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Discussion Starter #1
So as per my other thread I am not the proud owner of a 2.4 Q4 MY08.
I ordered last night the complete timing belt kit with water pump and also a new manifold whilst it's being done as I'm told it's practically simple once the belt is being done.
Anyway I have the reddish PAS fluid and I do feel the steering is a bit heavy and thinking of taking a chance and replacing all the fluid with Tutela GI/R.
But I'm wondering also about the rear diff. Should I also change the oil in there just so I'm sure it's been done or best leave alone? And if I do change the oil which diff oil for the Q4 is recommended?

Also... I've got the B and M system with the USB port. Now, if I plug in the USB it lights up but the radio won't let me access the media section. Pressing CD or SRC does nothing.
I know the port is working cause when I connected the phone it began charging. Any tips?
 

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Hi, if you have red fluid in there then stick with red fluid but change it for new. The green fluid is thinner and can cause the rack to leak if you change to it, its only really benificial in very cold weather, the steering on the 2.4's is quite heavy especially on tickover even with green fluid.
A new manifold will make a big improvement but it is not an easy job even with the belt off.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Hi, if you have red fluid in there then stick with red fluid but change it for new. The green fluid is thinner and can cause the rack to leak if you change to it, its only really benificial in very cold weather, the steering on the 2.4's is quite heavy especially on tickover even with green fluid.
A new manifold will make a big improvement but it is not an easy job even with the belt off.
Hmm, so it makes no sense changing the type of coolant you say.
It's a bit grindy if that makes sense so I want to get rid of all the crap in the system and put fresh liquid in but just can't decide if i should stick to the same colour or go for green.
If I keep the red fluid which is the name of the fluid i should get?
Yeah I can imagine it's a big job but I want to put a fresh one in so it's nice and clean and the flaps work 100% as now I've a bit of lag and the computer showed a flasp error
 

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Its definatly worth putting new fluid in, the red is regular dextron 2 or 3 auto box fluid which I would stick to. The racks can wear and leak out of the ends into the gaitors which they are more susceptible to with the thinner fluid.
Is well worth pulling the steering rack gaitors back and cleaning out any moisture thats built up in there, clean any debris off the rack bar and brush some pas fluid over the insides as they are quite prone to corrosion which then damages the seals, I do mine at least once a year.
 

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Its definatly worth putting new fluid in, the red is regular dextron 2 or 3 auto box fluid which I would stick to. The racks can wear and leak out of the ends into the gaitors which they are more susceptible to with the thinner fluid.
Is well worth pulling the steering rack gaitors back and cleaning out any moisture thats built up in there, clean any debris off the rack bar and brush some pas fluid over the insides as they are quite prone to corrosion which then damages the seals, I do mine at least once a year.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Its definatly worth putting new fluid in, the red is regular dextron 2 or 3 auto box fluid which I would stick to. The racks can wear and leak out of the ends into the gaitors which they are more susceptible to with the thinner fluid.
Is well worth pulling the steering rack gaitors back and cleaning out any moisture thats built up in there, clean an66y debris off the rack bar and brush some pas fluid over the insides as they are quite prone to corrosion which then damages the seals, I do mine at least once a year.
Thanks for that.
And with the diff, is 75w 80 Ok?
 

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You might want to consider blanking off your EGR and having it mapped out (provided it's not already mapped out) now you're putting a shiny new manifold on ... agree with Jon concerning the rack and fluid, water ingress was what caused mine to fail. If the reservoir is nice and smooth with engine running, your good with the existing fluid. If it's like a frothy espresso then consider a fluid change and even a reservoir change as there's a mesh filter that can get clogged inside it.


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Yes definatly worth blanking and mapping out the egr to keep your new manifold clean and they drive much better without them working. Autolusso can do that rremotely
The 2.4 uses a different pas reservoir to the 1.9 and dont suffer with the filter problem
With the diff oil just use whatever grade is speced for it and choose a quality brand.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks for that guys.
New parts should arrive today but something has struck me which I hadn't remembered when ordering the manifold.
The mechanic who checked out said something that it looks like the manifold has been switched off via the ECU and that changing it won't make a difference.
Does that sound right? Surely you can't switch off a manifold as you would an EGR? Or could he have meant that the flaps have been sealed open and this switched off through the ECU.
Just wondering if ordering the manifold will turn out to be a waste as either i won't notice the difference which will annoy me or the ECU will get confused and throw up an EML.
 

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Thanks for that guys.
New parts should arrive today but something has struck me which I hadn't remembered when ordering the manifold.
The mechanic who checked out said something that it looks like the manifold has been switched off via the ECU and that changing it won't make a difference.
Does that sound right? Surely you can't switch off a manifold as you would an EGR? Or could he have meant that the flaps have been sealed open and this switched off through the ECU.
Just wondering if ordering the manifold will turn out to be a waste as either i won't notice the difference which will annoy me or the ECU will get confused and throw up an EML.
you can't switch off a manifold....it's an integral and physical part of the engine holding the air under pressure for the cylinders to suck in through the intake valves....however, he may mean the swirl flaps.

However, if you are having a new shiny manifold put in, and the EGR blanked off, then I would retain the swirlflap operation as they are designed to improve low rpm torque by creating turbulence in the air flow.

They become a problem if there is a functioning EGR as the crud that cakes the intake manifold also interferes with swirl flap operation, jamming and damaging them causing leaks or worse.
 
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According to the owners manual the rear diff and gearbox oil should be changed at 90k - around 55,000 miles. Also in the manual it tells of which tutela oil to use. I did mine at 50,000 V6 Q4 which made the gearbox silky smooth no more notch feel which most people get from the F40 box


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Discussion Starter #12
Thanks for that guys.
New parts should arrive today but something has struck me which I hadn't remembered when ordering the manifold.
The mechanic who checked out said something that it looks like the manifold has been switched off via the ECU and that changing it won't make a difference.
Does that sound right? Surely you can't switch off a manifold as you would an EGR? Or could he have meant that the flaps have been sealed open and this switched off through the ECU.
Just wondering if ordering the manifold will turn out to be a waste as either i won't notice the difference which will annoy me or the ECU will get confused and throw up an EML.
you can't switch off a manifold....it's an integral and physical part of the engine holding the air under pressure for the cylinders to suck in through the intake valves....however, he may mean the swirl flaps.

However, if you are having a new shiny manifold put in, and the EGR blanked off, then I would retain the swirlflap operation as they are designed to improve low rpm torque by creating turbulence in the air flow.

They become a problem if there is a functioning EGR as the crud that cakes the intake manifold also interferes with swirl flap operation, jamming and damaging them causing leaks or worse.
What I was thinking. Is it really necessary though to blank off the egr? Cause I imagine I then need to electronically remove it from the ecu and then have the dpf deleted.
My thoughts were to stick the manifold in and have the egr cleaned out and leave it as was intended more or less.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
According to the owners manual the rear diff and gearbox oil should be changed at 90k - around 55,000 miles. Also in the manual it tells of which tutela oil to use. I did mine at 50,000 V6 Q4 which made the gearbox silky smooth no more notch feel which most people get from the F40 box


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Yeah I have this notchy feeling as well and I'm putting it down to needing an oil change and may as well get the diff done.
Car is on 203k km now so I'll assume it's been done either once or never.
 

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What I was thinking. Is it really necessary though to blank off the egr? Cause I imagine I then need to electronically remove it from the ecu and then have the dpf deleted.
My thoughts were to stick the manifold in and have the egr cleaned out and leave it as was intended more or less.
If you are going to the trouble and cost of having a new manifold fitted, what is the point in leaving the EGR functioning? It will just clog the manifold up with gunk again over time and you'll be back where you started.....with a gunked up intake manifold and a jammed/broken EGR. If you do intend to leave the EGR operational then I wouldn't bother with the £300 odd for a new manifold plus the extra labour fitting it......

Having the EGR blanked and written out of the ECU I think is about £100-150 quid. Autolusso will even do the ECU remotely if you buy a cable thingy from ebay for a few quid. Then you just need to fit the blanking plate yourself.

With the belts, and manifold, and oil changes etc you've got planned it's north of £1k worth of work there...an extra £100 quid makes sure it's not wasted in a few years time seems only a small bit extra
 

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Discussion Starter #15
What I was thinking. Is it really necessary though to blank off the egr? Cause I imagine I then need to electronically remove it from the ecu and then have the dpf deleted.
My thoughts were to stick the manifold in and have the egr cleaned out and leave it as was intended more or less.
If you are going to the trouble and cost of having a new manifold fitted, what is the point in leaving the EGR functioning? It will just clog the manifold up with gunk again over time and you'll be back where you started.....with a gunked up intake manifold and a jammed/broken EGR. If you do intend to leave the EGR operational then I wouldn't bother with the £300 odd for a new manifold plus the extra labour fitting it......

Having the EGR blanked and written out of the ECU I think is about £100-150 quid. Autolusso will even do the ECU remotely if you buy a cable thingy from ebay for a few quid. Then you just need to fit the blanking plate yourself.

With the belts, and manifold, and oil changes etc you've got planned it's north of £1k worth of work there...an extra £100 quid makes sure it's not wasted in a few years time seems only a small bit extra
Fair point and taken on board :)
 
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