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Discussion Starter #1
ok, so this is what is proposed by a buddy of mine to do.
Head work, flow, over all and the works: R1800-R2200
Cams 280 Nellis: R1150
Total: R3350
Meaning you'll be getting about 18-20kw extra.
Come on El, doooo eeeet...
Gilias, tell him bru!!!
 

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Over all and the works???? WTF does this mean?

I freakin paid R3900 for a tuner/fixer to put a new headgasket and a water pump on my car and keep it for 11 months while he was doing it. NEVER ever again am I going to leave my car with people...rant over.

What does over all and the works mean? 20kw just from that? Nee I don't believe it, and nogal so cheap?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
This is Cape Town dude, we like take everything easy nad like don't worry about money hey bru :cheese:
But yep, can be done depending on the motors condition...
Why the lack of faith? :)
Send your head down here and I'll charge you R5000 for 7kw :lol: will that make you feel better? :)
Plus the turn around for the CT guys is much short, I mean i had a Giuli here the other day, I only took 3 moths to do the water pump :cheese:
Oh and do you really wane know what and the works means???
 

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yes, tell me what's THE WORKS lol.

No, i know in CPT, makes me miss my 2nd home, the car scene is quite competitive..lots of GOOD backyard makkies who KNOW how to flow and port heads. People build complete showcars from their backyards!

Mitchel's Plain car scene ftw!
 

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ok, so this is what is proposed by a buddy of mine to do.
Head work, flow, over all and the works: R1800-R2200
Cams 280 Nellis: R1150
Total: R3350
Meaning you'll be getting about 18-20kw extra.
Come on El, doooo eeeet...
Gilias, tell him bru!!!
Thanks dude, but my head is already seriously worked (gasflowed, ported, etc.) and I already have some nice cams in! At this point only bigger carbs and cams will give more NA power, but then you lose drivability.
Cams for R1150 - how?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I just typed out a *** long reply and the server went down here deleting my message :mad:
Sorry guilias not gonna retype, but mainly latchcaps and tappets...
 

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20kw is massively optomistic, must be a magic dyno if it gives u that
 

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True - you need a lot of headwork AND bottom end work AND ancillary modifications to get 20kw extra. In the beginning I'd say you pay more than R1000 per NA kw and after that the marginal cost per kw starts increasing dramatically.
 

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On my 159i (okay doesn't have carbs and needed to be chipped but no-one could to do it) I had the following done:

Gasflowed, ported, polished cylinder heads
Reduced valve stems
3 angle valve cut
Swirled inlet valves
Chamfered exhaust valves
272 degree 10.5mm lift cams (@ .050")
port-matched intake and exhaust manifolds
Free-flow 57mm exhaust
Cone air filter
Higher fuel pressure
Valve clearances adjusted to 0.25mm intake and 0.20 exhaust...

At the same time I fitted new 10:1 pistons (Std 159i items), rings and liners, and the bearings (after approx. 400000km the big-ends and mains were still within new spec and the journals didn't even need a cleaning!) were replaced with standard items.

Result:
It felt like I got around 10kW more... The biggest difference was through the filter, exhaust and fuel pressure. I could still adjust fuel mixture to within limits (0.5% to 1% CO) and it idled wildly. Then I reduced the overlap to improve driveability and I lost around 2 to 3kW...

I know more was possible with some electronic tuning on a rolling road, but alas, no-one knew what to do?

In the good old days with bad leaded fuel, the exhaust ran very light grey, to light brick red at high speed! I never knew why it ran brick red. And the weirdest improvement after all these mods was the improvement in fuel economy!:confused:
 

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I have the same as Ian and a shaved head with hi-comp pistons, lightened and balanced rotating parts and I don't think I got 20kw. I don't really care about dyno measurements that much, but I could definitely feel a difference in overtaking confidence. She gets to 180 gps reasonably quickly with more to go and that's all the power I need in a 38 year old street car.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Mmmm.....
Ok, maybe I'm looking for figures that aren't there, but one thing I do know, with my current setup I've done 235km (gps) down the n1 at 5900rpm. And she will rev clean to 7000rpm(not sure if she's making any power there :cheese: but still. I'm planning on doing that in a few months as I have another pressing issue at hand finanically, but once I'm ready we can see, hey if I get my goal of 130kw, frost will owe me a bottle of johnny blue ;) if not...
Well I'll buy you a bottle of black label :cheese::cheese::cheese:
 

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Bud, sorry to be blunt but I have to call BS. I've run to 6.4k on the same 4.1:1 ratios and I know that I wasn't close to 235. Unless your car is seriously, seriously modified and lightened with wings and spoilers with different gearing and race fuel (top of the line racecar), I would suggest you take your gps back to where you bought it.
 
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I have to agree. To get 20kw extra on a 2L nord will probably means 45mm carbs as well. This is very optimistic. And beware there are some really crappy cut cams out there floating around secondhand, that probably reduces power from standard cams.
From all the hard work on my Giulietta 2L I have no more than 10-13 kw extra.
 

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I'd say a standard 2l 116 gtv will run to gps 185-190kph max if all the variables are right. I'm not even sure an 80s 3.0gtv6 will see gps 235kph on a good day at the coast and that car had about 128kw. The only way to get more power relatively cheaply out of a 2l (less than R50k) is to get a ts motor and modify it, drop in an sr20det or turbo the nord motor.
I was watching some of Kevin's videos on youtube yesterday and I must say turboing is where it's at. I am really amazed at how far the GP guys are in terms of modifying the old cars.
 
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Ja, look, about 10 years ago I was contemplating either a GTV6 or turbo mod to the Giulietta. Back then, Alpine quoted me about R22k for more or less the same kind of power.
So I took it to Mastercams, who did the billets, flow etc etc. for R7k. And though I did feel good power, I'd say if I got 7kw, it was a lot. The engine did feel much stronger though. So, for that price... eish.
 

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I would suggest you take your gps back to where you bought it.
MPH=RPM/Gear ratio x Wheel dia in inches/336

=5900/(4.1x0.83) x 23/336

=118.6 MPH =189.8 km/h

That is 32km/1000 RPM
7000 RPM will give you 225 km/h
 

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My rev counter reads about 3100 to 3200 at gps 100kph in 5th. I've measured it up to gps 186kph when I was using the gps, but not sure what the revs were then as I wasn't watching. 235 at 5.9k is impossible unless you have a diff ratio in the mid 3's or a top gear ratio of low 0.7s.
 

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Haven't used racechrono in a while. Does it give one PC-friendly outputs, Ian?
 

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My rev counter reads about 3100 to 3200 at gps 100kph in 5th. I've measured it up to gps 186kph when I was using the gps, but not sure what the revs were then as I wasn't watching. 235 at 5.9k is impossible unless you have a diff ratio in the mid 3's or a top gear ratio of low 0.7s.
You also do 32 km/1000 RPM in 5th, like my calculation
6000 RPM will give you 192 km/h
7000 RPM will give you 225 km/h

235 km/h is possible down a mine shaft!
 
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