Hi Guys fitted new radiator today,everything went well,it was a lot easier to fit than taking the old rotten one out.I know very little about mechanics so the question is this,if the thermostat is stuck in the closed position will this cause the coolant to boil over through the expansion tank.the reason I think it is stuck is 1. it is boiling over and 2.the top hose is staying cold which to me would suggest that no coolant is flowing into the radiator, does this sound likely?
New Rad Fitted But......
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http://www.alfaowner.com/Forum/alfa-164-and-166/292908-n-s-f-top-ball-joint.html#post4316891
There's a hole in amh bucket deer eshy deer eshy.:lol:
Pomeo
oooh water boiled over...........NOT a good sign! Is the car using a lot of water, whats the oil like now, after a run?
Its a self bleeding system so might use a little water the first 100miles so keep an EYE on it..........over heat and over boil sound way to Da-Ja Vu - what ever it is
Its a self bleeding system so might use a little water the first 100miles so keep an EYE on it..........over heat and over boil sound way to Da-Ja Vu - what ever it is
the oil looks fine and there does not seem to be any steam from the exhaust or mayo on the oil cap. Temp seems fine when doing 50 -70 but goes up at slower speeds so pulled over to let it cool down but have not used it 5 days now, too scared lol,mechanic was supposed to come look at it tonight but didnt show.I think I could maybe do the pump myself but not so sure about stripping the head down although wouldnt mind giving it a go, I mean how hard can it be ha ha.
DOOOOOOOOO NOTTT USE!!!!!!!!! If it hits red you will need a new head gasket!
OK, water pump means cambelt change and idler.......and timing, rad is easy to fit, if you can time a 166 you can do any job on a 166! Its hard....lol....
hum, temp goes up at slower speeds..
Rad - Changed
Thermo - Could be - normally would keep the engine cold
water pump, unless its gone, as revs rise the temp will too.......if fully gone, it might be the air that keeping the engine cool.
OK, water pump means cambelt change and idler.......and timing, rad is easy to fit, if you can time a 166 you can do any job on a 166! Its hard....lol....
hum, temp goes up at slower speeds..
Rad - Changed
Thermo - Could be - normally would keep the engine cold
water pump, unless its gone, as revs rise the temp will too.......if fully gone, it might be the air that keeping the engine cool.
Thanks for that, I have changed the stat so how would I know if pump is working or is it just a process of elimination.If I do the pump and that does not solve the problem does it mean the belt etc would have to be taken back off to strip the heads to do the gasket and possibly a skim.Would I be better to do it all in one go if that is the case.Surely the pump impaler has to be cracked after 96000 dont you think.
ok, lets to a head gasket test first thing.........from cold, FILL the water right to the very top, leave the cap off.
Turn the engine on and just watch the water (taking care), if your water has bubbles head gasket has prob gone, when it warms up, if it starts to boil over - head is gone..
If this is the case, do it as one job.
Turn the engine on and just watch the water (taking care), if your water has bubbles head gasket has prob gone, when it warms up, if it starts to boil over - head is gone..
If this is the case, do it as one job.
Is the fan cutting in?
Hopefully someone will be able to tell us both how this is supposed to work. I noticed my fan cut in this morning just after I started it (something not right me thinks) If yours isn't working might be the cause of low speed over heating.
Cheers
Jonathan
Hopefully someone will be able to tell us both how this is supposed to work. I noticed my fan cut in this morning just after I started it (something not right me thinks) If yours isn't working might be the cause of low speed over heating.
Cheers
Jonathan
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Re Bleed radiator
Hi, i changed my rad a few weeks back, you have to bleed the system as follows, on the left hand top side of the rad there is a bleed plug,start engine from cold keep header tank cap on then undo bleed plug, once you have a constant flow of coolant tighten plug back up.
Hi, i changed my rad a few weeks back, you have to bleed the system as follows, on the left hand top side of the rad there is a bleed plug,start engine from cold keep header tank cap on then undo bleed plug, once you have a constant flow of coolant tighten plug back up.
Ok guys thanks for everyones help,I will look at it tomorrow but I think that it will probably be the head has gone,if this is the case how do I know if the heads need to be skimmed and would both have to be done or will it be blatantly obvious.
Youll need to get them done, it also means stripping down the heads too! Beware - everything needs to go back how it came off - i.e same tapped in the same place ideally in the correct direction........its no job for the faint hearted or amateur - except if your an idiot like me!
Lol sorry its taking me so long to reply but my Pc keeps crashing.I will have to give it a bit of thought but I cant really afford to put it into a garage to get sorted so me thinks I will have to do it myself,is there a DIY SOS for 166 owners lol. Cheers.
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How do u know its stuck closed? even if it is it should open at a set temp, best way to do it is to connect it all up and if the temp inside the car goes above 91 switch it off to be safe. Did you mix coolants in the system at all? should only run paraflu up.
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