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Well i have had the gtv 3.0 for 2 weeks now and had 600 faultless miles and loved everyone off them :). But now the work starts was planning to fit a full set of power flex buxhes over the xmas period . Need an excuse to get out the house on the big day :cheese: . Now how hard are they to fit. I have a good workshop just no lift so will have to work on floor level.
 

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i have not dont this myself however i know you either need a 10 tonne press and then its a doddle or you need to do combination of cutting and burning them out, While the rubber may have perished they are still well seated and proove anoying to come out when i attempted one

many memebers here gain great satisfaction of being able to tell that they did it all myself i left it to my local specialist becuase i just knew i would have it all in bits and would get stuck somewhere lol

maybee an idea to drop the rear subframe entirely and do it away from the car

remember to get it 4 wheel tracked aswell afterwards
 

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Removing the bushes is the hardest part and that's easy if you have access to a press.

No need for a lift although as with most jobs, a lift would be great!

There are loads of helpful threads on here if you search, here's a few.

http://www.alfaowner.com/Forum/alfa-gtv-and-916-spider/275189-springarm-reconditioning.html

http://www.alfaowner.com/Forum/alfa-gtv-and-916-spider/275189-springarm-reconditioning.html

http://www.alfaowner.com/Forum/alfa-gtv-and-916-spider/266715-how-to-guide-front-and-rear-suspension-change.html

I am going down the route of buying second hand pans, arms and wishbones, refirbing them with powerflex bushes and then swapping them over in one hit. Best of luck :thumbs:
 

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Well i have had the gtv 3.0 for 2 weeks now and had 600 faultless miles and loved everyone off them :). But now the work starts was planning to fit a full set of power flex buhes over the xmas period . Need an excuse to get out the house on the big day :cheese: . Now how hard are they to fit. I have a good workshop just no lift so will have to work on floor level.
There are lots of "how to" threads on this forum (not necessarily in the sticky thread at the top of the forum) that describe exactly how to replace the bushes, with some recommendations on whether to change the "rose" joint type bushes for powerflex busheson the rear arms. ;)

Rich
 

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and don't expect to get ot done on one day. Its takes time cracking/grinding/removing all the old rusted bolts/nuts, prepping and reassembling in the right order, torquing up, then retorquing after alls settled. But a relatively easy job to do. Don't forget the upper wishbone ball joints.
 

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CrispDust is right... plan for 1 day either side at least, unless you have a press.

Just buy everything you need and do everything... I skimped and bought 1 bit at a time but its too much effort like this, don't make my mistake.
 

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Even with a 10 ton press some of the old joints are tough little bugbears to remove, often require heat/chill and perserverance. You need a good selction of drifts/sockets to fit the various sizes of bush hole. And be very careful not to bend any arms especially to top wishbone fork
 

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If you have a good workshop you should be ok.. I did mine (and some others !!) using the blowtorch,hacksaw and chisel method.. even on the old ball joints..
Just takes time and patience.. takes a weekend..
 

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I did mine a month or two ago. Loads of good advice already however heres mine: do not even attempt this without a 10 ton press!! Also I personally would not bother to order the upper wishbone joints from the powerflex kit and I disagree with the advice of changing the upper wishbone joints. I would only powerflex the trailing arms and spring pans - I wish I'd left the upper wishbone joints alone - the powerflex bushes are an absolute nightmare to fit - I suppose if you have access to a proper ramp it may work out. I was on axle stands and it took me from 10 am to midnight to get all 14 (IIRC) bushes replaced and back in. I reckon I would have completed this job by 4pm if I had left the upper wishbone joints alone. Apart from that it is very straight forward.
 

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I find the upper wishbones the easiest part of the whole job.. had to do them because the originals were shot.. there used to be an issue with powerflex supplying large washers for the upper wishbone that weren't required and wouldn't fit anyway.. after a phone call to powerflex they were consigned to the bin and from then on it was a doddle.. note.. the outer washers on the lower arms are very important and must be fitted.

you can get all the bushes out without a press. takes about 20 mins per bush.. the original upper bushes are a top hat design so will only knock out one way.. you will see when you have brushed all the crap off.. and to be honest by the time you have taken them to someone with a press.. and it's a weekend.. garages shut etc.. you may as well have just knocked them out yourself..

Take all the arms off both sides.. set up a production line.. removing all the old bushes first .. and then fit the new bushes.. maybe splodge some paint on them.. any colour you like.. re-assemble the suspension.. then you are not going from one job to another all the time..
allow a couple of days.. take your time..

Do it.. it's worth it..
 

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It's certainly worth it:thumbs:

As discussed many times the transverse arms are vital. The springpans are contentious but if fitted correctly powerflex works well. The upper wishbones are worth it as the OE rubbers do perish (mine were in a terrible state) and, as a whole, if all done correctly, the rear poweflex upgrade is a quantum leap in improved handling and ride.

Forget the front. Keep everything oe fresh, and fit a brace and Quaiffe diff.

Quite frankly NineOneSix without suitable suspension improvments in your set-up I would avoid any trip in your beast like Friday 13th:D
 

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Tbh it handles like a dream, hence me not really bothered about it. The rear feels tight as a drum apart from the crap shocks back there. When I ran it without pas for almost a year it was twitchy as hell but still very drivable.

A quaife? My car doesn't use a TS GB and it has viscodrive which is more grabby then a Q2. But it still
Lights up the tyres both of them even worse in the wet. Throttle control is a must.

I've got a front strutbrace but I haven't noticed a difference from it tbh.

My front wishes I think are on there way out, with the torque I've got I'm not surprised.
 

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Replacing all four shocks is vital. The rears always wear first but do the lot. Koni Sports are good, but I think the TS/JTS version of the Bilsteins are still available. Ride with the Konis on mine absolutely superb - planted, not hard but with the right degree of compliance to give confidence. Eibach prokit also crucial - this combo gives such a good ride, less body roll through the corners.

Honestly, with your setup (which does sound addictive), go for the upgrades and you will get extremely excited.

What I wouldn't give to have your set-up in my Spider..........
 

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I've got coilovers on the front from my late 155 project. Found out I can make some brackets and use the rear shocks also. Which I'll be doing in the not to distant future :cool:

The front geometry is way different then standard, very extreme really.

After the new engine goes in, AWD may follow ;)
 

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Hi

Didnt do the upper wishbones on the rear was told by the mechanic its a waste of money just do the others and its well worth it.....

Cheers
That what I was told.. so took them off to check them and they were perished.. I could push the inners out with my thumb.. that was at about 80k on a 96 gtv.. I'd say check them while you have the suspension apart.. it's only four bolts per side..
 
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