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Discussion Starter #1
Anyone any idea what the last MOT tester wa talking about when he said they were missing off front suspension?

And if so, any links to buying a pair?

Also how hard to tighten handbrake cable on Alfa 916 1995 reg?

Could my local garage man do it?

TIA
 

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Anyone any idea what the last MOT tester wa talking about when he said they were missing off front suspension?

And if so, any links to buying a pair?

Also how hard to tighten handbrake cable on Alfa 916 1995 reg?

Could my local garage man do it?

TIA
Dust covers for front shocks available from Alfa Workshop £8.00 each
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Just looked again - as an advisory, it says offside and nearside "front lower suspension arm ball joint dust cover deteriorated, but preventing the ingress of dirt" and "parking brake efficiency just met" (16%), "parking brake little reserve travel" "requires adjustment or repair" !

Thanks guys - in advance !
 

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Dust covers or gaitors are cheap but you have to take the struts out and then dissemble the spring to fit them.They are not usually worried about them at MOT so only worth replacing when doing front strut change.

Handbrake is just release the cables from the calipers, make sure the lever arms are back against the stops and then press the brake pedal hard about 20 times. Reconnect cables and adjust at handbrake lever. This assumes that everything is working OK to begin with.
 

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... offside and nearside "front lower suspension arm ball joint dust cover deteriorated, but preventing the ingress of dirt"!
That's the ball joint attaching the lower suspension arm to the wheel upright. The good news is that new suspension arms are relatively cheap and someone who knows what he's doing should be able to change them quite quickly.

The handbrake probably needs some attention.


Look at the rear brake calipers and ensure you have the two return springs ( 1 each caliper ) that pulls the handbrake actuator back to it's rest stop. If you don't have the springs,you can search on here for lambretta. You can see the spring in this photo -

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/301875159799?clk_rvr_id=990914371390&rmvSB=true

( just above the 'PS' in the QPS logo ).

With the springs in place, slacken off the handbrake completely ( there an adjuster nut under the handbrake lever ) and then go through the handbrake adjustment routine :

Unclip the handbrake cables at the rear calipers and pump the brake pedal ( 10 times it says in the manual ) to ensure the pad is fully in contact with the disc. This will reset the handbrake mechanism.

Check the handrake actuator lever. It should be be fully against it's stop. Reattach the handbrake cables, pull the handbrake lever up 3 clicks and start tightening the adjuster ( at this point the wheel needs to be on the car and off the ground and it's better if both wheels are off the ground so you can check there's no imbalance between the two sides ).

Try turning the wheel by hand. If it turns freely, keep tightening the adjuster and testing the wheels. You should keep going until you can no longer rotate the wheels by hand. Release the lever and check the wheels turn freely.

Go and park on a 16% or steeper hill. If it holds the car and the lever doesn't pull more than about 5 or 6 clicks, you should be OK for the MOT.
 

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Park on a steepish hill, if the handbrake holds the car I wouldn't worry. They tend to work better in real use than in the rolling test at the MOT.
 

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Just looked again - as an advisory, it says offside and nearside "front lower suspension arm ball joint dust cover deteriorated, but preventing the ingress of dirt" and "parking brake efficiency just met" (16%), "parking brake little reserve travel" "requires adjustment or repair" !

Thanks guys - in advance !
Gunna give these a shot:- UNIVERSAL SPLIT BALL JOINT TRACK ROD END RUBBER BOOT GAITER KIT FITS ALL CARS.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/171851510749?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

haven't fitted them yet, but should save a heap of time, avoid grease on the glued joint.
Nothings ever that easy right?
 

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Gunna give these a shot:- UNIVERSAL SPLIT BALL JOINT TRACK ROD END RUBBER BOOT GAITER KIT FITS ALL CARS.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/171851510749?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

haven't fitted them yet, but should save a heap of time, avoid grease on the glued joint.
Nothings ever that easy right?
Ive tried those and they didnt last very long at all, especially with grease hitting the joint all the time when the car is moving. Garage quoted me £100 to fit a £4.00 part so I invested in one of these

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SEALEY-BS...753618?hash=item43a87fc112:g:re8AAOSwpRRWpdjf

Paid for itself with one repair and no doubt will come in handy in the future.
 

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CV boots - would this work?

I invested in one of these:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SEALEY-BS...753618?hash=item43a87fc112:g:re8AAOSwpRRWpdjf

Paid for itself with one repair and no doubt will come in handy in the future.
Interesting: I need to change both CV boots on one driveshaft.

Does using the Sealey tool mean I could do it this way:

1) Remove nuts & bolts from inner driveshaft joint flange and let the drive shaft drop (?release upright retaining bolts to pivot hub outwards to make more space?)

2) Remove existing boots

3) Fit outer CV joint boot first, by attaching it to the Sealey device in reverse (ie narrow end first) - over the inner joint and then sliding it up the shaft

4) Fit inner boot

If this would work, then there is no need to undo the driveshaft retaining nut at the hub, and no need to dismantle the inner joint... (ie, you can replace the boots with the driveshaft more-or-less in situ).

Would that work? If so - the tool is well worth the price!

Thoughts, everyone?
 

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If I read you plan correctly you want to leave the inner part of the driveshaft connected to the diff and the outer connected to the hub and seperate the flange connecting the two? You might find if you gotten this far its easier to just remove the entire driveshaft. the inner just pops out of the diff with a bit of levering but you will lose the gearbox oil and careful you don't damage the diff seal). You will need the correct thin walled socket and an impact wrench to get the hub nut off (I used an electric Clarke one about £60)

If you do decide to go with your plan best of luck the only comments I would make is make sure you use new nylocs when you refit the flange (fine pitched, not a standard thread) and re your point 3 you wont be able to stretch the boot using the tool with the narrow bit in first. Instead you could try turning the boot inside out, expanding it with the sealy tool and then rolling it over the inner flange. It will also help if you soften the boot by soaking in hot water before fitting it.
 
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