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Discussion Starter #1
My car has started to under perform quite drastically in the last couple of days, I have zero power under 2.5k revs.

Thread researsh suggests the egr, or the MAF. Is there anthing i can do to determine which one is at fault, rather than rushing into it and replacing them?

Also, could the really bad weather we are having at the moment be playing a part in this?

Thanks.
 

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Im having same problems. I dont know what to do with it and I cant just leave my car for couple of days in service. BTW is it safe to drive it when there is something wrong with EGR or MAF??
 

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Adding to John's above statement, you may still find it a little lumpy just above idle with the MAF removed, but once up to speed, it should rev more freely than when connected, indicating a dying MAF.
 

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I'm no expert but I'd suggest looking at the EGR first partly because it's easier but it also seems to be a common problem caused by rusting inside the solenoid. There are a couple of threads which explain how to do it yourself including one from me at http://www.alfaowner.com/Forum/engines-ts-jts-jtd-and-v6/170788-cured-my-egr-problems.html the link to the instructions can be slow to start sometimes - server needs to start up but it will get there.
you don't need much time or special tools.
For diagnosis
1/ Remove engine cover - the plastic bit that say Alfa Romeo
2/ Remove EGR
3/ Blank off the hole in the valve with some thin metal - a tin can will do
4/ Replace the EGR
5/ Try driving it, you will get a MSCF message but it isn't too serious I drove a couple of hundred miles like it
If it now drives well the EGR was at fault (the MAF could still have problems but the EGR definitely needs fixing)
From the link you will see that some people recommend permanently blocking the valve but, at least on post 05 cars, that would result in a permanent MSCF message which would irritate me.
I'm in Cheshire myself (close to Handforth Dean Tesco) and will lend a hand if you need it. It took me a hour or two and I think I could do it quicker next time.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks for the replies, in particular to Jess. I will attempt the repairs at the weekend. Thanks for the offer of lending me a hand, I will let you know how i get on, and if I need to take you up on the offer if it fails!

Thanks again.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
UPDATE-

Well the egr is fixed! big thanks to the awesome guide from Jess and the guy from the Vauxhall forum.

It was much easier then i thought it would be, and the results are amazing. the car not only now pulls from any rev range, it feels much more responsive all round than it ever has. There are no slight dips in the revs at idle anymore and previously when the engine was switched off it made a loud judder, but no more.

I would recommend this to all jtd owners if you car is over say 2/3 yrs old even if you are not having any problems, as the car feels to have at least +5/10hp more than ever before.
 

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Thanks for reporting back it's good to know it was worth the effort putting the guide together. I'm glad it fixed the problem too, the weather is too cold for unnecessary jobs.
In the spring I plan to take my EGR apart to see how it's survived the year, I'll update the guide with what I find to let anyone interested know whether the job does need repeating annually.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Started the car this morning and the motor control system failure light has appeared. The car is still driving well with no problems. This did not appear yesterday on the initial drive after repairing the vlave.

Any idea's why it has come on?

Thanks.
 

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Started the car this morning and the motor control system failure light has appeared. The car is still driving well with no problems. This did not appear yesterday on the initial drive after repairing the vlave.

Any idea's why it has come on?

Thanks.
You need to get the error read to find out what it is.

However I have a similar issue as you, I changed the EGR and after a few days I found I was getting a p1238 error, so I have taken the EGR off and re-fitted it. What I have found is one of the four bolts is not pulling up properly (possibly a stripped thread but nothing appears to be on the bolt thread and if I put the bolt in the thread without fitting the EGR it screws down with out any problems) and I think that this is causing a leak passed the gasket which is throwing the error.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
It's getting serviced next month so i will ask him to check it out then if the error remains. I will tighten the bolts up and see if this has any effect.

Only problem is, its having its MOT today, please tell me a MCSF warning is not an MOT failure!
 

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No real ideas as I didn't have the problem. If it isn't a failed part the message may reset itself after you've driven a few miles (10 or 15 I think) switched off then on again.
If it is caused by the EGR and you are still getting power throughout the rev-range it means the valve is staying closed (same effect as blocking the valve completely). A possibility is that the electrical connection has become disconnected or a fuse blown. An alternative is that carbon has got blown into the actual valve and is stopping it moving or maybe blocking the gas pathway somewhere. Before I fixed my valve I'd had the carbon cleared out by my specialist so may have been lucky.
If it had happened to me I think I'd have taken the valve off again and checked it is still moving freely - it's free to do after all. If all else fails it may be that it's your MAF as suggested above
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I can't understand why the MCSF light did not come on until the day after though? I will have a fiddle and see if i can sort it. The main thing is that i have the power back because it was dangerous as well as very annoying!

It sailed through the MOT with no advisories which i was made up with too.

Will a diagnostic pinpoint the exact issue, it will it just show up as an egr fault?

darqaduis, was yours a DIY job or a garage job?
 

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[Edited for second thought] I suppose it could be nothing to do with the EGR/MAF there are a lot of other electronics on the car that may be controlled in the same way.

If it's a fuse or the wire dropped off it may only have happened after your drive.

I had a diagnostic done on mine before I fixed the valve and it wasn't very precise - it said it could have been the EGR or the MAF or both - and we already know that. I chose to do the EGR fix because I could and it didn't cost more than some time and there were no replacement EGRs about at the time.
There may be more useful codes so it is still worth doing but I think it will probably keep until your service. I suppose the solenoid could have burned out but I think that is very unlikely as it looks very robust, but there could be different types on different engines.

I agree with you that the fault is very dangerous - I hate to imagine the consequences if it first showed up during a rapid exit from a junction or going onto a roundabout. It is a serious design flaw - a single point of failure - on these engines.
 
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