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Discussion Starter #1
What's considered a parasitic draw ?did this today .I take thats 11 milla amps ,goes up to 1.5 amp with the doors open
936277
 

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My aftermarket stereo is pretty deadly at flattening the battery.

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Discussion Starter #3
I have an amp fitted even with the fuse it does not move so that is switching off .Even with the immobiliser activated it does not seem to move from what I take is 11 ma
Just be interesting to see what the norm is and what's classed as excessive
 

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Just had a quick Google of GTV batteries... and the first one I looked at came out at 62 amp hour capacity. So if my maths is correct (it has been a year or two since I went to school and I didn’t pay as much attention as I should have)

62/(11/1000) = about 5500 hours or 33 weeks to totally drain a brand new fully charged battery at 11 mA so probably not enough to worry about.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Even at 1.5 amps would take a fair bit of time to flatten battery .Don't know what size the battery is ,but would never get 33 weeks without it going flat . You here about 90s alarms drawing a fair bit of current I wonder how much and if they draw more if faulty
 

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Even at 1.5 amps would take a fair bit of time to flatten battery .Don't know what size the battery is ,but would never get 33 weeks without it going flat . You here about 90s alarms drawing a fair bit of current I wonder how much and if they draw more if faulty
I regularly leave both of mine for 2-3 weeks without starting them and have no issues. The problem with the alarm is often the siren. They have a lithium battery so they can still sound if the main battery is disconnected. These degrade with age to the point where they can’t hold a charge so they constantly draw current trying to charge. Modern stereos can also cause significant drain. They often have two ‘off’ positions. One is more a standby and will still draw enough power to make a difference while the other just draws minimum power remember your presets and keep the clock going.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Right see what you mean ,it hardly goes up if any once you activate the Alarm locking the doors .Did not realise they had a battery in them ,that says to me that's it's working . Is said battery replaceable ?
 

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Right see what you mean ,it hardly goes up if any once you activate the Alarm locking the doors .Did not realise they had a battery in them ,that says to me that's it's working . Is said battery replaceable ?
I don’t think so. I believe that the siren is ‘matched’ to the alarm so it’s not even a straight swap. You could try speaking to Sam at Abacus Alarms... he really knows his stuff and is very helpful. My Spider appears not to have an alarm or siren... the remote is a bit temperamental and if it doesn’t unlock the doors and I use the key, no alarm goes off. On the GTV, I changed the alarm ECU a while ago and fitted a new siren without a battery. People generally ignore car alarms so if nothing has happened in the time it takes for a thief to break into the car, find the battery and disconnect it then I doubt anything will.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Where abouts is the alarm ? and as far as the key goes you can get them repaired ,but have a go yourself .Check battery battery contacts ,check micro switch for cracked solder joints ,then squirt a bit of switch cleaner on the micro switch ! (Servisol ) .There was someone selling the rubber part on eBay at one time
Over the years the battery depleats and people press to hard on the button in an attempt to get round the battery problem ,this just cracks the solder joints on the micro switch
 

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I had my GTV garaged over Winter on a new Bosch battery, realised after last year that the face plate of my head unit needs to be removed to stop battery drain. For storage this year I fitted an battery isolator and it was low but started easily. Purchased one of those small battery boosters from Amazon but yet to need it yet.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
That's what I thought with the head unit on mine ,I have an amp aswell ,but after doing the drain test it does not make any difference .I have been uncliping it for a long time ,also the radio operates the power to the amp .I also have an isolated fitted worth its weight in gold

Don't know why Alfa did not wire the radio to ignition live .One thing I have to watch out for with my head unit ,is if you don't press the volume button in not long enough ,it just puts it in mute mode ,and because radio is not ignition live if you are not careful you can get out of car lock it with the radio still on
 

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I regularly leave both of mine for 2-3 weeks without starting them and have no issues. The problem with the alarm is often the siren. They have a lithium battery so they can still sound if the main battery is disconnected. These degrade with age to the point where they can’t hold a charge so they constantly draw current trying to charge. Modern stereos can also cause significant drain. They often have two ‘off’ positions. One is more a standby and will still draw enough power to make a difference while the other just draws minimum power remember your presets and keep the clock going.
Normally the aftermarket stereo issue is caused by people wiring then wrong rather than a a fault with the unit. The car turns it off if wired correctly.....so the stereo type should affect it. Not helped by ALFAs tendency to put the permanent and switched 12v in non standard positions and colours!
 

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Discussion Starter #14
It's got to be wired right because the memory works .never check it but maybe it will turn off after the the door are shut and car locked
 

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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
Just checked the plug there are five wires 2 earths 1 live out to amp ( only goes live with the set turned on ) and 2 perminent lives one thick other thin both are perminent live .Thin one is for memory .Why they did not make the thick red one ignition live ,?

Here is a pick if the stero instructions What is 6 for thought it was nother earth No 7 and 4 on car harness are permanent live
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What's considered a parasitic draw ?did this today .I take thats 11 milla amps ,goes up to 1.5 amp with the doors open View attachment 936277
That looks like 110 mA to me. It is a bit on the high side for acceptable parasitic draw. It might be ok but less would be normal for most cars. If you are having a problem with the battery going flat I would pull some fuses one at a time and see where it is going.
 

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Can not be 110 MHA because of the decimal point
I use a multi meter professionally most days, maybe you do as well. If so go with what you think is right. The meter is set to 10A scale and the measured value is 0.11A. This is more than one tenth of an amp and therefore more than 100mA. If you want to see the meter show 110 try moving the red lead to the center.and moving the dial one click clockwise. That is my best guess as the meter printing is not clear in your pic. If you have the manual for the meter check it for how to measure milliamps.
 

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Discussion Starter #20 (Edited)
Thanks ,you two are right it's 110mah ,thought it was 11mah that's what I needed to now

Anyway pulled the radio fuse and it goes down to 30mah ,more like it .Aftermarket radio ,which is actually turning off ,with the amp because I have checked that as well. Will take the head unit out after and disconnect see if that makes a difference

Top and bottom of it is ,Alfa never wired the main radio power to ignition live ,or unless it's memory live thats doing it

Fuse 17 is radio ,but that has other things on it like boot light interior light wing mirrors electric aerial ( which was not working up until the other day)
 

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