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Discussion Starter #1
I have an Alfa 2.4 JTD on a 2000 Plate, Im slowly working my way around its 'quirks'

Has anyone had experience of the passenger rear window failing to work? Any idea of what it might be, where i could start looking?

Cheers Guys
 

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this happened to my 156... was a motor in the window mechanism.. took it to Auto-Lusso Bournemouth (Wimbourne, Dorset) and they fixed it . AotuLusso = Knowledgable, efficient & reasonably priced!!!!
 

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I have an Alfa 2.4 JTD on a 2000 Plate, Im slowly working my way around its 'quirks'

Has anyone had experience of the passenger rear window failing to work? Any idea of what it might be, where i could start looking?

Cheers Guys
Yup, I bought my car with this fault. Except its driver rear window. Haven't had time to look at it yet. However from my research I found it is the window regulator that goes (that motor bit thingy :p). Not sure how much those cost.

this happened to my 156... was a motor in the window mechanism.. took it to Auto-Lusso Bournemouth (Wimbourne, Dorset) and they fixed it . AotuLusso = Knowledgable, efficient & reasonably priced!!!!
Would you mind sharing how much you paid - not so much for labour but the part itself?
 

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Tis an easy (fiddly) DIY job to replace...
 

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Discussion Starter #7
the motors in the door itself is it? im going to the scrappy tmrw for a few other bits so maybe ill pick up a motor and give it a go?
 

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Yeah, once door card is removed you'll work out how to replace the motor :thumbs:

Be careful with the plastic clip that goes through the glass though...
 

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plastic clip that goes through glass in rear window.

I've worked my way through dismantling everything inside the door, but I don't know how to remove the plastic clip from the glass, please can anyone help me?

Also, when I've disconnected the plug from the motor, there doesn't appear to be any voltage when I operate the switch using my tester, what voltage should be on these terminals, and when?
 

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Electrics!

OK, I've had an interesting afternoon completely dismantling the inside of the door and removing the winder mechanism, this was necesarry because in trying to remove the motor the winding wires unwrapped themselves from the spiral gear and it was impossible to replace these doing keyhole surgery inside the door.

I managed to reasemble it all and with a spare 12V battery tested the mechanism and it moves up and down smoothly. The 2 electric connections are simple positive and negative to a motor casing that is isolated from earth, so applying 12v + then - each side makes it go up & down; simples!

The window slides fairly smoothly in it's runners as well, so I am not sure why it gradually got slower until it stopped. I will 'lubricate' the runners with silicon spray when I reassemble to make it even smoother.

So it's now onto the electrics. The fuse was fine and testing the mulitplug in the door hinge area one of the terminals showed a good 12v supply, but there doesn't seem to be a supply to the switch.

My multi electrical tester has just broken and it's started raining heavily, so I shall start electric searching tomorrow.
 

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thanks 1of1

just seen this reply, thanks very much. I had already managed to get it out by trial and errror, but at least I can now see how to put it back together!

Also the tip on cleaning the dirt is probably what my problem is, I shall try that in the morning.
 

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Fixed (almost)

I had been advised by a local garage that the wires inside the motor mechanism can get tangled on the drive wheel, so I completely dismantled the assembly, tested the motor (OK) so reassembled with new grease and the assembly worked fine, I replaced it into the door and the window went up & down when I applied a powrr supply from a spare battery with cables.

I still had the problem that there was no live feed to the rear door switch even when the engine is running. Looking at the wiring diagram in the downloadable worshop manual, the power comes from the fusebox, through the drivers door switch, to the rear door switch and on to the motor. In my 'fault finding' search to see where the power was failing, I found that after my dismantling and reassembly of the motor assembly it now works fine from the drivers door switch (a bit slow, but very acceptable), and the rear door switch is U/S.

So I had 2 problems, tangled wires in the motor assembly, and a broken rear door switch. I can live with this, as no-one ever sits in the back.

All done, thanks 1of1, and good luck to anyone else doing this job.
 
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