[spankdanny]

2 fuses on auxillary board OK
Services fuse on main board OK

Window motors OK ( connected 12v directly to them)
Swapped n82 unit

Thing is before I took the door card off the driver's side,the passenger window worked but the drivers didn't, I could just hear a click from under the dash. Now nothing. No power to switches. No click

PKR to the rescue?

 

[pkr]

There's another fuse to look at. G310 ( 25A ), like the other two 25A fuses is on the Aux board. This supplies the actual switches.

If it looks intact, check it has power with the ignition ON.

If you don't have power at that fuse with the ignition on, do the test I suggested in the other thread - try popping the boot & fuel cap with the ignition ON. If they pop, you also have an issue with the cut-off relay.

http://www.alfaowner.com/Forum/alfa...ider-passenger-window-power.html#post14951490

 

[spankdanny]

Oh PKR you beat me to it. Found G310 (brown holder) blown. 7.5 a fuse in it tho. Replaced with same? size, swapped N82 and all working. I wonder, have you ever repaired N82. Had a look at circuit board and can't see anything amiss. What makes the clicking noise?

 

[pkr]

That's curious. Manual says 25A in a white holder. Brown holder would be correct I think for 7.5A. The only 7.5A on the Aux bracket is for the rear fogs! Weird. Glad it's good now though.

I've had a good look at the P1 N82 and to some extent the Autodrop P2/P3 N82. I've identified most of the functionality of the P1 N82 and it would be fairly repairable as most of the components are off the shelf parts. All the stuff that's likely to fail are even through hole components ( easy peasy to fix .

The only thing that would be nearly impossible to fix would be the micro which is proprietary to the board manufacturer ( Procond Elettronica ). I seem to recall that Procond Elettronica is now owned by Magnetti Marelli ( though that may not be accurate ).

The clicking noise is the relay(s). There are three relays in the N82 - two for the windows and the third is for the central locking . If you look at the two relays ( made by NEC ) by the larger white connector, you'll see two metal hoops. Those are the current sense shunts that are use to determine if the motor has stalled ( normally at the top & bottom of travel but also when the window encounters a child's neck or similar ).

 

[spankdanny]

My aux bracket has 2 white, 2 brown, 1 green & 1 red. White's were good. 1 brown blown. Wiring diagram says 25A too. Will try 25A and original n82 and see what happens. Doesn't help manual is for left hand drive so things aren't in the place their meant to be in a right hooker.

 

[pkr]

You should have a manual for RHD ( Repair Instructions RHD1.pdf ) where it shows stuff relevant to driving on the correct side

I very rarely look at the RHD manual though.

I'll have a look at my aux bracket tomorrow to see what I have.

It is possible I suppose that some of the P2 mods were brought in early for your 1998 P1. On 1998 MY, the window switches are fed from one of the two main 25A fuses.

 

[spankdanny]

So thought swapping n82 moduleshad fixed it. Try to put the drivers window down today and click! More investigating and turns out to be the connector between door and door frame. Intermittent connection on one of the pins. Managed to feed a strand of copper wire into the socket so pin makes a good contact again. Hey presto. Bonus is I still have a spare working n82. I still hate car electrics. Give me a good old fashioned handle any day.

 

[alfapash]

You fixed it so life is good and thank goodness we have pkr:yes:

 

[pkr]

Sorry for the delay, busy couple of days.

I checked out my car and it would seem that the fuse G310 is another workshop manual error. G310 is not present on my car either.

 

[spankdanny]

Did you get my message about the puddle lights Peter?

 

[pkr]

Did you get my message about the puddle lights Peter?

Yes thank you. I'd've replied last night but my password got reset and the forum didn't want to play ball with the reset sequence. Fixed it this morning.

There's no hurry for the lights. This project of mine has been through various iterations for about 2 years now. A little while longer will not make any difference!

Thanks.

 

[alexGS]

That's curious. Manual says 25A in a white holder. Brown holder would be correct I think for 7.5A. The only 7.5A on the Aux bracket is for the rear fogs! Weird. Glad it's good now though.

I haven't checked through the diagram properly, but I wouldn't put it past Alfa Romeo to have implemented a wiring error that saw full window current passing though a 7.5A fuse I dimly remember some other situation where high-current fuses were unbelievably installed downstream of a low-current fuse.

Those are the current sense shunts that are use to determine if the motor has stalled ( normally at the top & bottom of travel but also when the window encounters a child's neck or similar ).

Oh no - a picture I'm going to have in my head all day now, lol :devious:

-Alex