[DoubleAlfa]

A couple of questions please:

Is the plastic Engine Guard undreneath the engine necessary? I drove over a deer (it was already dead, killed by an Audi Q3), and mine is now hanging off/down on one side.

If it is necessry, what tools do I need to undo the bolts which seem to still be in the chassis but the plastic isn't? A previous garage bodged it with tiewraps, so think bolts mat be fairly well seized?

Please bear in mind I am rubbish with repairs so please keep answers as basic as if you were speaking to a very small child! :teacher:

Thanks in advance. :thumbup:

 

[halftone]

It isn't necessary, although it does help keep road dirt out of the engine bay and it might conceivably prevent a bit of debris dislodging the auxiliary belt. Against their use, the soundproofing felt on the upper surface tends to retain water that encourages the subframe to rust.

The bolts need a Torx aka star bit. I don't remember the size, T30 I think.

The rear bolts often seize into the 'rivnut' captive nuts, which then spin uselessly in the subframe holes making them impossible to remove. That means the only way to remove the undertray is to wreck it.

You then have to cut, drill or grind away the rivnut's collar and then they can be pushed through into the hollow subframe structure and fished out. New rivnuts can be fitted using a special tool required to crush them into position (like Pop rivets).

Cable ties are a pretty standard solution.

 

[giblets46]

Yep, it's there for sound, dirt and mpg reasons.
Someone is trying to get a group buy for a metal version


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[antipesto93]

I am going to try and make my own aluminium one this weekend, will let you know how it goes
so far it has costed £50 for the aluminium sheet + £3 for some jigsaw blades, but I just dont know how well a jigsaw will work

 

[mapalfa]

When I spoke to my local dealer's service department they said they recommend removing them if there's any rust issues.

I didn't bother putting mine back on because a) it makes the front end less likely to rot more, b) it makes the front end fractionally lighter, c) it makes access to components much quicker and d) I couldn't be arsed to mess around with new rivnuts!

 

[allandwf]

It's there for the above reasons, it will go fine without it, but if it wasn't necessary Alfa wouldn't go to the expense of making it and fitting it.

 

[mapalfa]

It's there for the above reasons, it will go fine without it, but if it wasn't necessary Alfa wouldn't go to the expense of making it and fitting it.

That's very true, but a part that's engineered for Italian conditions can cause more problems than benefits on UK roads.

If they'd made a UK version, or a northern European version, then I'd have bothered to refit it and I'm sure the dealer would be recommending putting it back on. Typical of Alfa really - form over function:irked:

 

[crimsonbadger]

I am going to try and make my own aluminium one this weekend, will let you know how it goes

so far it has costed £50 for the aluminium sheet + £3 for some jigsaw blades, but I just dont know how well a jigsaw will work

Hi,

How Thick is the sheet? What was it's initial dimensions?

 

[DoubleAlfa]

It isn't necessary, although it does help keep road dirt out of the engine bay and it might conceivably prevent a bit of debris dislodging the auxiliary belt. Against their use, the soundproofing felt on the upper surface tends to retain water that encourages the subframe to rust.

The bolts need a Torx aka star bit. I don't remember the size, T30 I think.

The rear bolts often seize into the 'rivnut' captive nuts, which then spin uselessly in the subframe holes making them impossible to remove. That means the only way to remove the undertray is to wreck it.

You then have to cut, drill or grind away the rivnut's collar and then they can be pushed through into the hollow subframe structure and fished out. New rivnuts can be fitted using a special tool required to crush them into position (like Pop rivets).

Cable ties are a pretty standard solution.

Thanks for help

 

[cue2]

The under tray also balances air pressure under the car and makes the lower air intake more effective.

 

[halftone]

A UK version should ideally be made of 15mm steel plate to save the underside from sleeping policemen and potholes, and covered in 20Kg sacrificial zinc anodes to stop subframe rust.

 

[TRACER]

I think you mean 1.5mm thick.

If you put 15mm steel plate I think you would need a bigger engine to make the car move:biglaugh:

 

[Lord_of_beard]

There are plastic options https://www.ebay.co.uk/ulk/itm/231407234579 these don't have the soundproofing that holds water.

 

[crimsonbadger]

There are plastic options https://www.ebay.co.uk/ulk/itm/231407234579 these don't have the soundproofing that holds water.

And are made of 100% crap. I've made mine from 2.5 mm thick alloy. Will see how it works next week

 

[antipesto93]

Made one this morning !
My aluminium piece was a bit too small(1.5x130x1100), so I did it in two parts
I used a jigsaw for cutting, so drilled holes when I had to to sharp turns (so I had space to rotate the blade)

https://www.dropbox.com/s/15zzlpyqset4nmq/DSC_0069.JPG?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/ucm8ohiphvxkv3m/DSC_0070.JPG?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/ebb8e725qs4fbkn/DSC_0073.JPG?dl=0

Not the prettiest thing, but I can go over the humps at 30mph with no issues.
in hindsight, I thought it could be a nice idea to put another big hole for future oil drains, but I realised too late.
(TBI engine by the way, lower than most)

 

[Ken]

Your money would have been better spent on some shoes :biglaugh::biglaugh::biglaugh:

 

[antipesto93]

Your money would have been better spent on some shoes :biglaugh::biglaugh::biglaugh:

:thumbup: Thats what happens when you buy an Alfa.