[Chas147]

It seems that the issue I have had with the Alfa for some time has come back worse, a 2003 147 JTD 8V (115).

It has always been a smooth, swift and reliable runner but it did chuck out more black smoke than I would have liked it to. The air filter, fuel filter and oil have always been changed (I started changing it on 10W40 Diesel oil, and then went to 5W40 Full sythetic on the last two changes). I also had the lower intercooler hose changed for an AutoLusso item (mine had not worn through but it was soft and chafing on an earthing bolt).

However, recently the Motor System Control Failure light started coming on and off with the car losing power (although it could still drive to a degree). Now it will stay on for quite some time (including restarting the car) and with the car having less power.

When it goes into the limp mode the car no longer smokes. It used to smoke with hard throttle (quite a bit of black smoke). TBH for a 115 JTD I was quite surprised at how well it shifted!

As a brief history, I cleaned the EGR out over a year ago. It was sticking slightly, but it was free by the time it was back on the car and it was moving in and out very well indeed. When I was asked to check about the solenoid on the turbo, the actuator arm did move in and out as much as people seemed to think it should upon putting the ignition on.

Before I start spending money on things I don't need to, what do you chaps recommend? I would have got my code reader on the car, but it seems I need a copy of FiatScan?

 

[Tommywho156]

It seems that the issue I have had with the Alfa for some time has come back worse, a 2003 147 JTD 8V (115).

It has always been a smooth, swift and reliable runner but it did chuck out more black smoke than I would have liked it to. The air filter, fuel filter and oil have always been changed (I started changing it on 10W40 Diesel oil, and then went to 5W40 Full sythetic on the last two changes). I also had the lower intercooler hose changed for an AutoLusso item (mine had not worn through but it was soft and chafing on an earthing bolt).

However, recently the Motor System Control Failure light started coming on and off with the car losing power (although it could still drive to a degree). Now it will stay on for quite some time (including restarting the car) and with the car having less power.

When it goes into the limp mode the car no longer smokes. It used to smoke with hard throttle (quite a bit of black smoke). TBH for a 115 JTD I was quite surprised at how well it shifted!

As a brief history, I cleaned the EGR out over a year ago. It was sticking slightly, but it was free by the time it was back on the car and it was moving in and out very well indeed. When I was asked to check about the solenoid on the turbo, the actuator arm did move in and out as much as people seemed to think it should upon putting the ignition on.

Before I start spending money on things I don't need to, what do you chaps recommend? I would have got my code reader on the car, but it seems I need a copy of FiatScan?

I highly recommend you get yourself a copy of Multiecuscan (New name for Fiatscan) www.Multiecuscan.net
Get in touch with Rarebear on here for one of his modified KKL leads or search eBay for "Alfa Romeo diagnostic cables" and buy a set from 'buy-me-from-dan'. You should then be able to access all modules of the cars diagnostics and get better information.

It's worth cleaning your EGR valve again along with the MAP sensor and also check your turbo hoses and induction pipes for splits/cracks etc.

Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App

 

[Cream]

3mm turbo boost control tubes, boost controller, turbo hoses... does it whistle as the turbo comes in ? 1600rpm

 

[hdseven]

if u have had problems with it before start with the egr, then the map sensor close to it, one torx bolt holds it in, bit further left as you looking at egr.
if all thats ok, then think boost problems, or sticking vanes

 

[Chas147]

3mm turbo boost control tubes, boost controller, turbo hoses... does it whistle as the turbo comes in ? 1600rpm

Honestly? It does whilstle slightly. Whereabouts in the engine would the boost hoses be? I guess they would be coming off the wastegate actuator? On the same note, where could I find the boost controller?

I checked the top hose today and all was well. The lower replacement I plan to check at somepoint this week.

Is there any way I can test the MAP or is this something only MultiECUScan can detect as being faulty?

To think I only handed back a friend's VCDS lead to him after using it on a Passat! I may well end up going to get that off him (assuming his HEX-CAN lead is backwards compatible with the KKL type of interfaces (yes, it did cost him a small fortune))

 

[Tommywho156]

If the MAP sensor is dirty you'll soon see when you remove it. Clean it with carb cleaner spray, allow it to dry and refit, if it is to blame you'll see the difference immediately.

Not sure about you friends cable. The correct KKL leads and adapters are only about £20 from eBay.

 

[Chas147]

I cleaned the EGR out today. Whilst it was dirty on the solenoid side, it was free in operation and the solenoid seemed to be in working order (when pushed in, it comes straight out).

I assume the boost controller lives on the back of the engine block with 3 black hard pipes leading up to it? If so, the pipes from beneath the throttle body to the box seemed fine, although I placed them back into their holder.

I shall take a look out for the MAP sensor.

Before ordering a lead from eBay or Rarebear, is there a lead out there where there is only one to do the job of the lot (without switches etc.) or will I always require seperate leads to tackle certain parts of the car?

The smoking is a bit of a joke I must say.

 

[Stixy]

I had the same problem recently, turned out to be the lower turbo hose split. http://www.alfaowner.com/Forum/showthread.php?t=393145

 

[Tommywho156]

I cleaned the EGR out today. Whilst it was dirty on the solenoid side, it was free in operation and the solenoid seemed to be in working order (when pushed in, it comes straight out).

I assume the boost controller lives on the back of the engine block with 3 black hard pipes leading up to it? If so, the pipes from beneath the throttle body to the box seemed fine, although I placed them back into their holder.

I shall take a look out for the MAP sensor.

Before ordering a lead from eBay or Rarebear, is there a lead out there where there is only one to do the job of the lot (without switches etc.) or will I always require seperate leads to tackle certain parts of the car?

The smoking is a bit of a joke I must say.

You'll always need either a switch or separate adapters as different modules require different pin access. I doesn't take more than a couple of seconds to switch/swap though.

 

[Chas147]

Thought I better update this (and have some humble pie...).

I was all set to go out and buy MultiECUScan. Before I did, I thought I would take it to a specialist for him to take a look at.

By this point, it was now pulsing/surging in power at speed with smoke coming out when it built up power. At a certain specialist, he revved it hard where quite literally a mountain of smoke came out of the rear! The culprit? A split top hose. I am sure this was checked, but clearly not enough!

Fast forward a few hours, and I was at home. A new hose (silicon, just like the lower item I changed a while ago), a lighter wallet, and an Italian tune up later, and alas, no smoke at all! Either that hose was always a little iffy or the clips were slightly weak (I changed those this time around), because the car (touchwood!) does not smoke at all! OK it did smoke initially upon leaving my hose, but by the time I had come back it does not smoke on full throttle, under load etc.

When I bought the car, it always used to smoke a little on full throttle. I now wish that I had checked the top hose a little more thoroughly, but that I changed the pair of hoses when I did the lower item!

Ah well...