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If you mean there is no permanent live then mine is the same, have to have the ignition on to work it.

I'm no expert with stereo's so just put up with it.

wrinx
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Actually Wrinx, I mean exactly the opposite - I've got 2 permenant lives, red and yellow. eek!

Yellow ought to be a switched live, and go off when the ignition is off. But it dosen't. :(

I've had a look at the circuit diagram, and the stereo switched live should be on the same circuit as the electric windows. But they work as expected (they only work when the ignition is on) so I don't know whats up. :confused:
 
A

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Have you checked to see what voltage you are getting with the ignition off?

The reason I ask is that my switched live became constant also last year. when I checked I discovered that I was getting 9 volts on the switched one when the ignition was off. It turned out to be a dodgy fuse box in my case, but it could just as easily be two wires that have rubbed through on a sharp edge and are causing a short. Even with only 9v the radio will still come on.
 
B

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Same here, no switched live, I can run mine with the ignition off or on, can't remember which wires went where though, at the moment!

I'll have a look if you want?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Colin - No, I haven't checked the voltage, but I will. To be honest, I'd have thought the the cable would have shorted out on the chassis if it had chafed through, but it's worth a look.

Bob - If it's not too much of a pain, it would be interesting to know what wiring you've got.

Does anyone have a stereo that DOES work correctly? That means that the stereo goes off when the ignition is switched off and that it retains settings like volume levels and radio pre-sets.
 

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i remember reading on service updates some cars had live for stereo changed who had the aircon as the aircon was staying on after shutdown of engine this was a dealer memo to do if cust complained ill look later on to see what exact cars it was refering to but my car can have stereo on without ignition on and will remember stations etc, the live was origiannally in with aircon according to the service update.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Nice one, Fletch! :D

I've found the Service News item you refer to, it's number 5505A403GG, posted 06.96 and is called Dashboard Wiring.

It describes a modification to the dashboard wiring that changes the stereo from key-operated to permenantly on. It mentions that this change has been implemented at the factory, and since my 16V was made about a month later I would assume that it has been modified in this way.

I'll see if I can undo the change and get the radio working correctly. Thanks, matey! :D
 
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If you need to find a switched and a constant +ve 12v then by far the easiest way to go is to go digging at the switch.

Pull the steering wheel cowl off gently, Oh take the screws out first!

Then you will find I think 4 dirty great wires coming out of the back of the ignition switch.

One is going to be red and a full time positive, and another which should be yellow, or yellow with a black strip will be switched positive. (Check using a multimeter. You can just puch through the insulation)

The best way to tap into these for your purposes is to remove a little bit of the insulation from the wire, gently pull the copper strands into two parts and push a new take off wire between them, then wrap the long end of the bared new wire around the old thick wire, solder in place and insuate thoroughly. This gives a perfectly good take off point for car stereo needs, and as long as the stereo doesn't then provide power for additonal amplifiers, etc you won't overload it. Remember to fuse the new take off wires at source, as close as possible to the take off point.

Hope this is of use

Andy
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks Andy :) , but I think we've got it sussed.

The factory mod mentioned in the Service News item appears to instruct dealers to remove and insulate the switched live cable from the back of the stereo's DIN connector and link it's pin to permenant live.

This would also explain why the windows etc still work as expected, despite being on the same switched circuit as the stereo.

I imagine if I probed around (oo-err!) by the ignition switch, I'd find everything working as expected there too.
 
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Andy, NO!!! The last thing anyone should contemplate doing is breaking into the wires at the ignition switch.

The 'correct' (read 'safe' and 'easier' and 'normal') way to do it is identify an ignition-switched circuit at the fuse box (e.g. electric windows, heater fan, heater rear window, mirrors, etc etc) and then take a feed off AFTER the fuse box.

If you don't know which side is which, identify your circuit and then take the fuse out. The side that goes 'dead' is the fused side and that is the one to use. The one that stays live isn't protected by the fuse so shouldn't be used.

I've just fitted a new stereo and on my '94 car the yellow wire is ignition-switched (anyone noticed that there isn't an 'accessory' position on the ignition switch on a 155?) which I find a bit of a pain because when I'm working on the car I like to have the stereo on but I'd prefer not to leave the ignition on all the time.

Of course the easy way around this would be to connect both live feeds to the stereo ('battery' and 'ignition' to the 'battery' connection in the loom.

Ian
 
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I've found if I get the key just right the radio (and fan ) runs but the ingnition is off. Anyone else do this or have i got a big (expensive) problem about to happen!
 

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I didn't have a live without the ignition on, but the Sony MD head unit I fitted said to just swap a couple of wires around on the connectors it came with and then the stereo was live all the time
 
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I don't have a switched live. My radio can be on with no key in the ignition. I just try and remember to switch it off when I leave.

Marlon
 
S

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Ian,

Never used this method on an Alfa!

Works a treat on a mini though, what with them not actually having a fuseboard etc.

Agreed, not the safest way to do things, but served the old mini faultlessly for many years.

I would have thought it would have been okay as long as all was fused.

Maybe not though

Ho hum
:(
Andy
 
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The matter of when and how the radio switches can be tough.

However, some stereos like my old Sony CD player have a slide switch somewhere on them which needs to set for ignition switching.

Also, radios like the current Blaupunkt can be turned on independently of the ignition key by pressing the sources button. Then you can leave the unit on with the car keys out. Good for picnics or clearing the garage while using the car as a stereo!

Some wiring looms come with multiple connection possibilities. I recently put a Pioneer unit in a Citroen AX. It had to be altered (using settings from the manual) to work. Then it worked with the ignition as the on/off switch.

Try and find the stereos guide book before blaming the cars wiring. :) :) :)
 
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marlon:
I don't have a switched live. My radio can be on with no key in the ignition. I just try and remember to switch it off when I leave.

Marlon
Same as mine!

daKlone:
Bob - If it's not too much of a pain, it would be interesting to know what wiring you've got
Had a poke around before and it would appear I can't tie the ignition into the switched supply? Both the red and the yellow wires I have are permanent live, but one of them supplies the signal to say the ignition is off, doesn't carry enough power to run the radio though!

I have the red and yellow wires from the radio both connected to the yellow wire from the DIN adaptor.

HTH
 
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Thinking about it, the yellow wire to the DIN block will require very little current to switch the stereo on. The big red wire is the main power cable, which you have. Therefore any switched poitive will do just to tell the stereo that it is time to wake up.

Just a thought :D
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Still haven't solved this problem. I had a look in the back of the DIN connector, and it has 2 red wires in it, one where there should be an Orange (I think) which is the switched live.

There was no sign of modification, so I guess the loom must be different from the one in the diagram I've got.

I guess I'll have to go back to the fusebox and break in with a new cable there. Ho Hum!
 
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