mine need doing also...
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I used the TotallyAlfa cooler, too - but had to have custom hoses made up as I couldn't undo the originals from the original, leaking cooler and therefore had to cut them off the oil pipes...

I'd be interested to hear the price for rechroming the inlet runners - as mine need doing also...
Not had an answer from the re - Chrome people yet, but my new oil cooler arrived with the postie as we were leaving to go shopping. It was wrapped like it contained the Crown Jewels.

that‘s my job for the weekend sorted!
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