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I have managed to change to passenger side dipped beam bulb. I undid the strap holding the battery at the front just to slide it 10mm to the left. After ages ripping my hand and wrist to bits noticed that the screen wash bottle unclips at the top and swings round 60° anti-clockwise. It's still a pig of a job to do and the clip becomes detached so you have to work blind to get it back on.



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Ah I remember doing mine, think I've still got the scars..mental and physical! I took out that washer bottle neck entirely. Still an utter pig of a job like you said. Next time (hopefully there won't be a next time) I will do as suggested and remove the bumper.
 

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Take the cover off, take a picture of inside & it can be done relatively easily - but yes, move the washer neck out of the way!
 

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Done mine last week for the first time and the washer bottle trick helped alot. Phone fitted perfectly for a photo too. I did at one point loose the bulb and clip down into the lamphousing! In the end I done both mains and the fulls in 30 mins and I probably spent 20 on the first one.
 
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