Alfa Romeo Forum banner

1 - 9 of 9 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
186 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
A couple of years after doing the left outer CV joint , it now is high time for the right one.

As there is the intermediate support bearing on the way, I understand that the whole shaft cannot be easily removed as on the left side, so I tested my luck and tried to carry out the job with the driveshaft still attached.

I am now stuck at the point of having to remove the CV joint from the shaft itself. The circlip is past the groove (was found so once I removed the boot & cleared the grease... strange) but no matter what I try in the limited space the CV joint will not move at all.



Soooo, I am toying with the idea of playing heavy metal with it and using an angle grinder to cut the CV joint off. :angry:

Has anyone come up with a better way to do this?

Thanks
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,458 Posts
If the circlip is removed it should just slide off the splines with a heavy tap.. quick questions ... though? I don't think you can get replacement outer joints so easier to remove whole shaft. It splits inside by undoing 8 bolts and it will all come out.. unless getting manufactured need to replace whole shaft.. on offer at https://www.partsworld-uk.com/colle...e-parts/products/driveshaft-147-156-gt-3-2-v6

last one i bought cost me 330 trade
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,564 Posts
I like the heavy metal and angle grinder approach. I tend not to get mad at Alfas though.

I doubt even a GKN (very good quality) outer joint would cost more than £100. There are cheaper alternatives like Shaftec which would probably be £30 cheaper.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,564 Posts
A very fine cutting disc should allow a single slit to release the pressure. You may have to cut a vee in the casing and cage first.
Be careful and take time.

I like to put the new grease down the shaft hole in the new joint. Fitting it together forces the grease through and the new joint is automatically lubricated.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,458 Posts
I like the heavy metal and angle grinder approach. I tend not to get mad at Alfas though.

I doubt even a GKN (very good quality) outer joint would cost more than £100. There are cheaper alternatives like Shaftec which would probably be £30 cheaper.
The ones i have are GKN but a special and i havent been able to find them anywhere. every one you order says 3.2 but it isnt its 2.5 and wrong. shafttec will refurbish but the whole shaft has been the only way to get one from alfa until the above..

Alfa stopped doing outer joints and only supply whole shafts about two years ago ... so i would be wary of cutting unless you have spares
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
186 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
If the circlip is removed it should just slide off the splines with a heavy tap.. quick questions ... though? I don't think you can get replacement outer joints so easier to remove whole shaft. It splits inside by undoing 8 bolts and it will all come out.. unless getting manufactured need to replace whole shaft.. on offer at https://www.partsworld-uk.com/colle...e-parts/products/driveshaft-147-156-gt-3-2-v6

last one i bought cost me 330 trade
Tried that but difficult/impossible to apply sufficiently heavy taps.

Car is 2.5, I am using GTA upright (+ steering rack + brakes) but 2.5 shafts so no problem getting the CV itself. When I tried to remove the inner CV joint one the other side 3 years ago the 8 hex bolts would not come out and eLearn says 'The bolts securing the front half shafts, intermediate half shaft/differential inner half shaft side, have been treated with Eslok type locking compound; therefore every time they are removed they must be replaced.' so I am reluctant to try this as i have neither hope of getting them loose nor spare bolts and car has to get me to work on Monday.

Paying more attention to eLearn I think that the 2 shafts assembly may come out of the gearbox if I undo the 3 bolts that hold the inner one to the bearing housing. I will have a look at this tomorrow morning but I doubt they will be accessible.


A very fine cutting disc should allow a single slit to release the pressure. You may have to cut a vee in the casing and cage first.
Be careful and take time.

I like to put the new grease down the shaft hole in the new joint. Fitting it together forces the grease through and the new joint is automatically lubricated.
A very fine cutting disk looks the way forward. It's going to be a fun morning, especially with all the grease in the way ...

(fire extinguisher at hand ... :silly:)

Thanks Maxi & Fruity
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,564 Posts
Be careful not to cut the shaft. You could cut a slit almost to the shaft and finish it with a chisel to split it.

I'm fitting a Pro Kit to the TS tomorrow and the exhaust manifold developed a crack so a little welding with a Phil Weeks MIG should sort it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,564 Posts
I never have replaced driveshaft bolts. There is thread lock on them but I just clean it off. Never had any issues.

If they are stuck, a pair of Vise/Mole grips on the outside as well as the Allen bit spreads the load so it unwinds.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
186 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
all done:



once the outer shell and cage were out of the way and the end of the shaft exposed, an extractor worked like a charm:



I have a nice paperweight & 6 steel balls to play with too :silly:



only casualty a gardening glove and my skin as the sparks burned through the former ...

on to assembly now ...
 
1 - 9 of 9 Posts
Top