Alfa Romeo Forum banner

1 - 16 of 16 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
323 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hey everyone. Been a few months since I've posted. To busy enjoying driving.

Had to call out the RAC earlier as I broke down unfortunately. Wife mainly drives the car, but she's been saying the last two weeks that it's been starting alittle rough in the mornings. I just put it down to colder weather or glow plugs possible needing replaced, which maybe the case anyway.

She had drove the car home from work today, about 6-7 miles, no problems. Car parked at house half hour then I jumped in to get kids from school 1.5mile trip. Once kids collected, started up again n headed another 1.5miles to supermarket. Did shopping, all good.

Once back at the car and I started the engine, it hesitated, then had tapping noise when it started, lasting upto a minute and engine felt like it was choking on idle. Once tapping noise was gone, but engine still felt rough, I put it into gear and tried moving forward. Usually just lifting clutch would achieve this, but I had to bring the revs about 2500rpm n higher to get any drive. When it stalled, which was very easy to do, it struggled to restart, but it did, no tapping but same response problems.

Resorted to call the RAC.

As I was waiting, I also noticed that with any load on the engine it was prone to stall. As it was running idle, if I turned the steering wheel it would stall unless I put alittle throttle on.

RAC came, checked what he could do with my knowledge given, told him egr had been cleaned few weeks ago with particual blanking plate inserted. DPF cleaner had been added also. The longer he was there the engine seemed to run better on idle. So he asked me to make the short journey home to test it and he would follow. There was very little drive and no boost. I could not raise the power enough to get 3rd gear.

There is no engine management lights on, the DPF warning light hasn't come on, which it has before when it was blocked months ago which I sorted then. RAC ran a diagnostic which brought up no faults. The oil change warning is the oil thing that has displayed on the dash within the last few weeks asking for an 'oil change due'.

RAC suggested a oil flush and oil n filter change which I can do myself asap. He mentioned the performance drop could be the egr or more likely a tappet (hydrochloric valve) being sticky which would b the cause of the noise I heard. If it is a tappet, how can I be sure, can they be changed by myself if I'm an average DIYer, where can I by them or is it a garage job? Can anyone post info on this as a how to?

Also is there anything else I can check that could be at fault? Swirl valves or sumthing comes to mind that iv read before. Is that the same thing as a tappet?

Pain in the bum. Thanks for you help, sorry for the long winded explanation.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
92 Posts
Your symptoms sound very similar to mine (posted just a few minutes earlier).

Like you I also had run some dpf cleaner through prior to experiencing these problems. Could this have caused some damage?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
92 Posts
As mentioned above I have experienced very similar symptoms to you but have now found the solution. Like you I had cleaned the egr a couple of weeks ago and discounted this being the problem. However, having removed it to check I found out was now stuck open. When it is stuck open the EML doesn't come on, it's only when there is insufficient airflow that the EML is triggered. I've pushed the valve shut and put the egr back on without reconnecting the electrical connector so it is effectively blanked off. It's brought the EML on but I'll line with that until I get the solenoid sorted.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
323 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
As mentioned above I have experienced very similar symptoms to you but have now found the solution. Like you I had cleaned the egr a couple of weeks ago and discounted this being the problem. However, having removed it to check I found out was now stuck open. When it is stuck open the EML doesn't come on, it's only when there is insufficient airflow that the EML is triggered. I've pushed the valve shut and put the egr back on without reconnecting the electrical connector so it is effectively blanked off. It's brought the EML on but I'll line with that until I get the solenoid sorted.
EML being what exactly? Sorry

So if the solenoid is knackered is that a new egr valve or can a cheaper fix be don't. I will take EGR off again tomorrow and have a look. Thanks
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
92 Posts
EML is the engine management light. The solenoid is the bit in the black cylindrical case bolted to the metal part of the egr. It moves the valve open and closed. According to the guide on cleaning the egr it's often the solenoid that sticks not just the valve that gets covered in soot. It can be stripped down and cleaned.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
323 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Thanks giblets, top link. Did read it before when I bought the motor and had a few issues but I have only removed and cleaned the EGR. So the cleaning list has now been extended.

Anyone an explanation on the tapping noise? RAC said possible tappets (hydronic value). Does that add up? He said car hesitates to start but he didn't hear the tapping noise for himself. It was only when I started that one time and lost power.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
92 Posts
Mine made a really bad rattly diesel sound. It was just the egr being stuck open. I can't believe how severe the symptoms were.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
323 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
EML is the engine management light. The solenoid is the bit in the black cylindrical case bolted to the metal part of the egr. It moves the valve open and closed. According to the guide on cleaning the egr it's often the solenoid that sticks not just the valve that gets covered in soot. It can be stripped down and cleaned.
Thanks, not 100% on all the abbreviations and terminology lol. When I had the EGR off few weeks ago I seen how it works well. Cleaned it good as new and wrecked my downstairs bathroom sink which my wife loved. Wasn't as bad as I expected with the mileage but someone had put a particual blanking plate in before so it must have been cleaned then. I wouldn't of thought the solenoid would have been sticky after I cleaned it but I will defo check again from what you have said. Thank you
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
263 Posts
Had all these issues too.
Blanked and deleted egr, replaced inlet manifold.
Gutted troublesome dpf and remapped car.
No issues since, no money wasted on dpf cleaners and trips to garage.
Cause is short trips.

Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
323 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
Had all these issues too.
Blanked and deleted egr, replaced inlet manifold.
Gutted troublesome dpf and remapped car.
No issues since, no money wasted on dpf cleaners and trips to garage.
Cause is short trips.

Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk
I'm not sure on the product name, but a local motor factor had a spray product retails approx £30 that you apply directly into the DPF rather than an additive into the fuel system and said is brilliant. Just need to be clued up on safely raising the car and disconnecting the DPF to apply it. Apparently the crap built up flies out the tailpipe once applied and all reconnected and engine turning over. Anybody know of this product.

Also, to visually fool the MOT stations, how easy is it and safe is it to remove DPF to knock out its insides and replace it so it looks like normal on the outsides? And doing this does it need a remap as all components should still b present? I ask due to the cost of a remap. Can anyone give an approx figure on what they paid for a remap or can it be don't yourself?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,784 Posts
I'm not sure on the product name, but a local motor factor had a spray product retails approx £30 that you apply directly into the DPF rather than an additive into the fuel system and said is brilliant. Just need to be clued up on safely raising the car and disconnecting the DPF to apply it. Apparently the crap built up flies out the tailpipe once applied and all reconnected and engine turning over. Anybody know of this product.

Also, to visually fool the MOT stations, how easy is it and safe is it to remove DPF to knock out its insides and replace it so it looks like normal on the outsides? And doing this does it need a remap as all components should still b present? I ask due to the cost of a remap. Can anyone give an approx figure on what they paid for a remap or can it be don't yourself?
The spray stuff for the DPF is from wurth.

Autolusso used to do a map for the DPF and egr for £150 ish ( don't think they still do DPF part as an not tester)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
323 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
Swirl flaps How To and MAF clean How To anywhere? 159 1.9
Still working to solve problem and working through the list of jobs that should solve my 1.9Ti which is barely drivable at the moment.

I'm looking for a guide or how to on checking and replacing the swirl valves. I have the black plastic type of inlet manifold and I'm not sure where the swirl valves are. Underneath is all I have read but I'm still struggling to see them. Any pictures or a guide most appreciated.

Also a guide or how to on cleaning the MAF so I can rule that problem out also. I want to do a thorough clean, so if they is a better way than just using carb cleaner spray please help.

Last job will be a DPF clean or drill out. Will do my homework more on this when its last thing to do. Gona do all the sensors first. Already done EGR few weeks ago, but gona check it again. How do I know or how do I check if I have any component that's faulty even after cleaning were the only option is a new part (this question in relation to the normal parts, MAF, EGR, MAP, BOOST SENSOR etc)? Will a diagnostic show these normally as iv had one done and no fault of error codes showing.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
323 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
Just removed MAP, unfortunately the inserted part of it that is inside the manifold was jammed tight and it snapped on removal. Luckily the sensor is intact and I could pry the remains out with a flat head driver. Should b able to DIY it back into place. Sensor was filthy.

I removed and opened the boost sensor at front of engine bay. I need confirmation that just opening where the little filter is, is all that's needs checked. Didn't seem to be very dirty.

Also removed EGR. Looks as expected after I cleaned it few weeks ago. Lightly sooted. Solenoid I'm not sure how to test. Was not stuck but not sure if it could b faulty. Any advice how to test it correctly appreciated.

Removed throttle body, first time iv done that. Will give it a good clean. I opened the electrical mechanism of it and I'm unsure if the black fluid or grease is a lubricant for the mechanism or if it is a contaminant from spaying egr cleaner around the throttle body a few months ago. I'll try and attack a picture.

In the process I also took off the bracket that holds the throttle body and EGR as I could see a soot build up inside. The inners of that are completely clogged with soot. But my fear looking at how bad that is, is how much muck is inside the manifold itself. Is this something that will need removed and cleaned or is there anything else that can be done to remove the soot build up inside?
 
1 - 16 of 16 Posts
Top