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Discussion Starter #1
Still have this electrics issue where for no reason I lose everything.
I've had this on 5 occasions now, I'm driving along nicely then lose all electrics, the only common thing I can think of is its after a decent run, or maybe narrow it down a bit, its on the return journey of a decent run.
I took her down to Autolusso again Saturday morning and Laurence had the computer on it but the fault he had in mind (a steering lock ECU) didn't show up, no fault showed up.
On the way back on M27 just a couple of miles from home the electrics went out again, the radio came back as soon as I turned it on again but all else was out, windows, dials, indicators, lights etc.
I had 5 junctions to get home and peeps must have thought I was a right knobber with no brake lights and no indicators, couldn't do hand signals as the windows wouldn't open.
Anyway, I get back on the drive, turn engine off and the key locks in the dash as it does with this fault, I leave it for 20 minutes, come out and starts fine, all back to normal.

I know Laurence is stumped with this one but saturday he suggested I buy a new battery, the old one looks original but shows no signs of any weakness at all, starts first push every time and for most of my driving its just 3 miles to work then back again so I would expect at least of cough or two with short journeys and cold mornings if the thing was suspect.
Its strange that the fault arises when the car is warm, is it possible that an old battery could take too much charge and cause a spike enough to knock out the ECUs ? As soon as the ECUs reset all's good again.

I think I'll take Autolusso's advice and go for a new battery as its probably the cheapest next option but I'm not sure what's the best to go for, I've had Varta F21, Exide Premium 115TE, the Chinese one starts with a Y but cant think of off hand and Bosch (Autolusso rec).

I have looked at a few searches but thought I'd ask here again so...
Looking for the best battery for the 2.2 Spider 2008 and any suggestions where to get one,
many thanks in advance.

Luckily for my car its an Alfa because anything else would have had a kick up the back bumper and had its picture on the pages of Auto Trader.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Forgot to add, I had the earth cables checked and connections cleaned up two weeks ago while it was in for other bits.
 

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Both earth cables.? The one between the body and engine is under the battery tray and difficult to get to.
It would be worth buying a universal earth cable for a few quid and putting it from the battery earth point on the body to somewhere on the engine, having 2 wont hurt and it eliminates an earth problem.
 

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I had this the other day. After a 200 mile drive, I pulled into M&S garage for some food, went back to car, put key in as the key hole surround was illuminated. Then it clicked and was absolutely dead, no interior lights, nothing.
I was perplexed because I've recently done all the earth connections. I had a quick check and the positive terminal was loose, I tightened it and it all came back to life.

I assume your terminals are tight after cleaning. I hope mine was a one off and not like yours, it's a tad concerning that the car can just die in the middle of the road at night with my kids in there.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Both earth cables.? The one between the body and engine is under the battery tray and difficult to get to.
It would be worth buying a universal earth cable for a few quid and putting it from the battery earth point on the body to somewhere on the engine, having 2 wont hurt and it eliminates an earth problem.
Yes Jon, the top earth is easy but as the car was going in to be under sealed I had Autolusso do the lower earth, they did the top one again for good measure.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I had this the other day. After a 200 mile drive, I pulled into M&S garage for some food, went back to car, put key in as the key hole surround was illuminated. Then it clicked and was absolutely dead, no interior lights, nothing.
I was perplexed because I've recently done all the earth connections. I had a quick check and the positive terminal was loose, I tightened it and it all came back to life.

I assume your terminals are tight after cleaning. I hope mine was a one off and not like yours, it's a tad concerning that the car can just die in the middle of the road at night with my kids in there.
All the terminals appear to be tight all around Al.
A tad concerning, I tell you its more than that when you are doing 80 on the motorway pitch black and peeing down with rain as happened to me on the first occasion, I was just so lucky to be right on an exit slip road and have very little traffic around me.
 

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I think I'll put another earth lead in as John suggested. I don't wanna think about overtaking lane, 80mph, busy, dark, electrics failure. A man could get paranoid enough to put some emergency battery powered indicators in the car, with a massive red switch on the dash:biglaugh:
 
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After doing some research I opted for an Exide battery, it does what it says on the tin. Coming back to the problem I have to agree with comments made, Check, Check and check then clean all earth connections and make sure that all the positive connections are tight. You will be amazed how these things can have a bearing on your problem.
Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I think I'll put another earth lead in as John suggested. I don't wanna think about overtaking lane, 80mph, busy, dark, electrics failure. A man could get paranoid enough to put some emergency battery powered indicators in the car, with a massive red switch on the dash:biglaugh:
You might laugh but that might be an option if I don't get this sorted, a dozen AA batteries should do it lol.
Where would you put an extra earth point ?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
The big deal with this problem is that I don't know if Ive fixed it and won't until it goes again, it's a bit like playing Alfa Russian roulette.
 

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You might laugh but that might be an option if I don't get this sorted, a dozen AA batteries should do it lol.
Where would you put an extra earth point ?
I imagine there's some bits on the engine block that a lead could be hooked onto without any drilling.

I was in a cab the other day on a dArk morning. We went around a bend on a dual carriageway and a transit van had broken down just around the bend, it didn't have hazards on and we were extremely close to smashing Into it. I don't think it would be a bad idea to have an emergency circuit for hazards, we have airbags In case we crash, but not a lot of protection if your electrics go down.

I'm not so good with car electrics, but maybe leads could be tee'd into the indicator wires with a relay, a switch and on its own battery supply? Or maybe instead of running new wiring, a piggy back fuse could be put into the indicator fuse and then run a relay and switchable power supply off this?

Any of you electrics guys think of an install? Ight be handy if it kept the dipped beam running too. Ejector seat install might be handy too.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Ah sorry I should have mentioned the hazards, they did stay powered up, it was all that saved me on that first occasion in the dark, they must have either a separate circuit or be separated from the ECUs.

Bet you all think you know where the hazard light button is don't you ? try to find it in the pitch black at panic stations in lane 3 at 80mph with your missus yelling WTF !
 

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This is what I'm thinking about Hazard kit - Rocker

Looking at the picture of the rear of the unit, I assume one of the leads is the power supply and the other 2 for the + and - to the indicators. Question is, where would be a good place to splice these cables in? And assuming I could use those small security Duracell 12v batteries, how many might be needed for say 20 minutes worth of emergency power?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Had a new battery fitted at Autolusso on Saturday and the bloody electrics conked out again just as I got home, seems to be the 80 mile round trip that is the trigger, its always 40 odd miles out ok, stop off for a bit then lose it at around 40 miles back again.
Something is tripping out the ECUs and then requiring the battery disconnect for 20 minutes reboot.
With no reason for fault showing on the diagnostics we dont know where to go next, I have no confidence in it any more and although if it goes during the day I can still get home ok, I just cant risk going anywhere if I cant be home before dark.
As it stands I have two options and Im really looking for a third;

option one, chuck money at it not knowing what to try next and not knowing if its been fixed until it goes again.
option two, have my arse spanked by webuyanyold****dotcom and some other poor bugger comes on here asking the same questions.
option three, ?????

I just wish something would break and then I could put it in to be told its a £100 or £300 or £500 fix and I can use it properly again.
 

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We're coming up to the best time to sell convertibles...
 

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Sounds like a bit of a nightmare, and worrying if Autolusso can't point you in the right direction.
If it was me I'd be asking around for a recommendation for an auto electrician.
Has to be something to do with the electrics, maybe something overheating and shutting down before it burns out.
 

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Had a new battery fitted at Autolusso on Saturday and the bloody electrics conked out again just as I got home, seems to be the 80 mile round trip that is the trigger, its always 40 odd miles out ok, stop off for a bit then lose it at around 40 miles back again.
Something is tripping out the ECUs and then requiring the battery disconnect for 20 minutes reboot.
With no reason for fault showing on the diagnostics we dont know where to go next, I have no confidence in it any more and although if it goes during the day I can still get home ok, I just cant risk going anywhere if I cant be home before dark.
As it stands I have two options and Im really looking for a third;

option one, chuck money at it not knowing what to try next and not knowing if its been fixed until it goes again.
option two, have my arse spanked by webuyanyold****dotcom and some other poor bugger comes on here asking the same questions.
option three, ?????

I just wish something would break and then I could put it in to be told its a £100 or £300 or £500 fix and I can use it properly again.
Sounds as if it needs real-time logging to monitor what precedes the petit-mal. Or, more old-school, pull fuses for systems that can be done without, and see if it fails or not, then put half back and try again until you can isolate the origin.
 
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