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Discussion Starter #1
The intake hose attached to the throttle body was splitting and I fancied replacing this with silicone pipe and also replacing the resonator box.

The pipe needs to have a 15mm connection for the crank case breather, and looking on ebay I found one of these: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=320357172701 (its nicely made, the welds are tidy and the inside is quite smooth. They made a half hearted effort at polishing it..)

Also bought a 76mm ID 45 degree elbow with 150mm legs.

As a rough guide I cut 35mm off the throttle leg and 50mm off the other end.

The breather pipe is *just* long enough to reach, though I think a longer bit of 15mm ID silicone hose and some decent hose clips would be better.

The throttle body on this seems just over 70mm but under 76mm, so the 76mm hose is a little loose but with a decent hose clip it feels tight and immovable.

If I was replacing all the hose to the MAF I would go for 70mm all the way, but it leaves the temperature sender..

Havent had a chance to drive it yet, and it doesnt seem much louder stationary, though it seems to have developed a nice bark when it first fires :D

Pics Attached (yes I need to top the coolant up :p)
 

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nice tidy job ian, there was a discussion on here about using the metal replacement pipes, they are more prone to absorbing heat, than a rubber or plastic part. apart from that you will notice a bit of difference with the sound and you might gain a bit more puff. i went the whole hog and fitted a k&n typhoon system.
 

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nice tidy job ian, there was a discussion on here about using the metal replacement pipes, they are more prone to absorbing heat, than a rubber or plastic part. apart from that you will notice a bit of difference with the sound and you might gain a bit more puff. i went the whole hog and fitted a k&n typhoon system.
I don't think it would make much difference what material its made out of the air will be traveling to quick to get warm
 

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ha ha you have stole my idea, i posted this about 3 months ago, but fair doo's it had been perfect, nice work!
 
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I don't think it would make much difference what material its made out of the air will be traveling to quick to get warm
thats what i would have thought but i think the others were saying that once the metel warms up it will still warm the air flow as it goes through the metal?
 

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thats what i would have thought but i think the others were saying that once the metel warms up it will still warm the air flow as it goes through the metal?
I have a pipercross filter on and on tick over its sucking air up at a quick rate you can feel it so imho it wont have time to heat up the air and when traveling cold air will enter the engine bay and dispose some of the engines warm air. Just as long as your getting air from a cold place it will stay cold
 

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Discussion Starter #7
ha ha you have stole my idea, i posted this about 3 months ago, but fair doo's it had been perfect, nice work!
Imitation and all that :lol: The spouted alloy tube is a very neat item, and makes the whole thing very easy.

As for metal vs plastic, black plastic will absorb IR radiation much more readily than shiny metal, but the metal will conduct it quicker. Swings and roundabouts really, probably not much in it :)
 

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interesting thread. I have been thinking of doing something this like after I recently replaced the standard filter to a BMC one although didnt have to remove the resontator as it didnt have one! Will you replace the first bit of piping to that nice silicone piping as well or leave it as it is because of the temp sender??

Ive seen pictures on here where people have literally replaced the whole unit with one continuous flow of piping? Can this be done and the senders etc be relocated or do you need to still respect the positioning of the senders where they are?

p.s. I was also wondering about that silicone vs polished metal piping debate and cant decide which ones best!

cheers
 

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Discussion Starter #11
interesting thread. I have been thinking of doing something this like after I recently replaced the standard filter to a BMC one although didnt have to remove the resontator as it didnt have one! Will you replace the first bit of piping to that nice silicone piping as well or leave it as it is because of the temp sender??

Ive seen pictures on here where people have literally replaced the whole unit with one continuous flow of piping? Can this be done and the senders etc be relocated or do you need to still respect the positioning of the senders where they are?
It would look better with silicone at each end, but the temperature sensor is a pain. Its probably not critical where it goes, so it could be fitted into a metal or plastic section of the intake. Should be before any crankcase breather to avoid oil contamination though.

If you do this and dont need to keep the last section then its easier/better to go 70mm all the way from throttle to maf. (the OE system goes up to 76mm for the resonator)
 

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Works a treat.
 
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