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Discussion Starter #1
Hi. Just picked up a rather nice GT as a project and am experiencing a few odd issues. Hoping some will be linked.
Issus:
1. Remote key fob doesn't work. Unlock, lock and boot buttons do absolutely nothing.
Installed new fob battery but still nothing.
Can still lock doors using key in door handle. No beep and no flash of the indicators.

2. Immobiliser Fault flashing on dash with ignition on. Engine still starts and runs well.

3. Brake Light Failure on dash. All brake lights are working though.

4. Hazard warning button illuminates brighter when side lights or headlights are on and the brake pedal is pressed.

5. Reverse light not working. Still to check fuse but will report back.

Can't think of any others off the top of my head at the moment. Is it possible any of these could be linked?

Suggestions on what I should be looking at or doing to correct these faults would be greatly appreciated.

Many thank,
John
 

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Could very well all be linked on a GT due to can-bus. I don't know anything about that so best hope for someone who does.

Is the brake light failure on dash specifically brake light, or generic blown lamp? In that case it could be a front lamp.

Poor solder joints, or missing/faulty components on the circuit board in your key is a possibility. Also a possibility it does not even have a board in it and is a replacement key case which used the old blade and immobiliser chip if it's anything like my folding key on my 156.

Some of the keys have a very small LED in them on the button face so if the key works then it should flash when buttons pressed regardless if it is near the car or not.

I have a spare key that is missing one of the larger capacitors off it. Clearly aiding in its inability to operate.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Hi Mike and many thanks for taking the time to reply.

The brake light failure is just generic, doesn't tell me which side just "brake light failure". Funny enough one of the side lights is out and I get that message too. I'll pop a bulb in that to see if that sorts it.

There was a 30A fuse blown on the battery terminal which controls "additional heater". Previous owner had bridged a wire across it. I've removed the wire, replaced the fuse and disconnected battery last night so later today I'll reconnect the battery and see what's going on.

I'll see if I can take the key fully apart. The wee alfa badge in the key is missing so possibly been opened before. I assume a chip from another alfa key will need programmed in?

I don't seem to have any LED on any of my alfa keys, but will double check this.
 

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Unfortunately, I cannot be of much help with the key remote. From what I know, there is a receiver which communicates via the body computer to lock or unlock doors and simultaneously switch alarm on and off. As neither work, the fault is prossibly in the receiver or it's communication with the body computer. I'm guessing it is not a fault with the body computer itself.

Do not confuse the remote alarm/central locking function with the immobiliser. The immobiliser is a separate function which is common with all cars of its age. It works by a transponder chip in the key which is energised by a small coil positioned around the ignition key barrel. It is energised by the electric field produced by the coil and has a range of a only a few inches. The remote alarm/central locking works from the small circuit board in the key which is powered by the battery in the key. If it does not work, ensure there is power getting to the circuit board. Even a new battery may sometimes not work until the electric connections have been gently cleaned with a scotchbrite pad or electric contact cleaner. It helps if at least one of the remotes has a LED built in to signify when a remote button is pressed. Cleaning the electric bits in the key remote etc is the first thing to do if the alarm/remote central locking stops working. Do not expect a new battery to be good either. Last year, I bought a Duracell branded key battery which lasted a whole 8 months. Since then I changed both batteries and cleaned up the connectors in both keys.

You have multiple lamp symptoms but possibly fewer actual faults. Firstly, I'd look at which rear lamp is not working very well (dim or doing strange things when another lamp such as indicator is switched on at the same time) as that will be the side which has an earth fault to the particular lamp cluster. Look at earth connections at bulbs, the bulbs themselves and especially the earth track in the lamp cluster and the wiring multiplug earth terminal feeding it. Look out of tell tale oxidation and possible burning. It is probably just oxidation so a small wire brush or scotchbrite pad, possibly a small screwdriver or hook to tighten the spring terminal and ideally some anti corrosion spray such as ACF-50 to stop the corrosion/oxidation coming back.
 

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I should have suggested the immobiliser fault in dash may be due to a low supply voltage to a circuit. It is always a good idea to check and clean fuses and connectors etc on battery positive terminal where there is a distribution board.

The reverse lamp may be a defective reverse lamp switch in the gearbox but check the connectors in the tailgate first in case it is a simple oxidation issue.
 

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I know that the side lights for the 156 are relatively rare and expensive small halogen lamps, well where I live anyway. I'm not sure if the GT has those same lamps for the sidelights, or more standard incandescent. Your owners manual if you have one will have the correct lamps listed.

I also had a problem with the rear lights not working on my 156, again not sure if different with a GT. With my car the rear lamps are placed on a plastic board, and on that plastic board are metal strips running around to the various lamps for the electrical connection. The metal strips are held in place by plastic welds through holes in the metal. Some of these plastic welds broke off, meaning that the metal strips were not in the correct locations for the circuits to be complete. I used a screw to then hold down the metal strips onto the plastic backing and it works fine. I can post a picture if you would like to know more or find your GT has a similar issue.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Unfortunately, I cannot be of much help with the key remote. From what I know, there is a receiver which communicates via the body computer to lock or unlock doors and simultaneously switch alarm on and off. As neither work, the fault is prossibly in the receiver or it's communication with the body computer. I'm guessing it is not a fault with the body computer itself.

Do not confuse the remote alarm/central locking function with the immobiliser. The immobiliser is a separate function which is common with all cars of its age. It works by a transponder chip in the key which is energised by a small coil positioned around the ignition key barrel. It is energised by the electric field produced by the coil and has a range of a only a few inches. The remote alarm/central locking works from the small circuit board in the key which is powered by the battery in the key. If it does not work, ensure there is power getting to the circuit board. Even a new battery may sometimes not work until the electric connections have been gently cleaned with a scotchbrite pad or electric contact cleaner. It helps if at least one of the remotes has a LED built in to signify when a remote button is pressed. Cleaning the electric bits in the key remote etc is the first thing to do if the alarm/remote central locking stops working. Do not expect a new battery to be good either. Last year, I bought a Duracell branded key battery which lasted a whole 8 months. Since then I changed both batteries and cleaned up the connectors in both keys.

You have multiple lamp symptoms but possibly fewer actual faults. Firstly, I'd look at which rear lamp is not working very well (dim or doing strange things when another lamp such as indicator is switched on at the same time) as that will be the side which has an earth fault to the particular lamp cluster. Look at earth connections at bulbs, the bulbs themselves and especially the earth track in the lamp cluster and the wiring multiplug earth terminal feeding it. Look out of tell tale oxidation and possible burning. It is probably just oxidation so a small wire brush or scotchbrite pad, possibly a small screwdriver or hook to tighten the spring terminal and ideally some anti corrosion spray such as ACF-50 to stop the corrosion/oxidation coming back.
Many thanks all for taking the time to reply.

I didn't get a big lot done yesterday but hoping to accomplish some more today.

I've a donor 147. I took the 147 and GT keys apart and compared the boards. The one for GT definitely seems to have some sort of oxidisation on it, possibly from water entering inside.

I swapped over the casings leaving the transponder chip in place. Sure enough the GT wouldn't start with the 147's transponder chip. Swapped it all back over and it starts again but the immobiliser failure message is still present on the dash. Based on this test would I be right to conclude there's nothing actually wrong with the immobiliser and the message is a false positive?
The chip is obviously providing a signal to the receiver at the ignition barrel which then allows the engine to start.

In regards to the lights, I replaced the side light bulb on the passenger side and this cleared the error warning for that light. I also replaced a front fog on the drivers side. Very difficult to do as really very little room so I found it easier to remove the front bumper and the headlight.
Still get the brake light failure error on dash despite all brake lights working.

I performed a diagnostic scan which shows dipped lamp relay fault. Headlights still work but the active test on diagnostic equipment couldn't power them on as I think it uses the relay. I'll change this relay if I can find out which one it is, clear the code and see if that solves the brake light failure message.
I'm also going to check all brake light bulbs if the above doesn't work.

In regards to the remote central locking, I do believe it's the board in the key which is the issue. I moved the fob battery to the 147 key and it works fine but replaced the battery in the GT key anyway, testing it works in the 147 key. None of my Alfa keys have an LED (2x 147's, a 156 and the GT)
 

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The immobiliser fault may be a false. It may clear after a number of error free starting cycles or it may just keep code logged due to intermittent under voltage. Cleaning terminals in related multi plugs may be enough to get rid to the error message.

If you have a brake light message then yes, check all brake lamps and 2.1watt bulbs (I think) which may make up the high level brake lamp.

I have noticed that our cars often tend to have unprotected electrics going through unsealed relays which actually make up part of the low current circuit which is also used for diagnostic testing purposes. The point to that is to make sure terminals, switches in relays and any circuit boards in relays are in good condition, not oxidised and do not have dry (cracked) solders. Use the same advice for the alarm/central locking key remote PCB. You can check alarm remote switches for voltage by using a multimeter but never be tempted to try to measure continuity as this is enough to upset sensitive electronics even if simply testing a switch for continuity. There are services on the likes of eBay for key repair if you become stumped.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Well I was able to narrow my issues down to the body computer.

I moved across the body computer from the donor 147 and the errors disappeared, but the engine wouldn't start (didn't expect it to). With the 147 body computer now in the GT I gained remote central locking using the 147 remote fob.

I fiddled and swapped bits from both keys in an attempt to get around the immobiliser but couldn't. Final conclusion is that the GT body computer is the problem and need another with an ECU to get around the immobiliser.

So, searched ebay for an ECU with body computer and fob, found what I needed but for £100 I decided to see whether I could source another cheap GT for the parts I needed. Low and behold I found one 40 miles away, same year, colour and engine for spares / repair due to clutch issue and rotten sills. Confirmed the ECU was the exact same numbers as mine. Couldn't confirm whether the body computer and remote central locking were going to be any good but decided to take a gamble and purchase it.

I swapped over the ECU and body computer, the board from the remote fob and the part of the casing with the chip. Unfortunately the remote fob board looked to have suffered water damage and low and behold it doesn't work. However the issues and errors I was having before are now gone. Out of curiosity I moved across the ECU and body computer to the donor GT and the issues and errors were now on it.

So, now I have an error free GT that starts and runs but with no remote fob. I have a good working fob board from the donor 147. Is there anyway to link this 147 board to the body compouter now used in my GT?

In regards to the donor GT, it really isn't fit for the road. The sills are beyond repair (looks to have been jacked up on the wrong part and crumpled and rotted away). But being the same engine and colour it'll make a very good parts car for anything I may need for my own GT.

The wheels it came on have now found a home on my 156 and the GTA alloys that were on the 156 are now on my own GT. And the wheels that were on my GT are now back on my other wee 147 :)
 
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