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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hi all,

Not for the first time my over trusting nature and faith in humanity has left me being fleeced by an unscrupulous ****

Basically bought a 147 on ebay blind and believed all the rubbish he told me. Did the quick checks which seemed fine - engine sounded sweet, oil and water good, no knocks.

Took the car and within 10 minutes it overheated. Seller knew I had a 110
mile journey and ignored my calls.


Basically if going at slow speeds car overheats. If going high speed car overheats. It only holds 90 degrees if going exactly 60 mph.

Would this point to a fan issue? Could someone advise fault finding for this.

Also, and Im not sure if related - when it did overheat I turned car off and it would not refire - all electrics dead. Took ten mins of desperate trying on the M4 before it came on and all the electrics had reset. Is this related or another fault?



Any help appreciated!
 

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It won't be the fan (or at least not just the fan), the fan won't help at high speed.

It could easily point to a failing rad.
Did you try using the heater on max heat to bring the temperature down?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Hi David,

Yeah I had the heater max heat - it may have been this that helped keep temperature to 90 if I held a constant speed of 60 mph.

Even going up to 65 meant the needle would creep up unless I slowed back down again. Town driving is not possible as slow speeds equals overheat very quickly.

Out of interest could the electrical fault be linked?

My fear is a faulty water pump - more expense :( :(
 
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What were the symptoms of the overheating? What exactly did the car do?
Yes this info would be useful could be rad as mentioned .
Has it lost any water at all ,does it run smoothly?
If it is the pump there's a good chance the cambelt will need replacing as you need to remove it to get the pump of and bearing in mind they are only about £30 it's unlikely that you would not change it if the belt has been done .
 
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Just noticed your in Bedford might be worth popping it over to Autolusso and getting their opinion tell them you heard of them on here .
They are regulars on here and their details are on the forum under traders :thumbs:
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks for replies.

Yeah, I know Autolusso - been in loads lol.

I always like to see if I can sort things myself first though and then revert to them when I'm out of my depth ;)

Symptoms weren't too apparent. Didn't notice any real performance change - car seemed smooth. It was the temp gauge and the dash warning of coolant at extreme temperature. Looked under the bonnet and it did seem overly hot - noticed a bit of gas/steam? (although not much) from dipstick hole when I pulled the dipstick out. Can't see any water/oil mix in expansion tank or engine though.

No evidence of leaking coolant - tank is full - although i notice it looks like just water and is not coloured which indicates it's been topped before.

Rad looks healthy visually - although am no expert!

Strangely it only seems to overheat on driving. Had the engine running for 15 mins and it stayed on 90 even with hard revving. - will have a better look on this tomorrow
 
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Did the fans come on after it got to temp ?
If you've got steam it must be coming from somewhere.
It is possible it has been refilled and got an airlock and is sorting itself out but would put some coolant in it when it leaks you will be able to see where it is leaking.
Could be that's why it's only got water in it so it doesn't leave any tell-tale signs!
Check the temp sender connection is clean to it could be that is why the reading is high but keep a close eye on the expansion tank you should if the pump is working be able to see the return water coming through the small pipe on the tank :thumbs:
Have fun :D
 

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Check the the radiator feels evenly warm across its whole area. Vapour from the dipstick tube is nothing to worry about (unless its pouring out!).
I'm thinking that maybe the impeller has come off the water pump or the rad is blocked.
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
Hi,

Some more info for you fault finders out there!

Fan works as it should.

The radiator inlet and outlet - which one is which? I'm guessing they are the thick rubber tubes to the right of the engine. The top one was boiling hot, the bottom one seems cold. Radiator also seems cold.

I don't seem to be losing coolant. So does this smell of blockage, duff radiator or waterpump?
 
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It is possible the thermostat is jammed shut .it could be a combination of things?
take the expansion cap off when its cooled down! Then start it and rev it gently and see if you can see any signs of water movement or signs of air bubbling up when you stop reving it.
What temp did you have on the gauge when the top pipe was hot and had the fan come on ?
 

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OK....

Top hose is the outlet from the engine, bottom hose is the return hose from the rad. You'd expect the top hose to be hot, and the bottom hose to be cooler, - not stone cold, but certainly cooler than the top. You'd expect these hoses to be pretty firm with the engine hot, and squishy with the engine cold.

The engine over heats under load, and doesn't overheat when idling. Idling actually produces far less heat - so the problem is not the ability to shed heat at all, it is the amount of heat you can shed. The fact that the bottom hose is cold, suggests a circulation issue.

The things that can go wrong:

- The rad can lose all its fins and be less effective - in this case, both hoses would be hot. Everything is moving properly, but the radiator isn't doing its job. Doesn't sound like your problem.

- The pump can be knackered - so not pumping. This fits your symptoms. A small amount of water is getting to the radiator, it is fully cooled, but it is not enough to cool a hard running engine.

- Air bubbles - could be the cause of the pumps inability to pump.

- Blockage in the rad or thermostat - again matches your symptoms.

So - drain and refill so that there are no air bubbles (search on here for the method, I think there is a bleed screw on the rad and the heater needs to be on hot).

If not cured, then suspect pump or blockage - so either the rad is crudded up, or the thermostat is b0rked - but they normally fail open rather than closed.

The other potential issue is a duff gauge, but your description suggests it is working OK, and that there is a real problem in there.

Be careful driving it - the heads don't like overheating, and that will make the problem a lot worse (expensive....)
 
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Yes agree I was trying to work out what was going on it does sound like more than one thing :confused:
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I think it is starting to look like the pump.

I had the engine running with the expansion tank cap off. No sign of bubbles after revving - in fact the water doesn't show any movement. I did get movement if I squish the inlet and outlet tubes - not sure if that is a great indicator of no blockage or not.....

What kind of money am I talking for a waterpump change - cambelt too would be logical!

Is it worth buying the parts myself? Seen a seller on ebay who does the pump, cambelt, tensioners etc for just over £100. What kind of labour fee?
 

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I've just driven back from having my cambelt and water pump done after near identical symptoms apart from mine only started to rise after 50mph when the engines under load.
Mine is now back to solid 90. Not saying its the same as yours but definitely a possibility.
Old impeller was just spinning freely on its shaft.
 
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Think the average indie labour is about £250 - £300 ?
You can do it your self but unless you can borrow the tools you can add another £120 for those maybe a bit less so might be worth asking AL for a price. sounds like you might need a thermostat just to be on the safe side. £30 on ebay
 
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Just done mine on a 2.0 but had the engine out at the time which made it loads easier but still needed the tools . Cam locks, TDC gauge and holder,cambelt tensioner tool cam wheel pulley holder.
Also is the variator ok?
 
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